France and Germany 2026
Following a period of uncertainty over age related health issues we are both now (relatively) fit and keen to head off travelling again!
Our multi-trip travel insurance expires soon. We arranged it through the Caravan and Motorhome Club but unfortunately the underwriters are not renewing the contract so we will be looking for new insurance. At our age that could prove difficult and expensive. However, we have time for one more continental trip.
Tuesday 7th April
A very slow journey to Folkestone - over an hour in a traffic jam queuing to get over the Dartford crossing due to an accident.
Stopped at the Valiant Sailor for a meal and overnight.
Wednesday 8th April
We were expecting a lond delay getting through customs but the new biometric testing had not started yet so we were through quickly and put on an earlier boat. Stopped to do some food shopping then drove the short distance to the beautiful small fortified town of Bergues. The star-shaped walls with four gateways and a deep moat date back to the Middle Ages. These defences were further developed by Vauban after the treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle in 1668. A tall belfry, rebuilt after being dynamited during WW2, dominates the sky line. A carillion of 50 bells sound every hour.
A new aire de campingcars was in the process of being built but was not open yet. Parked overnight at the sports centre close to the Porte de Cassel.
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Thursday 9th April
Another lovely sunny day, just perfect for exploring more of the historic walled town of Bergeus.
We followed the outside of the impressive walls, before climbing up the steep path leading to the Abbaye Saint-Winoc. Originally built in the 7th century, it became a Benedictine abbey early in the 11th century and grew in wealth. The monastery was damaged by fire twice, and heavily rebuilt in the 18th century. Following the French Revolution the abbey was disbanded, sold and most of the buildings dismantled. Only two isolated towers remain.
From the abbey we descended to follow more of the outer fortifications. We passed the Porte d'Hondscoate before continuing along the walls and towers along the River Colme to the Porte de Dunkerque. We then headed back to the centre of town where we bought food for lunch and dinner. Spent the afternoon relaxing.
Another lovely sunny day, just perfect for exploring more of the historic walled town of Bergeus.
We followed the outside of the impressive walls, before climbing up the steep path leading to the Abbaye Saint-Winoc. Originally built in the 7th century, it became a Benedictine abbey early in the 11th century and grew in wealth. The monastery was damaged by fire twice, and heavily rebuilt in the 18th century. Following the French Revolution the abbey was disbanded, sold and most of the buildings dismantled. Only two isolated towers remain.
From the abbey we descended to follow more of the outer fortifications. We passed the Porte d'Hondscoate before continuing along the walls and towers along the River Colme to the Porte de Dunkerque. We then headed back to the centre of town where we bought food for lunch and dinner. Spent the afternoon relaxing.
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Friday 10th April
As there were no motorhome facilities in Bergues until the new aire is complete, we headed via Esquelbecq before heading to the motorway. Surprisingly this was very quiet including round Lille and we soon reached our next destination, Bavay.
Now a small town it was once an important Roman city, capital of the Nervii. The Basilica had only been partially excavated but was still very impressive with a series of information boards explaining each part in detail.
Parked overnight at the aire close to the Roman remains.
As there were no motorhome facilities in Bergues until the new aire is complete, we headed via Esquelbecq before heading to the motorway. Surprisingly this was very quiet including round Lille and we soon reached our next destination, Bavay.
Now a small town it was once an important Roman city, capital of the Nervii. The Basilica had only been partially excavated but was still very impressive with a series of information boards explaining each part in detail.
Parked overnight at the aire close to the Roman remains.
Saturday 11th April
After food shopping for the weekend we headed to Givet on the River Meuse. We had discovered Givet the previous year and spent a couple of enjoyable days there. The aire is right beside the river with parking spots facing the river. The town, the other side of the river, is dominated by the Fortress of Charlemont, built in 1555.
After food shopping for the weekend we headed to Givet on the River Meuse. We had discovered Givet the previous year and spent a couple of enjoyable days there. The aire is right beside the river with parking spots facing the river. The town, the other side of the river, is dominated by the Fortress of Charlemont, built in 1555.
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We crossed the bridge, rebuilt by the Americans after WW2 and wandered into town for an ice cream.
Sunday 12th April
Today we walked along the banks of the river, discovering remains of ancient fortifications and embankments, evidence of Givet's involvement in both the Nine Years War and the Napoleonic War. Over the centuries Givet, which is surrounded by Belgium on three sides, exchanged hands many times, eventually becoming part of France in 1678.
Sunday 12th April
Today we walked along the banks of the river, discovering remains of ancient fortifications and embankments, evidence of Givet's involvement in both the Nine Years War and the Napoleonic War. Over the centuries Givet, which is surrounded by Belgium on three sides, exchanged hands many times, eventually becoming part of France in 1678.
Monday 13th April
A short drive following the river took us to Haybes, now a sleepy little town but one with much history as in the past it had important slate quaries. On 24 August 1914, the German army crossed Belgium, pushing through the Ardenne and wiping out every pocket of resistance. In Haybes, a massacre occurred: 52 civilians were shot and the martyred city was burnt. Afterwards the town was rebuilt with many fine mansions and elaborate public buildings, now a little faded and run down.
Parked overnight alongside the river.
A short drive following the river took us to Haybes, now a sleepy little town but one with much history as in the past it had important slate quaries. On 24 August 1914, the German army crossed Belgium, pushing through the Ardenne and wiping out every pocket of resistance. In Haybes, a massacre occurred: 52 civilians were shot and the martyred city was burnt. Afterwards the town was rebuilt with many fine mansions and elaborate public buildings, now a little faded and run down.
Parked overnight alongside the river.
Tuesday 14th April
A misty start to the day made us change our planned route of heading up into the Ardennnes. Instead we skirted round the southern edge of the hills bypassing Charlesville - Mezieres and Sedan, ending up at Stenay. The well appointed aire had electric hookup points (but only a few of them worked!), toilets and showers and was clearly popular with a large group of fishermen and their partners all of whom seemed to know each other.
Wednesday 15th April
We continued east following the French/German border - mainly A roads but some short stretches of motorway, until we reached the historic small town of Rodemack. A large aire de campingcars was located just outside the ramparts.
The village, which grew into a fortified town, was founded around 1190. The fortress was built on the site of an ancient castellum close to a Roman road. By the 16th century the medieval fortress was enclosed and turned into a citadel. In 1678 the French finally claimed the village. Louis XIV strengthened the fortifications and installed infantry barracks.
A misty start to the day made us change our planned route of heading up into the Ardennnes. Instead we skirted round the southern edge of the hills bypassing Charlesville - Mezieres and Sedan, ending up at Stenay. The well appointed aire had electric hookup points (but only a few of them worked!), toilets and showers and was clearly popular with a large group of fishermen and their partners all of whom seemed to know each other.
Wednesday 15th April
We continued east following the French/German border - mainly A roads but some short stretches of motorway, until we reached the historic small town of Rodemack. A large aire de campingcars was located just outside the ramparts.
The village, which grew into a fortified town, was founded around 1190. The fortress was built on the site of an ancient castellum close to a Roman road. By the 16th century the medieval fortress was enclosed and turned into a citadel. In 1678 the French finally claimed the village. Louis XIV strengthened the fortifications and installed infantry barracks.
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Thursday 16th April
As we were near to the Luxembourg border we headed there to fill up with diesel which has always been a little cheaper there. With diesel in both France and Germany now well over £2 a litre any saving was worth while!
Not long after heading over the border into Germany, the volume of traffic gradually increased as we reached the industrial hub of the Saarland. Normally we would not have travelled into this area but we wanted to drive the Berta Benz Memorial Route. By 11.30 a.m. we had ground to a halt completely. By 1.30 p.m. we weren't much further forward. We reached a layby which fortunately had room for us so we stopped for lunch. After lunch we were finally diverted off the autobahn and a diversion took us slowly passed the obstruction and finally back on to the autobahn. At Pirmasens we followed a route through the Pfalzer Wald, again the traffic was bad with another long diversion but we eventually reached Landau, on the German Wine Route.
Our overnight stop was at Hassloch, by the sports centre.
Friday 17th April
A rather cross country journey as we navigated around the conurbations of Mannheim and Ludwigshafen - a few hiccups but eventually we reached Ladenburg, where we joined the Bertha Benz Memorial Route.
Bertha Benz's husband, Carl Benz, patented the first automobile designed to produce its own power in January 1886.
In early August 1888, without her husband's knowledge, Bertha Benz, with her sons Richard (aged 14) and Eugen (aged 15), drove in Benz's newly constructed Patent Motorwagen No. 3 automobile from Mannheim to her own birthplace, Pforzheim, becoming the first person to drive an automobile powered with an internal combustion engine over more than a very short distance. The journey was 65 miles, making the drive the world's very first road trip!
We visited the Dr. Carl Benz Museum, housed in the Benz family home. The museum had a collection of Benz cars from the very earliest through to 1960's Mercedes Benz as well as racing cars and a few other makes including an Amilcar. We were very fortunate as the museum was actually closed but a women working there at the desk allowed us entry.
From there we headed to the stellplatz at Ladenburg.
As we were near to the Luxembourg border we headed there to fill up with diesel which has always been a little cheaper there. With diesel in both France and Germany now well over £2 a litre any saving was worth while!
Not long after heading over the border into Germany, the volume of traffic gradually increased as we reached the industrial hub of the Saarland. Normally we would not have travelled into this area but we wanted to drive the Berta Benz Memorial Route. By 11.30 a.m. we had ground to a halt completely. By 1.30 p.m. we weren't much further forward. We reached a layby which fortunately had room for us so we stopped for lunch. After lunch we were finally diverted off the autobahn and a diversion took us slowly passed the obstruction and finally back on to the autobahn. At Pirmasens we followed a route through the Pfalzer Wald, again the traffic was bad with another long diversion but we eventually reached Landau, on the German Wine Route.
Our overnight stop was at Hassloch, by the sports centre.
Friday 17th April
A rather cross country journey as we navigated around the conurbations of Mannheim and Ludwigshafen - a few hiccups but eventually we reached Ladenburg, where we joined the Bertha Benz Memorial Route.
Bertha Benz's husband, Carl Benz, patented the first automobile designed to produce its own power in January 1886.
In early August 1888, without her husband's knowledge, Bertha Benz, with her sons Richard (aged 14) and Eugen (aged 15), drove in Benz's newly constructed Patent Motorwagen No. 3 automobile from Mannheim to her own birthplace, Pforzheim, becoming the first person to drive an automobile powered with an internal combustion engine over more than a very short distance. The journey was 65 miles, making the drive the world's very first road trip!
We visited the Dr. Carl Benz Museum, housed in the Benz family home. The museum had a collection of Benz cars from the very earliest through to 1960's Mercedes Benz as well as racing cars and a few other makes including an Amilcar. We were very fortunate as the museum was actually closed but a women working there at the desk allowed us entry.
From there we headed to the stellplatz at Ladenburg.
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Saturday 18th April
We found a sign post for the Bertha Benz Memorial Route outside the Dr. Carl Benz Museum and headed off, only to lose the route soon after as there were road works and a diversion! Eventually we got back to the correct road and headed to Wiesloch.
It was here that Bertha bought Ligroin, a solvent available only at chemist's shops. We parked down a side street and found our way into the centre of the town. Initially we missed the Pharmecy, which became the world's first "Filling Station", as their were food and drink stalls blocking it and the statue commemorating the event, but after several attempts at asking directions a local council worker digging a hole in the road pointed out the right direction!
We found a sign post for the Bertha Benz Memorial Route outside the Dr. Carl Benz Museum and headed off, only to lose the route soon after as there were road works and a diversion! Eventually we got back to the correct road and headed to Wiesloch.
It was here that Bertha bought Ligroin, a solvent available only at chemist's shops. We parked down a side street and found our way into the centre of the town. Initially we missed the Pharmecy, which became the world's first "Filling Station", as their were food and drink stalls blocking it and the statue commemorating the event, but after several attempts at asking directions a local council worker digging a hole in the road pointed out the right direction!
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After lunch, bratwurst mit pommes and an ice cream, we headed back to our motorhome. Having walked round and round in circles trying to find the pharmacy, we were unclear on where we had parked! Fortunately the map on our tracker app helped us find the way eventually. We continued on our way to Bruchsal for the night on the large car park by the sports centre.
Sunday 19th April
We woke up to an overcast morning which at times developed into heavy showers. By mid morning the weather brightened and we decided to move the short distance to Bretten where several motorhome parking were listed.
We chose the one by the swimming pool and decided to go for a swim, perhaps not the best idea on a wet Sunday afternoon as the pool was packed with families of young children!
Bretten is a small historic town with a beautiful ensemble of medieval town houses, churches and the distinctive Melanchthonhaus built in 1897.
Sunday 19th April
We woke up to an overcast morning which at times developed into heavy showers. By mid morning the weather brightened and we decided to move the short distance to Bretten where several motorhome parking were listed.
We chose the one by the swimming pool and decided to go for a swim, perhaps not the best idea on a wet Sunday afternoon as the pool was packed with families of young children!
Bretten is a small historic town with a beautiful ensemble of medieval town houses, churches and the distinctive Melanchthonhaus built in 1897.
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Monday 20th April
A rather abrupt waking to the day as a group of students from the nearby school were dropped off by cars and gathered around a coach before heading off on a visit!
We had a very short drive to Maulbron Abbey, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The abbey was founded in 1147 while the church was consecrated in 1178. Over time changes were made, with many newer buildings added in the 16th and 17th century, but many features of the early church remain. Surrounded by a high wall, the numerous abbey buildings form a small complex, almost like "a town within a town".
A rather abrupt waking to the day as a group of students from the nearby school were dropped off by cars and gathered around a coach before heading off on a visit!
We had a very short drive to Maulbron Abbey, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The abbey was founded in 1147 while the church was consecrated in 1178. Over time changes were made, with many newer buildings added in the 16th and 17th century, but many features of the early church remain. Surrounded by a high wall, the numerous abbey buildings form a small complex, almost like "a town within a town".
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Tuesday 21st April
From Bruchsal, the Bertha Benz Memorial Route heads out into far more open countryside, passing through many tiny villages before reaching its end in Pforzheim. The scenery is stunning with landscape ranging from the lush Upper Rhine Plain to rolling vineyards, ancient castle ruins, and the edge of the Black Forest. The road was amazingly quiet with little traffic, 138 years ago Bertha and her sons would have barely met a sole, apart from in the villages where her reception was often hostile. Some of the people she encountered thought she was a witch and her dirty, smelly noisy car the work of the devil. It must have been terrifying for them in the open countryside where a breakdown would have had drastic consequences. The roads now are wide and well surfaced, in their time they would have been dirt tracks. It would be another fifty years before rural roads would have a tar mac surface.
From Bruchsal, the Bertha Benz Memorial Route heads out into far more open countryside, passing through many tiny villages before reaching its end in Pforzheim. The scenery is stunning with landscape ranging from the lush Upper Rhine Plain to rolling vineyards, ancient castle ruins, and the edge of the Black Forest. The road was amazingly quiet with little traffic, 138 years ago Bertha and her sons would have barely met a sole, apart from in the villages where her reception was often hostile. Some of the people she encountered thought she was a witch and her dirty, smelly noisy car the work of the devil. It must have been terrifying for them in the open countryside where a breakdown would have had drastic consequences. The roads now are wide and well surfaced, in their time they would have been dirt tracks. It would be another fifty years before rural roads would have a tar mac surface.
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From Pforzheim we followed the Schwarzwald Baderstrasse route to Calw where we stopped for the night.
Wednesday 22nd April
Another early morning awakening when grass cutters started work close to our motorhome!
A short walk from the car park took us through a park, alongside a little stream towards the remains of Calw Abbey, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Founded in 830 by Erlafried, Count of Calw, it was one of the most powerful and important Benedictine monasteries in Europe. It was destroyed by French troops during the Palatine War of Succession in 1692. Its impressive ruins include the St. Peter and Paul church and the Lady Chapel.
Wednesday 22nd April
Another early morning awakening when grass cutters started work close to our motorhome!
A short walk from the car park took us through a park, alongside a little stream towards the remains of Calw Abbey, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Founded in 830 by Erlafried, Count of Calw, it was one of the most powerful and important Benedictine monasteries in Europe. It was destroyed by French troops during the Palatine War of Succession in 1692. Its impressive ruins include the St. Peter and Paul church and the Lady Chapel.
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The scenic route from Calw to Nehren spans about 37 miles, leading you from the eastern edges of the Black Forest into the scenic Neckar Valley and the foothills of the Swabian Alb. The journey transitions through dense forests, rolling vineyards, and historic medieval towns. Leaving Calw, we drove along the lush, winding Nagold River valley, heading towards Herrenberg, the Schombuch Nature Park, the ruins of Hohennagold Castle and the wine covered slopes of the Hirschauer Spitzberg.
Unfortunately it was not to be. Soon after leaving Calw the road was blocked and we ended up on a huge detour taking us on to the hochstrasse to Nehren. We ended up doing a lot of extra miles and missing out on some lovely scenery and pretty places!
Parked overnight on the stellplatz by the sports centre.
Thursday 23rd April
Soon after leaving Nehren we reached the small Roman site near Gammertingen.
Unfortunately it was not to be. Soon after leaving Calw the road was blocked and we ended up on a huge detour taking us on to the hochstrasse to Nehren. We ended up doing a lot of extra miles and missing out on some lovely scenery and pretty places!
Parked overnight on the stellplatz by the sports centre.
Thursday 23rd April
Soon after leaving Nehren we reached the small Roman site near Gammertingen.
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We encountered more roadworks, road closures and detours on our way to Riedlingen were we found the stellplatz dug up with a digger blocking the entrance! Continued on to Uttenweiler. The open air swimming pool was closed but the stellplatz was open.
Friday 24th April
Took the short drive towards Herbertingen. We were looking for the Heunaburg historical site which we'd read about in a magazine some time ago but didn't know exactly where it was! Fortunately, just before reaching Hundersingen we spotted a brown tourist sign.
The celtic city of Pyrene is the oldest settlement north of the alps. In the 6th century B.C. it was a flourishing city surrounded by high earthern walls. A large massive double entrance gate led into a large central compound. It is estimated that around five thousand people lived there.
Reconstructed dwellings huddle below a white stone walk way with far reaching vistas across the River Danube and the fertile river plain. We enjoyed watching a shepherd with his dogs herding a large flock of sheep in the valley below. Small exhibition areas displayed some of the finds especially those from the grave of a princess from 583BC. Nearby, large circular burial mounds with protective ditches and posts have also been excavated.
We stopped at Ochsenhausen for the night.
Friday 24th April
Took the short drive towards Herbertingen. We were looking for the Heunaburg historical site which we'd read about in a magazine some time ago but didn't know exactly where it was! Fortunately, just before reaching Hundersingen we spotted a brown tourist sign.
The celtic city of Pyrene is the oldest settlement north of the alps. In the 6th century B.C. it was a flourishing city surrounded by high earthern walls. A large massive double entrance gate led into a large central compound. It is estimated that around five thousand people lived there.
Reconstructed dwellings huddle below a white stone walk way with far reaching vistas across the River Danube and the fertile river plain. We enjoyed watching a shepherd with his dogs herding a large flock of sheep in the valley below. Small exhibition areas displayed some of the finds especially those from the grave of a princess from 583BC. Nearby, large circular burial mounds with protective ditches and posts have also been excavated.
We stopped at Ochsenhausen for the night.
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Saturday 25th April
We headed a short way further south this morning - magnificent views to the foothills of the Alps which still had patches of snow on the northern flanks.
After stopping for food shopping we headed to Egtofs where the motorhome parking was by the small indoor swimming pool. It was very quiet when we got there and we were not warned or would have come back later. A tiny tots swimming lesson was about to start. They took over the ladies' changing room and then most of the pool!
We had only planned our trip this far so, after lunch, we spent time sorting out the motorhome and then planning the next few days. We decided we would like to spent a bit of time in the high mountains of Bavaria and just over the border into Austria.
We headed a short way further south this morning - magnificent views to the foothills of the Alps which still had patches of snow on the northern flanks.
After stopping for food shopping we headed to Egtofs where the motorhome parking was by the small indoor swimming pool. It was very quiet when we got there and we were not warned or would have come back later. A tiny tots swimming lesson was about to start. They took over the ladies' changing room and then most of the pool!
We had only planned our trip this far so, after lunch, we spent time sorting out the motorhome and then planning the next few days. We decided we would like to spent a bit of time in the high mountains of Bavaria and just over the border into Austria.
Sunday 26th April
After a very quiet night we retraced our steps a short way back to Isny before taking a very cross country route to Oberstaufen - poorly signed diversions caused navigational problems! After passing through Immenstadt and Sonthoffen (Sue took a school ski party there fifty years ago), we drove up the challenging pass to the busy skiing resort of Oberjoch. Too many motorcyclists!
We stopped by the lake at Wertach. The stellplatz was huge with only three motorhomes there. No doubt it would be much busier during the ski season!
After a very quiet night we retraced our steps a short way back to Isny before taking a very cross country route to Oberstaufen - poorly signed diversions caused navigational problems! After passing through Immenstadt and Sonthoffen (Sue took a school ski party there fifty years ago), we drove up the challenging pass to the busy skiing resort of Oberjoch. Too many motorcyclists!
We stopped by the lake at Wertach. The stellplatz was huge with only three motorhomes there. No doubt it would be much busier during the ski season!
Monday 27th April
After food shopping, we drove a short, picturesque route along the shore of the Plansee - narrow in places but on a sunny day like today - extremely picturesque. The brilliant blue water and dense forest, still with the odd patch of snow, led to a memorable drive to Linderhof.
After food shopping, we drove a short, picturesque route along the shore of the Plansee - narrow in places but on a sunny day like today - extremely picturesque. The brilliant blue water and dense forest, still with the odd patch of snow, led to a memorable drive to Linderhof.
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Linderhof is the smallest of the three palaces built by King Ludwig II of Bavaria and the only one which was actually completed and that he lived in most of the time.
Ludwig already knew the area around Linderhof from his youth when he had accompanied his father King Maximilian II of Bavaria on his hunting trips in the Bavarian Alps. When Ludwig II became King in 1864, he inherited a hunting lodge, the so-called Königshäuschen ("King's little house") from his father, and in 1869 began enlarging the building. In 1874, he decided to tear down the Königshäuschen and rebuild it in its present-day location in the park. At the same time three new rooms and the staircase were added to the remaining U-shaped complex, and the previous wooden exterior was clad with stone façades. The building was designed in the style of the second rococo-period between 1863 and 1886.
After becoming king, Ludwig increasingly withdrew from day-to-day affairs of state in favour of extravagant artistic and architectural projects. He commissioned the construction of lavish palaces: Neuschwanstein Castle and Herrenchiemsee as well as Linderhof. He was also a devoted patron of the composer Richard Wagner. Ludwig spent all his own private royal revenues (although not state funds as is commonly thought) on these projects, borrowed extensively, and defied all attempts by his ministers to restrain him. This extravagance was used against him to declare him insane, a determination that is now questioned. Ludwig was taken into custody and effectively deposed on 12 June 1886; he and his doctor were found dead the following day. His death was ruled to be a suicide, a conclusion that is also now questioned.
Ludwig already knew the area around Linderhof from his youth when he had accompanied his father King Maximilian II of Bavaria on his hunting trips in the Bavarian Alps. When Ludwig II became King in 1864, he inherited a hunting lodge, the so-called Königshäuschen ("King's little house") from his father, and in 1869 began enlarging the building. In 1874, he decided to tear down the Königshäuschen and rebuild it in its present-day location in the park. At the same time three new rooms and the staircase were added to the remaining U-shaped complex, and the previous wooden exterior was clad with stone façades. The building was designed in the style of the second rococo-period between 1863 and 1886.
After becoming king, Ludwig increasingly withdrew from day-to-day affairs of state in favour of extravagant artistic and architectural projects. He commissioned the construction of lavish palaces: Neuschwanstein Castle and Herrenchiemsee as well as Linderhof. He was also a devoted patron of the composer Richard Wagner. Ludwig spent all his own private royal revenues (although not state funds as is commonly thought) on these projects, borrowed extensively, and defied all attempts by his ministers to restrain him. This extravagance was used against him to declare him insane, a determination that is now questioned. Ludwig was taken into custody and effectively deposed on 12 June 1886; he and his doctor were found dead the following day. His death was ruled to be a suicide, a conclusion that is also now questioned.
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We drove the short distance to Oberamergau where we stayed at the only motorhome stop-over, expensive for what it was, nothing but a patch of gravel. Before settling for the evening, we walked into the town. It has changed since we were last here in 2010 for the Passion Play that takes place every ten years. The play takes all day with a break for lunch. The play, whose cast are all local, is in celebration of the village having been saved from the plague. Sue was also here for the 1960 performance. Will we make it for the 2030 performance?
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Tuesday 28th April
We spent the morning at Glentleiten Open Air Museum where the focus was on rural life and buildings many of which were farm houses. The interior of the Schiebl house from Tyrlburn stood out as thw walls of all four upstairs rooms were covered in extremely elaborate and colourful folk paintings.
We spent the morning at Glentleiten Open Air Museum where the focus was on rural life and buildings many of which were farm houses. The interior of the Schiebl house from Tyrlburn stood out as thw walls of all four upstairs rooms were covered in extremely elaborate and colourful folk paintings.
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We ate lunch before heading to the Romantischestrasse. Heading some 20 miles north we stopped at a quiet overnight spot at Reiting. Unfortunately the open air swimming pool was closed.
Wednesday 29th April
Drove along the Romantischestrasse following the brown tourist signs with some deviations because of road works yet again. A german man we spoke to said they were "digging up Germany"! Arrived at our next stop in time for lunch, a stellplatze by a lake with a kiosk selling bratty and chips. Ate lunch whilst watching the kite surfers.
Wednesday 29th April
Drove along the Romantischestrasse following the brown tourist signs with some deviations because of road works yet again. A german man we spoke to said they were "digging up Germany"! Arrived at our next stop in time for lunch, a stellplatze by a lake with a kiosk selling bratty and chips. Ate lunch whilst watching the kite surfers.
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Thursday 30th April
Set off in search of water. The overnight parking at Rain was an extremely dusty patch of land so, despite Rain itself looking like an interesting place, we decided not to stop. The motorhome service area was clean however so we filled up with "Rain water" before leaving! Continued on our way to Donauworth where a large car park had a section for motorhomes - there were even tourist brochures in English.
After lunch we walked the short way into the town and wandered along the main street with its many imposing buildings. Most of the buildings in the heart of the town had been bombed in 1945 and totally destroyed, but they had been rebuilt to their original specifications.
Set off in search of water. The overnight parking at Rain was an extremely dusty patch of land so, despite Rain itself looking like an interesting place, we decided not to stop. The motorhome service area was clean however so we filled up with "Rain water" before leaving! Continued on our way to Donauworth where a large car park had a section for motorhomes - there were even tourist brochures in English.
After lunch we walked the short way into the town and wandered along the main street with its many imposing buildings. Most of the buildings in the heart of the town had been bombed in 1945 and totally destroyed, but they had been rebuilt to their original specifications.
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Friday 1st May
A very warm and sunny bank holiday so very busy everywhere. We stopped to explore the imposing Harburg Castle set high on a hill above the village. Sue thought we'd visited here in the past but I didn't remember. We parked and headed to the notice board which described how to pay for parking via the app. A few other people were pondering the same when someone came over and told us all that there was a machine which would take cash!
Harburg castle is one of the largest, oldest and best preserved castle fortresses in Southern Germany and as such dominates the village below. The castle's history can be traced back to 1150 - it was formally the royal seat of the Hohenstaufen. Many buildings of different periods and styles frame the large central area. From the castle walls there were magnificent views of the town and valley below.
A very warm and sunny bank holiday so very busy everywhere. We stopped to explore the imposing Harburg Castle set high on a hill above the village. Sue thought we'd visited here in the past but I didn't remember. We parked and headed to the notice board which described how to pay for parking via the app. A few other people were pondering the same when someone came over and told us all that there was a machine which would take cash!
Harburg castle is one of the largest, oldest and best preserved castle fortresses in Southern Germany and as such dominates the village below. The castle's history can be traced back to 1150 - it was formally the royal seat of the Hohenstaufen. Many buildings of different periods and styles frame the large central area. From the castle walls there were magnificent views of the town and valley below.
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We knew we were tempting fate by staying at Harburg castle so long, and we were concerned over the prospect of finding somewhere to stay tonight - it being a bank holiday and every man and his motorhome being on the road!
We drove to the village of Wassertrudingen but the overnight parking was full. We back tracked to Oettingen, famous for beer, and were lucky enough to find a spot on the stellplatz there. Again, the payment was by phone, alternatively you could pay at the tourist office which of course was closed.
Later in the afternoon, a man from the town council came to check everyone had paid. We explained we didn't have a smart phone and he happily accepted cash!
In the evening, when it was cooler, we wandered into the town.
We drove to the village of Wassertrudingen but the overnight parking was full. We back tracked to Oettingen, famous for beer, and were lucky enough to find a spot on the stellplatz there. Again, the payment was by phone, alternatively you could pay at the tourist office which of course was closed.
Later in the afternoon, a man from the town council came to check everyone had paid. We explained we didn't have a smart phone and he happily accepted cash!
In the evening, when it was cooler, we wandered into the town.
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Saturday 2nd May
We were off promptly, knowing we were in a popular tourist area and parking spaces would fill up quickly. It was a short drive to the beautiful, completely walled town of Dinkelsbuhl on the Rommantischestrasse. The stellplatz is close to the town wall and we were fortunate to get one of the few remaining spaces.
We headed into the old town following the walls with their numerous gate towers the whole way round as well as marvelling at the impressive town houses within. Fanciful gables, steep roofs, some with stork's nests, and pointed facades completed the picture. We stopped for lunch at a cafe in a park outside the walls only to be amazed when the proprietor spoke to us in English with a distinctly Yorkshire accent. It turned out that he was from Hull and had come to Germany on holiday twenty years ago, met a German girl, married her and stayed. We shared our story of getting engaged almost fifty years ago in Rothenburg just up the road!
We were off promptly, knowing we were in a popular tourist area and parking spaces would fill up quickly. It was a short drive to the beautiful, completely walled town of Dinkelsbuhl on the Rommantischestrasse. The stellplatz is close to the town wall and we were fortunate to get one of the few remaining spaces.
We headed into the old town following the walls with their numerous gate towers the whole way round as well as marvelling at the impressive town houses within. Fanciful gables, steep roofs, some with stork's nests, and pointed facades completed the picture. We stopped for lunch at a cafe in a park outside the walls only to be amazed when the proprietor spoke to us in English with a distinctly Yorkshire accent. It turned out that he was from Hull and had come to Germany on holiday twenty years ago, met a German girl, married her and stayed. We shared our story of getting engaged almost fifty years ago in Rothenburg just up the road!
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Sunday 3rd May
A fairly short drive on a flat road soon took us to Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a very special place for us for it was here, some forty nine years ago, that John proposed - very romantic as Rothenburg is the jewel in the crown on the aptly named Romantischstrasse.
Being a busy place, there is lots of parking outside the walls of the old town, including several for motorhomes, albeit at 20 euro overnight charge. However, we were only 30 metres from the town walls.
We wandered through the crowded streets and visited our favourite spots. On previous visit we had been in the Christmas Museum, the Medieval Crime and Justice Museum and the old partisan house. This visit we spent time in the Burg Garden, we had brought a picnic, with its views across the Tauber Valley and the southern turrets and walls. A poignant memorial chapel is dedicated to the Jewish population.
A fairly short drive on a flat road soon took us to Rothenburg ob der Tauber, a very special place for us for it was here, some forty nine years ago, that John proposed - very romantic as Rothenburg is the jewel in the crown on the aptly named Romantischstrasse.
Being a busy place, there is lots of parking outside the walls of the old town, including several for motorhomes, albeit at 20 euro overnight charge. However, we were only 30 metres from the town walls.
We wandered through the crowded streets and visited our favourite spots. On previous visit we had been in the Christmas Museum, the Medieval Crime and Justice Museum and the old partisan house. This visit we spent time in the Burg Garden, we had brought a picnic, with its views across the Tauber Valley and the southern turrets and walls. A poignant memorial chapel is dedicated to the Jewish population.
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When we got back to our motorhome we thought a coach had parked on the car park close to us and were anticipating fifty or so tourists arriving shortly!
Turned out it was probably the biggest, most expensive motorhome we had ever seen.
Monday 4th May
After a long weekend, shops were open again, so our first stop was a supermarket. We then headed for the autobahn. Under normal circumstances this would not have been a busy route and we should have been at our next destination, Giengen, much sooner. Again, we had a long slow journey with lots of road works.
The motorhome parking was near the caves. We were on our own when a man on a bike came round in the evening to collect the fee. After he'd gone, three more motorhomes arrived and left early the following morning!
Tuesday 5th May
We decided that from now on we were going to avoid the motorways and stick to the ordinary roads where, although there were still roadworks and detours, there weren't the long queues. A rather cross-country route took us to Scharndorf where the Steiff museum is located.
The museum was incredible with detailed visual action taking you through the story of how the button in the ear teddy bear story began. Today the bears are still hand stitched with each bear taking around 16hours to produce. We watched a technician working on a bear. As well as the multisensory displays there were exhibitions of the development of stuffed toys including the Beatrix Potter characters.
We decided that from now on we were going to avoid the motorways and stick to the ordinary roads where, although there were still roadworks and detours, there weren't the long queues. A rather cross-country route took us to Scharndorf where the Steiff museum is located.
The museum was incredible with detailed visual action taking you through the story of how the button in the ear teddy bear story began. Today the bears are still hand stitched with each bear taking around 16hours to produce. We watched a technician working on a bear. As well as the multisensory displays there were exhibitions of the development of stuffed toys including the Beatrix Potter characters.
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Overnight at Goppingen.
Wednesday 6th May
The weather is definitely on the change - cooler with rain showers.
After a month of warm, sunny weather the forecast is now rain for the foreseeable future. Drove to Nehren, hoping the outdoor swimming pool would be open but unfortunately it was still closed.
Thursday 7th May
We woke to a very wet front of cab with water dripping through the courtesy light! Our plan for the day changed drastically - a Knaus dealer was top priority.
Wednesday 6th May
The weather is definitely on the change - cooler with rain showers.
After a month of warm, sunny weather the forecast is now rain for the foreseeable future. Drove to Nehren, hoping the outdoor swimming pool would be open but unfortunately it was still closed.
Thursday 7th May
We woke to a very wet front of cab with water dripping through the courtesy light! Our plan for the day changed drastically - a Knaus dealer was top priority.
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Looking on the internet we found a motorhome dealer at the fairly close town of Herrenburg. Despite the website saying they were Knaus dealers it turned out that they weren't and couldn't help us. They directed us to a dealer in Knittlingen, 70 km away.
We arrived there at the start of their two hour lunchbreak. Five hours later, a mechanic looked at our motorhome and told us the leak was coming from a seal on the van roof and it was Fiat's responsibility and not Knaus.
We were a short way from Bretten were we had stayed almost three weeks ago, on the car park by the swimming pool, so headed there for the night.
Friday 8th May
From Scharndorf we had intended driving further into the Black Forest, then returning through the Vosges Mountains in France. However, we were now heading in the wrong direction and , with the threat of bad weather, we didn't want to be in the mountains. We were also concerned about getting the motorhome sorted out.
We decided we wanted to head back nearer to home so, after a quick swim, we set off on the long drive to Mettlach. The traffic was fairly light and there were no hold ups so we had a good run and arrived before the tourist office closed so that we could pay for the stellplatz. Otherwise it was another pay by phone on the app!
We arrived there at the start of their two hour lunchbreak. Five hours later, a mechanic looked at our motorhome and told us the leak was coming from a seal on the van roof and it was Fiat's responsibility and not Knaus.
We were a short way from Bretten were we had stayed almost three weeks ago, on the car park by the swimming pool, so headed there for the night.
Friday 8th May
From Scharndorf we had intended driving further into the Black Forest, then returning through the Vosges Mountains in France. However, we were now heading in the wrong direction and , with the threat of bad weather, we didn't want to be in the mountains. We were also concerned about getting the motorhome sorted out.
We decided we wanted to head back nearer to home so, after a quick swim, we set off on the long drive to Mettlach. The traffic was fairly light and there were no hold ups so we had a good run and arrived before the tourist office closed so that we could pay for the stellplatz. Otherwise it was another pay by phone on the app!
Saturday 9th May
After food shopping for the weekend we headed to Orscholz where there is a wonderful view across the deeply incised bend of the Saar river. Since we were last here the bridge across the Saar at Mettlach has been closed to larger vehicles and has a width and weight restriction, so we had a long way round to get there.
The motorhome car park, again new since our last visit, is further away so we had a longer walk through the grounds of the spa centre and through woods to the Saarschliefe. It was very busy but soon after we arrived a coach party left and it was a bit quieter.
After food shopping for the weekend we headed to Orscholz where there is a wonderful view across the deeply incised bend of the Saar river. Since we were last here the bridge across the Saar at Mettlach has been closed to larger vehicles and has a width and weight restriction, so we had a long way round to get there.
The motorhome car park, again new since our last visit, is further away so we had a longer walk through the grounds of the spa centre and through woods to the Saarschliefe. It was very busy but soon after we arrived a coach party left and it was a bit quieter.
Also new were the Tree Top Walk, which we didn't want, and a nice new cafe which we did want! Bratwurst mit pommes for lunch before setting off.
We headed off, stopping in Luxembourg for diesel before the long drive through the Ardennes. The motorway in Belgium was very quiet. Stopped for the night at the aire in the small village of Redu.
Sunday 10th May
A long, but for once, easy drive. The motorway was quiet and there were very few lorries. The weather was forecast for rain today but it stayed dry. We headed to Zonnebecke where we knew we could stay for the night.
After a late lunch we visited the castle grounds, the location of the Passchendale Memorial Museum 1917. We had previously visited here some years ago before all the gardens had been completed and wanted to see them now they were complete. There are eight memorial gardens, one for each of the countries involved in the conflict, each one set within red posts and circular in shape.
We headed off, stopping in Luxembourg for diesel before the long drive through the Ardennes. The motorway in Belgium was very quiet. Stopped for the night at the aire in the small village of Redu.
Sunday 10th May
A long, but for once, easy drive. The motorway was quiet and there were very few lorries. The weather was forecast for rain today but it stayed dry. We headed to Zonnebecke where we knew we could stay for the night.
After a late lunch we visited the castle grounds, the location of the Passchendale Memorial Museum 1917. We had previously visited here some years ago before all the gardens had been completed and wanted to see them now they were complete. There are eight memorial gardens, one for each of the countries involved in the conflict, each one set within red posts and circular in shape.
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The rain that had been expected earlier came overnight. We had chosen a sheltered spot under the trees and tucked up against a hedge. Fortunately not too much rain got in and the front of the van was only a little damp.
Monday 11th May
First thing in the morning we took a short walk through the museum grounds to look at the church which had been destroyed during the battle, the memorial and the dugout.
Monday 11th May
First thing in the morning we took a short walk through the museum grounds to look at the church which had been destroyed during the battle, the memorial and the dugout.
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After visiting the excellent supermarket at Zonnebeke, we headed to Tyne Cot WW1 Military Cemetery - very moving but so many lives lost. All the cemeteries around Ypres are beautifully maintained with fresh flowers at every grave.
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We had wanted to go back to our sheltered spot at Zonnebeke but we needed to fill up with fresh water so headed to the aire at Esquelbecq. En route, the road was blocked, with no signed detour, and how ever hard we tried, we didn't seem to be able to find the right road. Turning round in a side street, a local man drove past us and told us to follow him. We finally got on the right road and headed to the aire.
Next problem, we needed a decal for the water. A sign indicated where these were available so we wandered into the town, visiting four shops before we found one that had decals, which at 5euros each was the most we'd ever paid for water!
Tuesday 12th May
It stayed dry overnight and today looks set to be a reasonable day. We wandered over the little bridge and through the park to the town square, passing the chateau which is in private hands and not open to the public, a shame as it looked a very interesting building from what could be seen from the outside.
Dating back to the 10th century, the castle has retained its original plan with eight towers and stepped gables, surrounded by a wide moat. Over the centuries it had various owners and by the 1800s it was in a poor state of repair. Between 1940 and 1944, the estate was occupied by the Germans and in 1946 it was turned into a family home. The present owners are currently restoring it and intend opening it to the public.
Wandered round the town square and bought some chips from the Friterie and took them back to the motorhome for lunch. We asked for a small portion!
Next problem, we needed a decal for the water. A sign indicated where these were available so we wandered into the town, visiting four shops before we found one that had decals, which at 5euros each was the most we'd ever paid for water!
Tuesday 12th May
It stayed dry overnight and today looks set to be a reasonable day. We wandered over the little bridge and through the park to the town square, passing the chateau which is in private hands and not open to the public, a shame as it looked a very interesting building from what could be seen from the outside.
Dating back to the 10th century, the castle has retained its original plan with eight towers and stepped gables, surrounded by a wide moat. Over the centuries it had various owners and by the 1800s it was in a poor state of repair. Between 1940 and 1944, the estate was occupied by the Germans and in 1946 it was turned into a family home. The present owners are currently restoring it and intend opening it to the public.
Wandered round the town square and bought some chips from the Friterie and took them back to the motorhome for lunch. We asked for a small portion!