Germany and Denmark 2024
Wednesday 3rd July A quick and uneventful drive to Dover enabled us to catch an earlier ferry. As in April the ferry was very quiet. Drove to Arques stopping to buy food for dinner tonight and tomorrow. Stayed overnight on the aire by the fishing lake. John, still having problems with his right knee, was trying to build up his walking so took a stroll round the lake.
Thursday 4th July Headed for Ypres, Ghent and Antwep. Our route took us through the historic hill-top town of Cassel, very picturesque but we could have done without the cobbled main street! A large number of lorries on the road round Antwerp amnd very slow. From Antwerp we drove to Vooselaar and stayed overnight on the aire by a sports centre. John was away a long time on his “stroll” round the sports centre. The path took him round four football pitches, twelve tennis courts and the club house!
Friday 5th July
Drove via Eindhoven and Venlo to the German border. Avoided the busy autobahns around the Ruhr, taking quieter roads to Dulmen where we intended to stay the night. Stellplatz was in the centre of town and facilities were not working so we moved on to Havixbeck which had a stellplatz in a quiet residential area with good facilities.
Saturday 6th July
After stopping for diesel and then a food shop we headed north on the autobahn. About 20km west of Bremen and Hamburg we left the busy autobahn and headed north towards Bremen and hamburg. Our overnight halt was again by a sports centre, this time in Selsingen. Fortunately we managed a walk before a summer storm hit the area.
Sunday 7th July
A very frustrating morning’s drive due to a succession of road closures and lengthy diversions. Arrived in time for lunch at the Hanseatic town of Stade. Parked by the harbour, free on Sundays, and found a harbour side café for Kibbeling. We then wandered the medieval star shaped town with its preserved fortifications, merchant houses lining the harbour and many half-timbered buildings.
A short drive north through fertile farm land and orchards took us to the small harbour town of Wischafen near the mouth of the Elbe where a popular stellplatz provide our home for the night.
Thursday 4th July Headed for Ypres, Ghent and Antwep. Our route took us through the historic hill-top town of Cassel, very picturesque but we could have done without the cobbled main street! A large number of lorries on the road round Antwerp amnd very slow. From Antwerp we drove to Vooselaar and stayed overnight on the aire by a sports centre. John was away a long time on his “stroll” round the sports centre. The path took him round four football pitches, twelve tennis courts and the club house!
Friday 5th July
Drove via Eindhoven and Venlo to the German border. Avoided the busy autobahns around the Ruhr, taking quieter roads to Dulmen where we intended to stay the night. Stellplatz was in the centre of town and facilities were not working so we moved on to Havixbeck which had a stellplatz in a quiet residential area with good facilities.
Saturday 6th July
After stopping for diesel and then a food shop we headed north on the autobahn. About 20km west of Bremen and Hamburg we left the busy autobahn and headed north towards Bremen and hamburg. Our overnight halt was again by a sports centre, this time in Selsingen. Fortunately we managed a walk before a summer storm hit the area.
Sunday 7th July
A very frustrating morning’s drive due to a succession of road closures and lengthy diversions. Arrived in time for lunch at the Hanseatic town of Stade. Parked by the harbour, free on Sundays, and found a harbour side café for Kibbeling. We then wandered the medieval star shaped town with its preserved fortifications, merchant houses lining the harbour and many half-timbered buildings.
A short drive north through fertile farm land and orchards took us to the small harbour town of Wischafen near the mouth of the Elbe where a popular stellplatz provide our home for the night.
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Monday 8th July The morning started with a 25 minute car ferry journey across the Elbe from Wischafn to Glückerstadt. From there we headed north following the Elbe to Brunsbüttel then following the coast to the small inland village of Lunden. The overnight parking was the seaward side of a dyke beside the small river Eider and turned out to be a very popular spot
Tuesday 9th July
We headed out to the coast to see the stilt houses of Ording. Here structures on stilts are clustered on the wide flat sands which are backed by low sand dunes. Further along the coast we stopped at the massive Eider-Speerwek that controls the flow of the Eider and visited the historic harbour at Tönning. We then returned to the stellplatz at Lunden.
We headed out to the coast to see the stilt houses of Ording. Here structures on stilts are clustered on the wide flat sands which are backed by low sand dunes. Further along the coast we stopped at the massive Eider-Speerwek that controls the flow of the Eider and visited the historic harbour at Tönning. We then returned to the stellplatz at Lunden.
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Wednesday 10th July
We woke to a dull, drizzly morning, so after food shopping in Friedrichstadt we headed north to Husum. The stellplatz there was very full and not particularly pleasant so we continued on towards the Danish border. Had a quiet afternoon and parked overnight at Bredstedt.
Thursday 11th July
A bright sunny day. We stocked up with food at Aldi and filled up with diesel before continuing north to the Danish border. The route was through pleasant agricultural land and small villages. Our destination was Ribe, a town we particularly wanted to visit as it was twinned with our home town Ely.
A large, very busy motorhome stop over is located very close to the town which is Scandinavia’s oldest, with Viking and early Christian Heritage. The narrow cobbled streets radiate out from the cathedral whose foundations date back to 1150. Picturesque half timbered houses line the streets. Two hundred and thirty six steps give access to the viewing platform at the top of the square 14th century cathedral bell tower. It was an exhausting climb up a steep spiral stone stair case followed by a series of narrow wooden stairs.
We woke to a dull, drizzly morning, so after food shopping in Friedrichstadt we headed north to Husum. The stellplatz there was very full and not particularly pleasant so we continued on towards the Danish border. Had a quiet afternoon and parked overnight at Bredstedt.
Thursday 11th July
A bright sunny day. We stocked up with food at Aldi and filled up with diesel before continuing north to the Danish border. The route was through pleasant agricultural land and small villages. Our destination was Ribe, a town we particularly wanted to visit as it was twinned with our home town Ely.
A large, very busy motorhome stop over is located very close to the town which is Scandinavia’s oldest, with Viking and early Christian Heritage. The narrow cobbled streets radiate out from the cathedral whose foundations date back to 1150. Picturesque half timbered houses line the streets. Two hundred and thirty six steps give access to the viewing platform at the top of the square 14th century cathedral bell tower. It was an exhausting climb up a steep spiral stone stair case followed by a series of narrow wooden stairs.
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Friday 12th July
Heading in a north westerly direction towards the North Sea coast we arrived at the small settlement of Nymindegab from where we followed the scenic coast road. This follows a narrow land strip between the coast with its high sand dunes and Ringkøbing Fjord, a large stretch of water that has only one outlet into the North Sea at Søndervig.
We walked through the sand dunes to the sea for a walk along the coast. After a quick visit to a sand sculpture park followed by lunch we continued along the coast road with its series of holiday homes and parks. Our overnight parking was beside an alternative education centre which was built by its students. Powering the centre is “Tvindkraft”, the worlds’ first wind turbine, built in protest against the use of nuclear power.
Heading in a north westerly direction towards the North Sea coast we arrived at the small settlement of Nymindegab from where we followed the scenic coast road. This follows a narrow land strip between the coast with its high sand dunes and Ringkøbing Fjord, a large stretch of water that has only one outlet into the North Sea at Søndervig.
We walked through the sand dunes to the sea for a walk along the coast. After a quick visit to a sand sculpture park followed by lunch we continued along the coast road with its series of holiday homes and parks. Our overnight parking was beside an alternative education centre which was built by its students. Powering the centre is “Tvindkraft”, the worlds’ first wind turbine, built in protest against the use of nuclear power.
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Saturday 13th July
After a quiet night we woke to a damp and drizzly day.
We headed north to visit the open air museum, Hjert Hede. Here are examples of mainly rural farm buildings. Costumed guides were a font of knowledge. The whole site was set out as if it were a rural settlement.
We ate lunch in the restaurant which had been a game keeper’s cottage.
Unfortunately the onset of heavy persistent rain forced our visit to be cut short. Parked overnight (with permission) on the museum car park.
After a quiet night we woke to a damp and drizzly day.
We headed north to visit the open air museum, Hjert Hede. Here are examples of mainly rural farm buildings. Costumed guides were a font of knowledge. The whole site was set out as if it were a rural settlement.
We ate lunch in the restaurant which had been a game keeper’s cottage.
Unfortunately the onset of heavy persistent rain forced our visit to be cut short. Parked overnight (with permission) on the museum car park.
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Sunday 14th July
Headed back to the main road and stopped briefly to view the historic church in the hamlet of Sahle. The graveyard was unusual as each grave was set in a large pitch surrounded by a low hedge.
All day heavy, thundery black clouds dominated the skyline – luckily we were only caught out in one heavy shower. For much of the drive we were travelling along the shore of Limforden, Denmark’s largest body of inland water.
After a longish drive through gently rolling countryside we stopped at Brønderslev for the night.
Headed back to the main road and stopped briefly to view the historic church in the hamlet of Sahle. The graveyard was unusual as each grave was set in a large pitch surrounded by a low hedge.
All day heavy, thundery black clouds dominated the skyline – luckily we were only caught out in one heavy shower. For much of the drive we were travelling along the shore of Limforden, Denmark’s largest body of inland water.
After a longish drive through gently rolling countryside we stopped at Brønderslev for the night.
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Monday 15th July
A huge storm and torrential rain all night. The car park were we were staying was inches deep in water with the wave blowing it into waves! We headed off hoping it would improve.
An hour’s drive took us to the Skagen peninsula where the North Sea meets the Baltic. International shipping passed very close to the shoreline of the spit at Grenen.
Just south of the bustling holiday resort of Skagen is the Råbjerk Mile, the largest drifting sand dune in Europe. It is moving at an approximate rate of 15 metres each year. The dune formed on the west coast in the 16th century and is predicyed to reach the road running up the east coast of the peninsula within a century. Den Tilsundede Church was once the largest in the Skagen area. Nowadays only its white tower is visible – the nave was eventually demolished after 1795 when it became impossible for the worshippers to dig their way in to attend services.
A huge storm and torrential rain all night. The car park were we were staying was inches deep in water with the wave blowing it into waves! We headed off hoping it would improve.
An hour’s drive took us to the Skagen peninsula where the North Sea meets the Baltic. International shipping passed very close to the shoreline of the spit at Grenen.
Just south of the bustling holiday resort of Skagen is the Råbjerk Mile, the largest drifting sand dune in Europe. It is moving at an approximate rate of 15 metres each year. The dune formed on the west coast in the 16th century and is predicyed to reach the road running up the east coast of the peninsula within a century. Den Tilsundede Church was once the largest in the Skagen area. Nowadays only its white tower is visible – the nave was eventually demolished after 1795 when it became impossible for the worshippers to dig their way in to attend services.
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Our final stop for the day was further south near Aalborg. Just west of the town is Lindholm Hoje, the largest Iron Age and Viking burial ground in Denmark. It was not discovered until 1952 due to sand deposits. Nearly 700 graves have been unearthed all demarcated by boulders all laid out in the shape of a ship. The older burials are at the lower end of the mound, the newer at the top.
Overnight on the museum car park, with permission.
Overnight on the museum car park, with permission.
Tuesday 16th July
We woke to yet another dull day but at least it was dry for our visit to the Fyrkat Viking farmstead – a reconstructed collection of the buildings comprising a nobleman’s estate, as were common at the time of Harald Bluetooth, around the year 980. This was the time when Denmark was united into a single kingdom. (A thousand years later Bluetooth wireless technology was named after the king, based on the analogy that it would unite devices in the same way Harald Bluetooth united the tribes of Denmark!)
Fyrkat ring fortress, a UNESCO world heritage site, was located close by. It is one of five fortresses built during the reign of Harald Bluetooth. Nothing remains of the fortress but earth ramparts have been reconstructed to the exact measurements of the original. Close by is a re-constructed longhouse, white stones mark the location of 16 further longhouses.
From here we headed towards Silkeborg to view Tollund man, one of the best preserved peat bodies in the world. Overnight in the golf club carpark.
We woke to yet another dull day but at least it was dry for our visit to the Fyrkat Viking farmstead – a reconstructed collection of the buildings comprising a nobleman’s estate, as were common at the time of Harald Bluetooth, around the year 980. This was the time when Denmark was united into a single kingdom. (A thousand years later Bluetooth wireless technology was named after the king, based on the analogy that it would unite devices in the same way Harald Bluetooth united the tribes of Denmark!)
Fyrkat ring fortress, a UNESCO world heritage site, was located close by. It is one of five fortresses built during the reign of Harald Bluetooth. Nothing remains of the fortress but earth ramparts have been reconstructed to the exact measurements of the original. Close by is a re-constructed longhouse, white stones mark the location of 16 further longhouses.
From here we headed towards Silkeborg to view Tollund man, one of the best preserved peat bodies in the world. Overnight in the golf club carpark.
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Wednesday 17th July
Arrived early and we were first into the museum so managed to see Tollund man without the crowds. Alongside Tollund man is Elling woman. Both were found with reed ropes around their necks indicating that they had been hung. The bodies have been dated to over 2,500 years old. Archaeologists generally agree that they were victims of human sacrifice, perhaps a ritual killing to ensure fertility. The state of their preservation is quite remarkable.
Arrived early and we were first into the museum so managed to see Tollund man without the crowds. Alongside Tollund man is Elling woman. Both were found with reed ropes around their necks indicating that they had been hung. The bodies have been dated to over 2,500 years old. Archaeologists generally agree that they were victims of human sacrifice, perhaps a ritual killing to ensure fertility. The state of their preservation is quite remarkable.
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The small village of Jelling is home to a UNESCO world heritage site which was originally the home of two kings who lived there during the Viking age. In front of the small church are two carved stones, both which are inscribed with runic writing. The smaller stone was erected by Gorm the Old around AD950. It is inscribed “Gorm King made these memories of Thyra, his wife, the strength/aide of Denmark”.
The second, larger rune stone is believed to be the more important stone. Here the inscription reads “Harald King ordered the making of these memories of Gorm, his father and of Thyra, his mother, the Harald who won all of Denmark and Norway and Christianised the Danes”.
The two mounds that stand on either side of the church do not contain burials. The southern mound is solid while the northern mound contained a burial chamber but no body. However, inside the small church, bones discovered under the floor are believed to have been those of Gorm and it is possible that these may have been relocated from the empty chamber.
Within the area of the 1.5 km palisade, now marked with tall wooden markers, is the site of a stone ship, 354 metres in length and containing 370 monoliths.
The second, larger rune stone is believed to be the more important stone. Here the inscription reads “Harald King ordered the making of these memories of Gorm, his father and of Thyra, his mother, the Harald who won all of Denmark and Norway and Christianised the Danes”.
The two mounds that stand on either side of the church do not contain burials. The southern mound is solid while the northern mound contained a burial chamber but no body. However, inside the small church, bones discovered under the floor are believed to have been those of Gorm and it is possible that these may have been relocated from the empty chamber.
Within the area of the 1.5 km palisade, now marked with tall wooden markers, is the site of a stone ship, 354 metres in length and containing 370 monoliths.
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From Jelling, we drove to Fredericia, now a busy port but originally a fortress town built in 1650. We had to drive through an elaborate gateway in the high grass covered outer defence bank to reach our overnight halt. Located by the harbour with views across the Little Belt to the bridge on the island of Funen. When we arrived a lot of fishermen were lining the harbour wall and a large ship was preparing to leave but we were soon on our own and had a very peaceful night.
Thursday 18th July
After leaving Fredericia we used the motorway, heading south to cross the border into Germany. Our first stop was at Scleswig, the small town that gives its name to the province of Schleswig Holstein. We parked in the motorhome stellplatz close to the old town and the tourist office. Here we were given a leaflet describing a walk through the small but charming old town. It was very picturesque, wandering around the cobbled streets where fishermen’s cottages nestled in the shadow of the St. Petri cathedral. The cathedral dates back to the 12th century but a “make-over” and addition of a tall tower in the 19th century gives it a modern appearance.
From Scleswig we headed south towards Kiel where we once again crossed the Kiel canal. We tried to stop at a stellplatz with views overlooking the canal but all the canal side pitches were occupied so we decided to head on to Bordeshelm for our night stop.
Thursday 18th July
After leaving Fredericia we used the motorway, heading south to cross the border into Germany. Our first stop was at Scleswig, the small town that gives its name to the province of Schleswig Holstein. We parked in the motorhome stellplatz close to the old town and the tourist office. Here we were given a leaflet describing a walk through the small but charming old town. It was very picturesque, wandering around the cobbled streets where fishermen’s cottages nestled in the shadow of the St. Petri cathedral. The cathedral dates back to the 12th century but a “make-over” and addition of a tall tower in the 19th century gives it a modern appearance.
From Scleswig we headed south towards Kiel where we once again crossed the Kiel canal. We tried to stop at a stellplatz with views overlooking the canal but all the canal side pitches were occupied so we decided to head on to Bordeshelm for our night stop.
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Friday 19th July
It was about an hour’s drive, mainly along the autobahn to Wismar, a former Hanseatic town, now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
After checking in at the centrally located stellplatz – large, busy and well appointed – we headed into the centre of the compact town. Despite considerable damage during WW2, many of the old buildings in the heart of the town have been sympathetically restored. One exception is the Marienkirch most of which was so badly damaged that only the 80 metre tower remains. Restoration of the old city centre is ongoing.
The Markt Square with its elaborate water pumping station dating from 1580, is enclosed by many imposing buildings – the jumble of facades and the neo-classical Town Hall and ornate gables capture the eye in every direction.
It was about an hour’s drive, mainly along the autobahn to Wismar, a former Hanseatic town, now listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
After checking in at the centrally located stellplatz – large, busy and well appointed – we headed into the centre of the compact town. Despite considerable damage during WW2, many of the old buildings in the heart of the town have been sympathetically restored. One exception is the Marienkirch most of which was so badly damaged that only the 80 metre tower remains. Restoration of the old city centre is ongoing.
The Markt Square with its elaborate water pumping station dating from 1580, is enclosed by many imposing buildings – the jumble of facades and the neo-classical Town Hall and ornate gables capture the eye in every direction.
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Saturday 20th July
Another hot day. A lot of roadworks with subsequent delays and detours.
Our first stop was at Schwerin where we parked and walked a short distance to view the fairy-tale castle which was built for Paul Frederich Franz II between 1854 and 1857 in a neo-classical style inspired by Chambord Chateau on the Loire in France.
From Schwerin we headed south to the river Elbe which until 1989 was the border between East and West Germany. A drive along the former western side of the river took us through a number of small picturesque villages where storks were nesting on the top of poles.
Overnight on a busy motorhome area by a small lake at Gartow. "Schnelli" for tea!
Another hot day. A lot of roadworks with subsequent delays and detours.
Our first stop was at Schwerin where we parked and walked a short distance to view the fairy-tale castle which was built for Paul Frederich Franz II between 1854 and 1857 in a neo-classical style inspired by Chambord Chateau on the Loire in France.
From Schwerin we headed south to the river Elbe which until 1989 was the border between East and West Germany. A drive along the former western side of the river took us through a number of small picturesque villages where storks were nesting on the top of poles.
Overnight on a busy motorhome area by a small lake at Gartow. "Schnelli" for tea!
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Sunday 21st July
A short but interesting drive through woodland and open countryside, roughly following the Elbe but with few glimpses of the river.
We stopped at Hitzacher, a small beautifully restored town set on a small island close to the Elbe. Parked in the stellplatz, a small neat and tidy place with nice views of the river – we wished we’d known it was there as we would have stayed there last night!
Hitzacker was founded in 1162 but in the area there is evidence of earlier settlement. The town suffered from severe flooding over the centuries until modern flood defences were constructed in 2008. The old town consisted of a plethora of beautifully preserved half timbered houses – interestingly each building had information on its original use and a list of its inhabitants.
A short but interesting drive through woodland and open countryside, roughly following the Elbe but with few glimpses of the river.
We stopped at Hitzacher, a small beautifully restored town set on a small island close to the Elbe. Parked in the stellplatz, a small neat and tidy place with nice views of the river – we wished we’d known it was there as we would have stayed there last night!
Hitzacker was founded in 1162 but in the area there is evidence of earlier settlement. The town suffered from severe flooding over the centuries until modern flood defences were constructed in 2008. The old town consisted of a plethora of beautifully preserved half timbered houses – interestingly each building had information on its original use and a list of its inhabitants.
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We then continued to follow the Elbe northwards, stopping for lunch at a wooden viewpoint tower. After climbing the 84 steps there was an excellent view of the river.
Our overnight was in Luneburg on a rather expensive stellplatz. A short walk took you into the heart of the old town. There were some fine old buildings but no information about them and the tourist office was closed.
Luneburg was on the old salt trail and it was through salt that it owed its fortune. Sadly the salt is now causing problems with many buildings leaning including the west tower of St. Johannskirche which is displaced from the vertical by 2 metres.
Our overnight was in Luneburg on a rather expensive stellplatz. A short walk took you into the heart of the old town. There were some fine old buildings but no information about them and the tourist office was closed.
Luneburg was on the old salt trail and it was through salt that it owed its fortune. Sadly the salt is now causing problems with many buildings leaning including the west tower of St. Johannskirche which is displaced from the vertical by 2 metres.
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Monday 22nd July
A damp drizzly day. Wandered back into Luneburg for more sightseeing before heading to Salzhausen.
Tuesday 23rd July
A short drive to Underloh, a small hamlet on Lüneburg Heath, a place we have visited many times. In fact, after I met John it was our first day out together. In the past we have always parked overnight on the main car park in the wood but this time we chose a small stellplatz on a farm.
We had hoped to take a kutschwagen to Wilsede (we normally walk there and back but decided it was too far for John at present) but the only ones running were private hire for hotel guests. Instead we did a circular walk taking us through woodland, heath and arable farmland, a total of around 8km (5 miles). John managed okay but his legs were hurting by the end of it.
Fortunately at the end of the walk there was an imbis. Bratwurst mit pommies for lunch. John spent the afternoon resting whilst I did some shopping - jars of honey and other Luneburg Heide goodies for presents.
A damp drizzly day. Wandered back into Luneburg for more sightseeing before heading to Salzhausen.
Tuesday 23rd July
A short drive to Underloh, a small hamlet on Lüneburg Heath, a place we have visited many times. In fact, after I met John it was our first day out together. In the past we have always parked overnight on the main car park in the wood but this time we chose a small stellplatz on a farm.
We had hoped to take a kutschwagen to Wilsede (we normally walk there and back but decided it was too far for John at present) but the only ones running were private hire for hotel guests. Instead we did a circular walk taking us through woodland, heath and arable farmland, a total of around 8km (5 miles). John managed okay but his legs were hurting by the end of it.
Fortunately at the end of the walk there was an imbis. Bratwurst mit pommies for lunch. John spent the afternoon resting whilst I did some shopping - jars of honey and other Luneburg Heide goodies for presents.
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Wednesday 24th July
We were reluctant to leave Lüneburg Heath but John’s knee would not have coped with another long walk. We headed south through Rinteln on the Weser (where we had lived 47 years ago and where our three children were born) and on to the Teutoberge Wald, stopping for the night at Blomberg.
Thursday 25th July
Drove to Detmold where we wanted to visit the Westphalia open air museum, the largest in Germany. Despite living so close we never visited it during our time in Rinteln We followed the signs to the museum’s parking which turned out to be a 1½ km walk to the actual museum!
The museum was divided into areas with each one displaying buildings from that region. It was a hot day and we were both very tired so didn’t manage to reach the furthest point – a 1960’s petrol station. As John pointed out, we had seen plenty of those when driving Route 66.
We were reluctant to leave Lüneburg Heath but John’s knee would not have coped with another long walk. We headed south through Rinteln on the Weser (where we had lived 47 years ago and where our three children were born) and on to the Teutoberge Wald, stopping for the night at Blomberg.
Thursday 25th July
Drove to Detmold where we wanted to visit the Westphalia open air museum, the largest in Germany. Despite living so close we never visited it during our time in Rinteln We followed the signs to the museum’s parking which turned out to be a 1½ km walk to the actual museum!
The museum was divided into areas with each one displaying buildings from that region. It was a hot day and we were both very tired so didn’t manage to reach the furthest point – a 1960’s petrol station. As John pointed out, we had seen plenty of those when driving Route 66.
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Our second “must see” of the day was the enormous statue “Hermannsdenkmal” which dominates the Teutoburger Wald above the town of Detmold. “Hermann the German” as the statue is often called, united the local tribes in 9 AD to destroy three Roman legions at the Battle of Teutoburger Wald.
Our overnight halt was beside the lake at Sande. Unfortunately to get there involved a 5km detour through the busy, narrow streets of Paderborn, as the gates and lights at a railway crossing had jammed.
Friday 26th July
A disturbed night due to heavy rain followed by constant dripping as we were parked under trees. The car park was very muddy when we left. A cross country drive took us to Ascheburg where we had planned to stay the night. However, the fair was in town and had taken over the stellplatz. Continued on to Senden where we parked by the sports centre.
Our overnight halt was beside the lake at Sande. Unfortunately to get there involved a 5km detour through the busy, narrow streets of Paderborn, as the gates and lights at a railway crossing had jammed.
Friday 26th July
A disturbed night due to heavy rain followed by constant dripping as we were parked under trees. The car park was very muddy when we left. A cross country drive took us to Ascheburg where we had planned to stay the night. However, the fair was in town and had taken over the stellplatz. Continued on to Senden where we parked by the sports centre.
Saturday 27th July
A short drive took us to Rees, a pleasant spot on the banks of the Rhine. We had previously stayed there when we took the Harwich to Hook of Holland ferry during Covid. The large, well organised site was busy at this time of year but there was room for us.
After lunch we walked into the historic centre, the tourist office was supposed to have wifi but we were unable to connect. However, we managed to download emails and whatsapp messages at Lidl.
Rees is the oldest city of the Lower Rhineland. We had followed the entire historic town trail, 1½ km in length, on our previous visit, so this time we walked along the Rhine promenade with the river to one side of us and on the other side, the historic town walls with their watch towers built about AD1470.
A short drive took us to Rees, a pleasant spot on the banks of the Rhine. We had previously stayed there when we took the Harwich to Hook of Holland ferry during Covid. The large, well organised site was busy at this time of year but there was room for us.
After lunch we walked into the historic centre, the tourist office was supposed to have wifi but we were unable to connect. However, we managed to download emails and whatsapp messages at Lidl.
Rees is the oldest city of the Lower Rhineland. We had followed the entire historic town trail, 1½ km in length, on our previous visit, so this time we walked along the Rhine promenade with the river to one side of us and on the other side, the historic town walls with their watch towers built about AD1470.
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Sunday 28th July
We spent a second day in the walled town of Rees. A bench by the town walls enabled us to watch the ships passing along the Rhine, those heading down stream passing quickly whilst those in the opposite direction proceeded much more slowly.
We took the ferry across the river to the site of “New Rees”. Here in 1598 the Spanish had started the “entrenchment of Rees” to protect the town, by 1614 the Dutch who by then occupied Rees built a star shaped fortress of wood and earth. Unfortunately nothing remains of it, but we had a pleasant little boat trip crossing the Rhine. All the other passengers had bikes and were taking a circular trip returning over the road bridge but we had to go both ways on the ferry.
We spent a second day in the walled town of Rees. A bench by the town walls enabled us to watch the ships passing along the Rhine, those heading down stream passing quickly whilst those in the opposite direction proceeded much more slowly.
We took the ferry across the river to the site of “New Rees”. Here in 1598 the Spanish had started the “entrenchment of Rees” to protect the town, by 1614 the Dutch who by then occupied Rees built a star shaped fortress of wood and earth. Unfortunately nothing remains of it, but we had a pleasant little boat trip crossing the Rhine. All the other passengers had bikes and were taking a circular trip returning over the road bridge but we had to go both ways on the ferry.
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Monday 29th July
After shopping for beer, wine and some German food, we started our journey back home, driving through Holland and stopping for the night in the Belgium town of Oud Turnhout.
Tuesday 30th July
A long journey with heavy traffic and lengthy delays especially round Antwerp. Stopped to shop in Lidl and Auchan in St. Omer before heading to Arques for the night.
Wednesday 31st July
Drove to Calais. Took an early morning ferry and drove home.
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After shopping for beer, wine and some German food, we started our journey back home, driving through Holland and stopping for the night in the Belgium town of Oud Turnhout.
Tuesday 30th July
A long journey with heavy traffic and lengthy delays especially round Antwerp. Stopped to shop in Lidl and Auchan in St. Omer before heading to Arques for the night.
Wednesday 31st July
Drove to Calais. Took an early morning ferry and drove home.
[click] to return to Home page