Belgium and Germany 2024
Having had the motorhome MOT’d and serviced we were ready for the off. MOT passed with no advisories and everything green on the health check.
Wednesday 17th April Spent the morning packing the motorhome before setting off to Folkestone. Trouble free journey via M11, M45 and M20.
We had been booked on a campsite at Folkestone Warren but this had closed due to landslides following the very wet winter. Instead we stayed at a BritStop at Capel le Ferne – an abandoned WWII battery site which was being renovated.
We spent the evening with our eldest daughter and her partner.
Thursday 18th April
A wet and stormy night.
Apart from one coach party and a few lorries, the ferry was almost empty. After a smooth crossing we headed to Arques. We stocked up with food and headed to the aire beside the fishing lake for the night.
Friday 19th April
Heavy rain overnight. By the time we set off it had cleared up and was dry although still overcast. However, as the morning progressed the weather worsened. We had a very slow journey as a result of very heavy traffic and torrential rain.
We had decided we would spent some time in Belgium, a country we often drove through but didn’t really know. Our intention was to visit the barge lift and inclined plane on the Canal du Centre in Wallonia, the site of the Battle of Waterloo and the Ardennes.
The rain stopped long enough for us to look round the Barge Lift at Strépy-Thieu. Completed in 2002 the hydraulic lift raises barges over 73 metres making it the second largest boat lift in the world. A school party were there when we arrived but after they left we were the only ones there.
Before settling for the night we drove a short distance to view one of the old boat lifts on the original canal.
Stayed overnight on the barge lift car park
Wednesday 17th April Spent the morning packing the motorhome before setting off to Folkestone. Trouble free journey via M11, M45 and M20.
We had been booked on a campsite at Folkestone Warren but this had closed due to landslides following the very wet winter. Instead we stayed at a BritStop at Capel le Ferne – an abandoned WWII battery site which was being renovated.
We spent the evening with our eldest daughter and her partner.
Thursday 18th April
A wet and stormy night.
Apart from one coach party and a few lorries, the ferry was almost empty. After a smooth crossing we headed to Arques. We stocked up with food and headed to the aire beside the fishing lake for the night.
Friday 19th April
Heavy rain overnight. By the time we set off it had cleared up and was dry although still overcast. However, as the morning progressed the weather worsened. We had a very slow journey as a result of very heavy traffic and torrential rain.
We had decided we would spent some time in Belgium, a country we often drove through but didn’t really know. Our intention was to visit the barge lift and inclined plane on the Canal du Centre in Wallonia, the site of the Battle of Waterloo and the Ardennes.
The rain stopped long enough for us to look round the Barge Lift at Strépy-Thieu. Completed in 2002 the hydraulic lift raises barges over 73 metres making it the second largest boat lift in the world. A school party were there when we arrived but after they left we were the only ones there.
Before settling for the night we drove a short distance to view one of the old boat lifts on the original canal.
Stayed overnight on the barge lift car park
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Saturday 20th April
A short drive took us to Ronquières to view the inclined plane. Very wet so we took a few photos and left. There were no other visitors and the visit was described as 2 hours mostly outdoors! We didn’t fancy that in this weather.
Found a shop for some bread and headed for the aire.
A wet and soggy afternoon in a rather dismal car park!
A short drive took us to Ronquières to view the inclined plane. Very wet so we took a few photos and left. There were no other visitors and the visit was described as 2 hours mostly outdoors! We didn’t fancy that in this weather.
Found a shop for some bread and headed for the aire.
A wet and soggy afternoon in a rather dismal car park!
Sunday 21st April
A very cold night with temperatures just above zero, heavy rain and even sleet and snow.
We had planned to visit Waterloo next and then perhaps some walking in the Ardennes but decided that just wasn’t feasible in this weather. We decided to head towards Luxembourg and Germany with the hope of finding better weather. As it was Sunday the roads were quiet with no lorries so we made good progress. By mid-day it was 2°C and snowing.
After stopping in Luxembourg for fuel and lunch we headed to Mettlach in Germany were we stayed overnight. It was sunny when we arrived but the sky looked ominous. Overnight temperature was sub-zero.
Monday 22nd April
We decided to spend the day in Mettlach. In the morning we walked into the town to go to the Tourist Office to pay for the overnight parking for two nights.
Next we drove to Aldi to return the apfelsaft and beer bottles from our previous trip to Germany two years ago. After lunch we walked along the river bank into town and enjoyed an ice cream sitting in the sun.
Overnight at Mettlach.
Tuesday 23rd April
Sub zero temperatures overnight and a heavy frost but the morning dawned bright and clear. We headed towards the Moselle valley, a pretty drive along the Hunsruck High Road before dropping down the steep road to the Moselle valley. By taking this route we avoided the busyness of Trier – always a bottleneck.
The Moselle valley was as beautiful and tranquil as always.
We stopped at the stellplatz in Piesport – it is situated on the banks of the river with views across to the vineyards.
After lunch we walked into the village and strolled back along the river bank.
A very cold night with temperatures just above zero, heavy rain and even sleet and snow.
We had planned to visit Waterloo next and then perhaps some walking in the Ardennes but decided that just wasn’t feasible in this weather. We decided to head towards Luxembourg and Germany with the hope of finding better weather. As it was Sunday the roads were quiet with no lorries so we made good progress. By mid-day it was 2°C and snowing.
After stopping in Luxembourg for fuel and lunch we headed to Mettlach in Germany were we stayed overnight. It was sunny when we arrived but the sky looked ominous. Overnight temperature was sub-zero.
Monday 22nd April
We decided to spend the day in Mettlach. In the morning we walked into the town to go to the Tourist Office to pay for the overnight parking for two nights.
Next we drove to Aldi to return the apfelsaft and beer bottles from our previous trip to Germany two years ago. After lunch we walked along the river bank into town and enjoyed an ice cream sitting in the sun.
Overnight at Mettlach.
Tuesday 23rd April
Sub zero temperatures overnight and a heavy frost but the morning dawned bright and clear. We headed towards the Moselle valley, a pretty drive along the Hunsruck High Road before dropping down the steep road to the Moselle valley. By taking this route we avoided the busyness of Trier – always a bottleneck.
The Moselle valley was as beautiful and tranquil as always.
We stopped at the stellplatz in Piesport – it is situated on the banks of the river with views across to the vineyards.
After lunch we walked into the village and strolled back along the river bank.
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Wednesday 24th April
Today the weather was extremely fickle – sunny with sudden heavy showers. We continued along the Moselle valley.
We were planning to head for Zell where we would park in the stellplatz above the river and walk over the footbridge into the town. One of our favourite imbisses is there and we were keen to have our first bratwurst mit pommies of the trip. However, by the time we got there it was absolutely heaving down, the imbiss was closed and there was no way we were going to walk across an exposed footbridge over the river and into town!
We continued along the riverside and found an imbiss just outside of Ellenz. We stopped for lunch and then headed to the stellplatz in Ellenz.
Thursday 25th April
This morning the weather was still very cold and there was a brief flurry of snow. We continued our journey along the Moselle until we reached Alken with its imposing Burg Thurant – we had walked up to it on a previous visit to the area. A steep climb up out of the incised valley took us to the main road which bypasses Koblenz to the south. After crossing the Rhine at Lahnstein we followed the scenic river Lahn to Dausenau, a picturesque village on the north bank of the river. Here we walked a path that followed the line of the town walls.
Our next stop was Nassau. We walked the town trail which took us past the few historic sites which remain, mainly half timbered houses many of which are in a poor state of repair.
We stayed overnight in the stellplatz in the town centre.
Today the weather was extremely fickle – sunny with sudden heavy showers. We continued along the Moselle valley.
We were planning to head for Zell where we would park in the stellplatz above the river and walk over the footbridge into the town. One of our favourite imbisses is there and we were keen to have our first bratwurst mit pommies of the trip. However, by the time we got there it was absolutely heaving down, the imbiss was closed and there was no way we were going to walk across an exposed footbridge over the river and into town!
We continued along the riverside and found an imbiss just outside of Ellenz. We stopped for lunch and then headed to the stellplatz in Ellenz.
Thursday 25th April
This morning the weather was still very cold and there was a brief flurry of snow. We continued our journey along the Moselle until we reached Alken with its imposing Burg Thurant – we had walked up to it on a previous visit to the area. A steep climb up out of the incised valley took us to the main road which bypasses Koblenz to the south. After crossing the Rhine at Lahnstein we followed the scenic river Lahn to Dausenau, a picturesque village on the north bank of the river. Here we walked a path that followed the line of the town walls.
Our next stop was Nassau. We walked the town trail which took us past the few historic sites which remain, mainly half timbered houses many of which are in a poor state of repair.
We stayed overnight in the stellplatz in the town centre.
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Friday 26th April
Continued to head along the picturesque Lahn valley road to Limburg where we hoped to park for the night. Unfortunately because of road closures the town centre was inaccessible so we abandoned our plan to explore the old town.
Instead we headed for Wetzlar which proved to be an interesting town situated on the banks of the river. We were fortunate enough to find a stellplatz with just four motorhome bays where for €8 you could park for 24 hours.
A short walk took us into the heart of the medieval centre. We headed for the tourist office where we were able to secure a town trail. This proved, at times, difficult to follow due to large scale building works near the cathedral.The pedestrianised centre was virtually all of medieval origin with shops at ground level but fascinating buildings if you looked up! Uniquely, the cathedral is shared by both Protestant and Catholic congregations and consists of two completely different buildings joined together!
Continued to head along the picturesque Lahn valley road to Limburg where we hoped to park for the night. Unfortunately because of road closures the town centre was inaccessible so we abandoned our plan to explore the old town.
Instead we headed for Wetzlar which proved to be an interesting town situated on the banks of the river. We were fortunate enough to find a stellplatz with just four motorhome bays where for €8 you could park for 24 hours.
A short walk took us into the heart of the medieval centre. We headed for the tourist office where we were able to secure a town trail. This proved, at times, difficult to follow due to large scale building works near the cathedral.The pedestrianised centre was virtually all of medieval origin with shops at ground level but fascinating buildings if you looked up! Uniquely, the cathedral is shared by both Protestant and Catholic congregations and consists of two completely different buildings joined together!
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Saturday 27th April
After leaving our overnight parking we headed towards Gieβen – luckily we passed an Aldi supermarket so we were able to buy food for today and tomorrow (most shops are closed on Sunday).
Our route west of Gieβen and its circle of fast motorways took us cross country through picturesque protected national forests, often with fine views. A road closure near Schottern meant a detour to reach Lauterbach, a pretty little town on the banks of the river Lauter.
The overnight motorhome parking was on the banks of the river. We stopped there in time for lunch and then headed into town. We were lucky as the Tourist Office should have been closed by now but had remained open as the lady there was helping a cyclist who needed to find someone to repair his bike. I nipped in and picked up a copy of the town trail.
We followed the town trail which took in the most important buildings. One fountain situated outside the tourist office, alluded to a well known German song – “In Lauterbach I lost my sock”!
After leaving our overnight parking we headed towards Gieβen – luckily we passed an Aldi supermarket so we were able to buy food for today and tomorrow (most shops are closed on Sunday).
Our route west of Gieβen and its circle of fast motorways took us cross country through picturesque protected national forests, often with fine views. A road closure near Schottern meant a detour to reach Lauterbach, a pretty little town on the banks of the river Lauter.
The overnight motorhome parking was on the banks of the river. We stopped there in time for lunch and then headed into town. We were lucky as the Tourist Office should have been closed by now but had remained open as the lady there was helping a cyclist who needed to find someone to repair his bike. I nipped in and picked up a copy of the town trail.
We followed the town trail which took in the most important buildings. One fountain situated outside the tourist office, alluded to a well known German song – “In Lauterbach I lost my sock”!
Sunday 28th April
A scenic drive mainly along quiet roads took us through the beautiful, mainly wooded countryside to Vacha, a small town on the banks of the Werra river. We made a stop at the former border between West and East Germany (1989 saw the two parts of Germany finally re-united). A solitary watch tower is all that remains of the former border but the wide “death strip” stretching in both directions can be clearly made out.
A scenic drive mainly along quiet roads took us through the beautiful, mainly wooded countryside to Vacha, a small town on the banks of the Werra river. We made a stop at the former border between West and East Germany (1989 saw the two parts of Germany finally re-united). A solitary watch tower is all that remains of the former border but the wide “death strip” stretching in both directions can be clearly made out.
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After road blocks and a long diversion we reached the small village of Möhra, the home of Martin Luther’s family.
Martin Luther (1483 to 1546) was the founder of Protestantism and modern written German. He is remembered mainly for his famous 95 theses in which he attacked the way the church was being run. It is reputed that these theses, known as the Diet of Worms were nailed to the church door in Worms by Luther in 1521.
In the centre of Möhra is the Luthers’ family home built in 1618 by George Luther, a great grandchild of Martin Luther’s uncle. In the small square outside the house is the “Reformer’s Monument” which on its base shows the three major events in Luther’s life – the posting of the theses in Wittenberg, his capture in the Glasbachgrund near Steinbach and Martin Luther as “Junker Jörg” at the Wartburg.
The beautiful little church was accessed through a decorated archway with the Saxon crest. The interior of the church is stunning. Three stained glass windows in the choir depict Martin Luther and a companion, Jesus speaking to his followers and the sending of the apostles Peter and John. The wooden barrelled ceiling was painted with a mural in 1793 and the magnificent organ dominates the area between the two levels of the balcony. Outside in the square are two of the original three panels that depict a modern version of a copper plated engraving from 1847.
We stayed overnight in Möhra on the quiet stellplatz by the sports field.
Martin Luther (1483 to 1546) was the founder of Protestantism and modern written German. He is remembered mainly for his famous 95 theses in which he attacked the way the church was being run. It is reputed that these theses, known as the Diet of Worms were nailed to the church door in Worms by Luther in 1521.
In the centre of Möhra is the Luthers’ family home built in 1618 by George Luther, a great grandchild of Martin Luther’s uncle. In the small square outside the house is the “Reformer’s Monument” which on its base shows the three major events in Luther’s life – the posting of the theses in Wittenberg, his capture in the Glasbachgrund near Steinbach and Martin Luther as “Junker Jörg” at the Wartburg.
The beautiful little church was accessed through a decorated archway with the Saxon crest. The interior of the church is stunning. Three stained glass windows in the choir depict Martin Luther and a companion, Jesus speaking to his followers and the sending of the apostles Peter and John. The wooden barrelled ceiling was painted with a mural in 1793 and the magnificent organ dominates the area between the two levels of the balcony. Outside in the square are two of the original three panels that depict a modern version of a copper plated engraving from 1847.
We stayed overnight in Möhra on the quiet stellplatz by the sports field.
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Monday 29th April
Today we headed into the Thuringer forest where the roads were steep and narrow – the scenery was beautiful and at times there were views across to the “Groβer Inselberg” which, at 916m, is the highest peak in the area.
After shopping for provisions in the small mountain resort of Ruhla, we headed to Fridrichrode. A very helpful lady in the tourist office gave us directions to Reinhardsbrunn Castle, the birthplace of both Prince Albert von Sachsen Coburg-Gotha and the Duchess of Kent, Queen Victoria’s mother. It is reputed that Victoria met Albert there but in fact they first met in 1836 when Albert and his brother Ernest visited Kensington Palace with their Uncle Leopold, King of the Belgians. Victoria and Albert did however visit the castle in 1845.
Unfortunately the castle was currently being renovated so we could only view it from afar.
Today we headed into the Thuringer forest where the roads were steep and narrow – the scenery was beautiful and at times there were views across to the “Groβer Inselberg” which, at 916m, is the highest peak in the area.
After shopping for provisions in the small mountain resort of Ruhla, we headed to Fridrichrode. A very helpful lady in the tourist office gave us directions to Reinhardsbrunn Castle, the birthplace of both Prince Albert von Sachsen Coburg-Gotha and the Duchess of Kent, Queen Victoria’s mother. It is reputed that Victoria met Albert there but in fact they first met in 1836 when Albert and his brother Ernest visited Kensington Palace with their Uncle Leopold, King of the Belgians. Victoria and Albert did however visit the castle in 1845.
Unfortunately the castle was currently being renovated so we could only view it from afar.
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Our next stop was at Trusetal where a magnificent waterfall, built by local miners in 1856 as a tourist attraction, cascades down the steep hillside.
Our final stop of the day was at the small town of Schmalkalden which has a number of fine timber framed houses. Stayed overnight at the stellplatz there.
Our final stop of the day was at the small town of Schmalkalden which has a number of fine timber framed houses. Stayed overnight at the stellplatz there.
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Tuesday 30th April
First stop of the day was a food shop for the next two days – tomorrow is the Mayday bank holiday.
We took a very cross country route through the dense wooded area of the eastern Thuringia forest, passing en route the ski resort of Oberhof which had numerous ski lifts, ski trails and an ice rink. Oberhof is best known as being a ski jump training centre for children. Looking at the height and length of the ski jump I couldn’t imagine sending my children down it!
We stopped with the intention of visiting the alpine garden but changed our minds when we saw the entry price. We were not the only ones, lots of people came to look and turned away when they saw the price! There was still snow on the top of the mountain and our guide book advised that April was too early to see the flowers. Instead we went for a walk through the forest.
From Oberhof took the autobahn which had a 7.3km tunnel (the longest in Germany) and headed to Ilmenau where our Stellplatz Guide advertised a stellplatz. Unfortunately it was no longer there so we continued on to Saalfeld. The road was obviously a through route for lorries which hurtled through the narrow village streets.
Stayed overnight in Saalfeld on a dusty car park with no facilities.
Wednesday 1st May
Mayday bank holiday so no shops open but plenty of traffic. It was a very frustrating drive as most of the roads through the Thuringia forest were closed and we had countless detours and diversions. At times we seemed to be driving round and round in circles. At least the scenery was stunning.
Eventually we reached Mödlareuth, a village that was split in half by the East/West German Border. As such it was referred to as “Little Berlin”. As an introduction we watched a film that documented the formation of the border. We then wandered round the village. Dotted around are examples of the various border defences.
Overnight on the car park by the open air museum.
First stop of the day was a food shop for the next two days – tomorrow is the Mayday bank holiday.
We took a very cross country route through the dense wooded area of the eastern Thuringia forest, passing en route the ski resort of Oberhof which had numerous ski lifts, ski trails and an ice rink. Oberhof is best known as being a ski jump training centre for children. Looking at the height and length of the ski jump I couldn’t imagine sending my children down it!
We stopped with the intention of visiting the alpine garden but changed our minds when we saw the entry price. We were not the only ones, lots of people came to look and turned away when they saw the price! There was still snow on the top of the mountain and our guide book advised that April was too early to see the flowers. Instead we went for a walk through the forest.
From Oberhof took the autobahn which had a 7.3km tunnel (the longest in Germany) and headed to Ilmenau where our Stellplatz Guide advertised a stellplatz. Unfortunately it was no longer there so we continued on to Saalfeld. The road was obviously a through route for lorries which hurtled through the narrow village streets.
Stayed overnight in Saalfeld on a dusty car park with no facilities.
Wednesday 1st May
Mayday bank holiday so no shops open but plenty of traffic. It was a very frustrating drive as most of the roads through the Thuringia forest were closed and we had countless detours and diversions. At times we seemed to be driving round and round in circles. At least the scenery was stunning.
Eventually we reached Mödlareuth, a village that was split in half by the East/West German Border. As such it was referred to as “Little Berlin”. As an introduction we watched a film that documented the formation of the border. We then wandered round the village. Dotted around are examples of the various border defences.
Overnight on the car park by the open air museum.
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Thursday 2nd May
An easier day today with no diversions so we were soon back in Saalfeld. Yesterday morning we’d seen another stellplatze sign-posted by the Feengrotten and I decided I wanted to visit the caves. This one was much nicer with full facilities including toilets and showers.
As soon as she saw John hobbling along with his walking stick the receptionist told him he could not go down the cave so I went on my own. The cave system was exploited in the 16th century as an alun-slate mine. It was reopened as a show cave in 1914. By the 1920’s a mineral spring had been discovered which led speleologists to explore further into the cave system where they discovered drip-water-features that had been oxidised into a kaleidoscope of colours. Guinness World Records describe the caves as the most colourful on earth – ochre, rust, cream, grey and green. A light show in the final cave had been set to music.
We then attempted to do a circular walk but met with failure – the walk was sign-posted to begin with but we kept coming across junctions in the path with no indication which was the right direction. It was very hot and John was struggling so we turned round and retraced our steps.
An easier day today with no diversions so we were soon back in Saalfeld. Yesterday morning we’d seen another stellplatze sign-posted by the Feengrotten and I decided I wanted to visit the caves. This one was much nicer with full facilities including toilets and showers.
As soon as she saw John hobbling along with his walking stick the receptionist told him he could not go down the cave so I went on my own. The cave system was exploited in the 16th century as an alun-slate mine. It was reopened as a show cave in 1914. By the 1920’s a mineral spring had been discovered which led speleologists to explore further into the cave system where they discovered drip-water-features that had been oxidised into a kaleidoscope of colours. Guinness World Records describe the caves as the most colourful on earth – ochre, rust, cream, grey and green. A light show in the final cave had been set to music.
We then attempted to do a circular walk but met with failure – the walk was sign-posted to begin with but we kept coming across junctions in the path with no indication which was the right direction. It was very hot and John was struggling so we turned round and retraced our steps.
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Friday 3rd May
As soon as we set off all our route planning for the day was to no avail. Yet another road closure and a long diversion. Returning to the west-east road we had been on yesterday we headed for the autobahn and drove to Bad Berka, a delightful little spa town with a pretty pedestrianised centre. We stayed there overnight.
Saturday 4th May
A short drive this morning to the former concentration camp of Buchenwald. The approach to the camp was along the “Death Road” and past the railway platform which was the arrival point for the prisoners.
The gateway led into the roll call square and the whole perimeter was surrounded by electric fences and 22 watch towers of which only two have survived intact.
Nothing remains of the actual wooden huts that housed the prisoners – their positions being marked by areas of stones. The camp gate housed individual detention cells where SS prison guards tortured and murdered inmates. Several of the blocks are labelled including the Sinti and Roma block and the children’s block.
As soon as we set off all our route planning for the day was to no avail. Yet another road closure and a long diversion. Returning to the west-east road we had been on yesterday we headed for the autobahn and drove to Bad Berka, a delightful little spa town with a pretty pedestrianised centre. We stayed there overnight.
Saturday 4th May
A short drive this morning to the former concentration camp of Buchenwald. The approach to the camp was along the “Death Road” and past the railway platform which was the arrival point for the prisoners.
The gateway led into the roll call square and the whole perimeter was surrounded by electric fences and 22 watch towers of which only two have survived intact.
Nothing remains of the actual wooden huts that housed the prisoners – their positions being marked by areas of stones. The camp gate housed individual detention cells where SS prison guards tortured and murdered inmates. Several of the blocks are labelled including the Sinti and Roma block and the children’s block.
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On leaving the main camp we stopped at the GDR memorial area, constructed by 1985, with a bell tower dominating the scene in front of which is a stylised sculpture of a group of victims depicted by Fritz Cremer. Far below the bell house terrace were three burial pits, landscaped as ring graves. It was here that in the spring of 1945, the SS had hurriedly buried around 3000 corpses in natural depressions in the earth. The descent to the graves is marked by seven stone steles with pictorial depictions of life in the camp.
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After lunch we headed to Gotha but the town looked unappealing so we continued on to Bad Langensalza. The stellplatz was full but we managed to squeeze diagonally into the end of a small spot – sloping but better than nothing.
Sunday 5th May
Following overnight rain today was very overcast so, instead of heading for Hainich National Park as planned, we decided to stay put for the day. We waited for someone to leave so we could have a better pitch and spent the morning cleaning the ‘van and generally getting sorted.
Later in the morning the weather brightened up so we walked into the old town. For a while we sat and watched a children’s soapbox race which looked great fun. There where food and beer stalls so we had a tasty bratwurst in a bun followed by an ice cream for lunch. Bad Langensalza proved to be a pretty little town with much of its walls still intact along with many of its original towers. We wandered the town, walked round the walls and visited several of the themed gardens outside the walls, including the Japanese garden where local children were dressed in traditional Japanese costume.
Sunday 5th May
Following overnight rain today was very overcast so, instead of heading for Hainich National Park as planned, we decided to stay put for the day. We waited for someone to leave so we could have a better pitch and spent the morning cleaning the ‘van and generally getting sorted.
Later in the morning the weather brightened up so we walked into the old town. For a while we sat and watched a children’s soapbox race which looked great fun. There where food and beer stalls so we had a tasty bratwurst in a bun followed by an ice cream for lunch. Bad Langensalza proved to be a pretty little town with much of its walls still intact along with many of its original towers. We wandered the town, walked round the walls and visited several of the themed gardens outside the walls, including the Japanese garden where local children were dressed in traditional Japanese costume.
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Monday 6th May
We woke to another dull, drizzly day. Decided to abort our plan to visit the tree top walk in Hainich National Park as the entire park was shrouded in mist. Instead we headed north to the small, walled town of Mühlhausen where we had stayed on a previous visit to Germany. After a stroll to the Tourist Office to access wifi and an ice cream, we decided to return to the motorhome for the rest of the day.
Tuesday 7th May
Took the scenic route to Eisenach where one of the highlights of this trip awaited – Wartburg Castle.
A steep winding road led up to the car park from where we took the shuttle bus up to the castle itself. The Wartburg was believed to have been founded in the 11th C. The castle is a conglomeration of buildings of totally different styles. Reputedly it was the actual location for the singing competition which inspired Wagner’s Opera “Tannhӓuser”. In one room the life of St. Elizabeth is depicted and was reputedly the scene of the singing competition in the opera.
Martin Luther found refuge in a small room within the castle while he translated the New Testament into German.
We woke to another dull, drizzly day. Decided to abort our plan to visit the tree top walk in Hainich National Park as the entire park was shrouded in mist. Instead we headed north to the small, walled town of Mühlhausen where we had stayed on a previous visit to Germany. After a stroll to the Tourist Office to access wifi and an ice cream, we decided to return to the motorhome for the rest of the day.
Tuesday 7th May
Took the scenic route to Eisenach where one of the highlights of this trip awaited – Wartburg Castle.
A steep winding road led up to the car park from where we took the shuttle bus up to the castle itself. The Wartburg was believed to have been founded in the 11th C. The castle is a conglomeration of buildings of totally different styles. Reputedly it was the actual location for the singing competition which inspired Wagner’s Opera “Tannhӓuser”. In one room the life of St. Elizabeth is depicted and was reputedly the scene of the singing competition in the opera.
Martin Luther found refuge in a small room within the castle while he translated the New Testament into German.
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After leaving Eisenach we headed down the motorway to Alsfeld, our stop for the night.
Wednesday 8th May
Despite the forecasted cold and rain the day has been hot and sunny. We decided to spend another night on the very popular and over-subscribed stellplatze.
Alsfeld is a charming small medieval town with many historic buildings clustered around the central market square. We had been here before when we were following the German Fairy Tale Road. After wandering through the inner core of the town we headed back to the motorhome for a restful afternoon.
Wednesday 8th May
Despite the forecasted cold and rain the day has been hot and sunny. We decided to spend another night on the very popular and over-subscribed stellplatze.
Alsfeld is a charming small medieval town with many historic buildings clustered around the central market square. We had been here before when we were following the German Fairy Tale Road. After wandering through the inner core of the town we headed back to the motorhome for a restful afternoon.
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Thursday 9th May
Unknown to us today was a bank holiday and everywhere was closed! We had planned on going for a swim, stocking up on food and then moving on. We have no idea why it was a holiday.
As we’d vacated our parking place there was no going back, dozens of motorhomes were circling the car park looking for places. Studying the Bord Atlas we found another stellplatz by a swimming pool and headed there hoping we would find somewhere to buy food en route.
Thanks to yet another diversion we went via Marburg but at least found a filling station open with “Food to Go”. A narrow, twisty road took us through the forests to Hilchenbach. Arrived at the stellplatz to find the swimming pool was open air and closed!
Friday 10th May
A long and frustrating day thanks to numerous diversions due to roadworks.Eventually we reached the Moselle Valley and drove into the small town of Cochem.
Cochem is generally a busy place but it was absolutely heaving, we continued along following the river but there were still crowds everywhere. It seemed that yesterday having been a bank holiday everyone had extended the break into a long weekend. We had hoped to stay at Ellenz but that was full so continued on to Ediger, one of our favourite places. We could not believe our luck. Not only a vacant spot on the stellplatz but one overlooking the river.
We parked up end stayed there for the next three days!
Saturday & Sunday 11/12th May
Unbelievable, this is not like us, spending three days in the same place. Weather was very hot. We had breakfast each day and then wandered to the village bakery to buy rolls and apple cake. At lunchtime we headed to the imbiss and then had an ice cream. The rest of the time we just sat in the shade and watched the boats go by.
Unknown to us today was a bank holiday and everywhere was closed! We had planned on going for a swim, stocking up on food and then moving on. We have no idea why it was a holiday.
As we’d vacated our parking place there was no going back, dozens of motorhomes were circling the car park looking for places. Studying the Bord Atlas we found another stellplatz by a swimming pool and headed there hoping we would find somewhere to buy food en route.
Thanks to yet another diversion we went via Marburg but at least found a filling station open with “Food to Go”. A narrow, twisty road took us through the forests to Hilchenbach. Arrived at the stellplatz to find the swimming pool was open air and closed!
Friday 10th May
A long and frustrating day thanks to numerous diversions due to roadworks.Eventually we reached the Moselle Valley and drove into the small town of Cochem.
Cochem is generally a busy place but it was absolutely heaving, we continued along following the river but there were still crowds everywhere. It seemed that yesterday having been a bank holiday everyone had extended the break into a long weekend. We had hoped to stay at Ellenz but that was full so continued on to Ediger, one of our favourite places. We could not believe our luck. Not only a vacant spot on the stellplatz but one overlooking the river.
We parked up end stayed there for the next three days!
Saturday & Sunday 11/12th May
Unbelievable, this is not like us, spending three days in the same place. Weather was very hot. We had breakfast each day and then wandered to the village bakery to buy rolls and apple cake. At lunchtime we headed to the imbiss and then had an ice cream. The rest of the time we just sat in the shade and watched the boats go by.
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Monday 13th May
After the crowds of the weekend everywhere is deserted now. Drove back to Ellenz and parked up. Took the ferry across the river to Beilstein.
We had explored Beilstein many times before but had never climbed up to the castle. As it was a very steep climb I left John sitting on a bench and headed up on my own. The ruined castle dates back to 1268. It was destroyed by the French in 1689 and now the 25 metre high keep dominates the remains of the walls and towers. The view from the castle towards Polsterdorf and beyond is amazing.
Took the ferry back to Ellenz and stopped at the imbiss for bratwurst mit pommies followed by an ice cream. This would be our last treat as we were now homeward bound
After the crowds of the weekend everywhere is deserted now. Drove back to Ellenz and parked up. Took the ferry across the river to Beilstein.
We had explored Beilstein many times before but had never climbed up to the castle. As it was a very steep climb I left John sitting on a bench and headed up on my own. The ruined castle dates back to 1268. It was destroyed by the French in 1689 and now the 25 metre high keep dominates the remains of the walls and towers. The view from the castle towards Polsterdorf and beyond is amazing.
Took the ferry back to Ellenz and stopped at the imbiss for bratwurst mit pommies followed by an ice cream. This would be our last treat as we were now homeward bound
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Tuesday 14th May
Another hot sunny day. A short drive took us to Zell where we had a pitch overlooking the river. Took a short walk along the river towpath.
Wednesday 15th May
The fine weather has broken. Drove to Brauneberg. Had intended to take one of our favourite walks down Nussbaum Ally but it was heaving down with rain.
Thursday 16th May
A very short drive, only 7km, took us to Piesport. This had been our first stop on the Mosselle this trip and would also be our last. Managed a short walk between showers.
Friday 17th May
Absolutely diabolical weather. Rained all night and continued to rain all day.
Drove to Mettlach intending to stay on the stellplatz there. On arrival discovered that there was a Volkswagen beetle rally there. There were literally hundreds there, together with a beer tent, refreshments and a stage ready for a concert that evening.
Drove onto Perl and stayed there overnight.
Saturday 18th May
Left Germany, filled up with diesel in Luxembourg and headed to Belgium. Stayed overnight again at the barge lift at Strépy Thieu.
Sunday 19th May
Drove into France. Stayed overnight at a little aire in Watten, a new one for us and a place we had been told about by someone we had met last year. Took a short stroll through the village.
Monday 19th May
Drove the short distance to Calais. Arrived in very good time for our ferry but almost missed it – spent over an hour in a queue getting through UK border control! As a result there was no time to visit the excellent duty free shop in Calais and the shop on the Irish Ferries ship was most disappointing. However, breakfast was good and the crossing smooth.
An easy drive got us home in time for tea.
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