Northern Spain 2025
Tuesday 19th August
Sue wanted to see “Longest Yarn 2: Britain at War” which was being shown at the Chiltern Open Air Museum so we set off a couple of days early.
On the way down we visited Hughenden House where Disraeli lived from 1948 to 1881. The Victorian house was filled with his personal memorabilia. An additional exhibition explained how, during the Second World War, the basement was used as a secret intelligence base code named "Hillside". The UK Air Ministry staff at the manor analysed aerial photography of Germany and created maps for bombing missions, including the "Dam Busters" raid. This history remained hidden for sixty years and only came to light when a visitor was overheard telling his grandson that he had worked there during the war!
Sue wanted to see “Longest Yarn 2: Britain at War” which was being shown at the Chiltern Open Air Museum so we set off a couple of days early.
On the way down we visited Hughenden House where Disraeli lived from 1948 to 1881. The Victorian house was filled with his personal memorabilia. An additional exhibition explained how, during the Second World War, the basement was used as a secret intelligence base code named "Hillside". The UK Air Ministry staff at the manor analysed aerial photography of Germany and created maps for bombing missions, including the "Dam Busters" raid. This history remained hidden for sixty years and only came to light when a visitor was overheard telling his grandson that he had worked there during the war!
Wednesday 20th August
After a quiet night at the Brit Stop "The Hit or Miss" pub located in Penn Street near Amersham we spent the day at the Chiltern Open Air Museum. The partly finished version of the British "Longest Yarn" was on display there. A number of panels were not finished in time but will be by 2026 when Peterborough Cathedral are due to host it.
After a quiet night at the Brit Stop "The Hit or Miss" pub located in Penn Street near Amersham we spent the day at the Chiltern Open Air Museum. The partly finished version of the British "Longest Yarn" was on display there. A number of panels were not finished in time but will be by 2026 when Peterborough Cathedral are due to host it.
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The open air museum featured a number of buildings from the local area plus nissen huts, a pre-fab and a "grow all you can" war-time garden.
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Overnight again at "The Hit or Miss" pub. It was burger night which was delicious and very reasonable.
Thursday 21st August
On the way down to Portsmouth we visited Hinton Ampner, a neo-Georgian manor with a 20th-centuary garden, featuring 17th/18th century Italian paintings, Georgian furniture, and a library.
Saturday 23rd August
Arrived Bilbao and after stocking up with food at Aldi, got off the fast road and took a beautiful scenic drive through steep sided valleys between the peaks of the mountains to our first overnight stop, a well appointed aire at Onati.
Sunday 24th August
Our drive today was very twisty and narrow but extremely picturesque. As it was Sunday there were more cyclists than cars! As it was very hot, almost 40°C we stopped early and spent the afternoon relaxing, having fortunately found an aire with nice shady pitches under the trees.
Monday 25th August
After stopping to shop at Lidl we drove round the Pamplona ring road and headed east into the Pyrenees. The foothills were forested and the villages were almost alpine in nature. Our destination was the pretty village of Ochagavia. Here the Salazar river banks are lined with attractive stone and timber houses linked by six stone bridges.
Thursday 21st August
On the way down to Portsmouth we visited Hinton Ampner, a neo-Georgian manor with a 20th-centuary garden, featuring 17th/18th century Italian paintings, Georgian furniture, and a library.
Saturday 23rd August
Arrived Bilbao and after stocking up with food at Aldi, got off the fast road and took a beautiful scenic drive through steep sided valleys between the peaks of the mountains to our first overnight stop, a well appointed aire at Onati.
Sunday 24th August
Our drive today was very twisty and narrow but extremely picturesque. As it was Sunday there were more cyclists than cars! As it was very hot, almost 40°C we stopped early and spent the afternoon relaxing, having fortunately found an aire with nice shady pitches under the trees.
Monday 25th August
After stopping to shop at Lidl we drove round the Pamplona ring road and headed east into the Pyrenees. The foothills were forested and the villages were almost alpine in nature. Our destination was the pretty village of Ochagavia. Here the Salazar river banks are lined with attractive stone and timber houses linked by six stone bridges.
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Tuesday 26th August
Continued to follow the Salazar valley south and out of the Pyrenees. We made a stop at Javier. Next to the large monastery is the small, but imposing Castillo. This was the birthplace of San Francisco Xavier (15-06-52) who travelled all over the far east and died in China.
Continued to follow the Salazar valley south and out of the Pyrenees. We made a stop at Javier. Next to the large monastery is the small, but imposing Castillo. This was the birthplace of San Francisco Xavier (15-06-52) who travelled all over the far east and died in China.
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From here a short drive took us to the hill top town of Sos del Rey Católico. Much as we would have loved to explore the town it was very hot and the open air swimming pool right next to the overnight parking seemed a far better attraction!
Wednesday 27th August
In the cool of the next morning we explored the old town, with its maze of narrow cobbled streets lined with ancient tall town houses. From Sos del Rey Católico we drove the scenic winding road east passing through picturesque villages until we reached the incised valley of the river Gallego with its incredible rock formations. A short detour took us to the small village of Agüero nestled beneath the massive Mallos de Agüero.
Wednesday 27th August
In the cool of the next morning we explored the old town, with its maze of narrow cobbled streets lined with ancient tall town houses. From Sos del Rey Católico we drove the scenic winding road east passing through picturesque villages until we reached the incised valley of the river Gallego with its incredible rock formations. A short detour took us to the small village of Agüero nestled beneath the massive Mallos de Agüero.
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Our plan was to overnight at Jaca but as a result of long delays and roadworks, by the time we got there the motorhome aire was full. A twisty narrow road with many blind bends took us to Aisa where we found a large car park with lots of motorhome spaces.
Thursday 28th August
Next morning we took a longer but easier road back to Jaca continuing on through the valley to Sabinango. From here we headed into the heart of the mountains and took a scenic road from Buscas to the next valley, de Broto.
We stopped overnight at Fiscal on a campsite with beautiful mountain views.
Thursday 28th August
Next morning we took a longer but easier road back to Jaca continuing on through the valley to Sabinango. From here we headed into the heart of the mountains and took a scenic road from Buscas to the next valley, de Broto.
We stopped overnight at Fiscal on a campsite with beautiful mountain views.
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Friday 29th August
A short drive from Fiscal took us to the historic town of Ainsa. Here, an elongated ridge, is dominated by the walls of the ancient town. The arcaded walls of the stone fort were originally surrounded by a moat.The four towers have survived. Leading from the fort is the 12th century Plazo Mayor. The broad cobbled square is surrounded by arcaded houses. The Romanesque church of Iglesia de Santa Maria, whose belfry dominates the plaza, was consecrated in 118. Two cobbled streets lead down to the lower gate of the walled town.
A short drive from Fiscal took us to the historic town of Ainsa. Here, an elongated ridge, is dominated by the walls of the ancient town. The arcaded walls of the stone fort were originally surrounded by a moat.The four towers have survived. Leading from the fort is the 12th century Plazo Mayor. The broad cobbled square is surrounded by arcaded houses. The Romanesque church of Iglesia de Santa Maria, whose belfry dominates the plaza, was consecrated in 118. Two cobbled streets lead down to the lower gate of the walled town.
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Stayed overnight at the large car park at Ainsa.
Saturday 30th August
After buying food for the weekend at the small supermacado we drove a scenic route south from Ainsa with views across the braided Rio Cinca which had been dammed for hydro-electric power.
Just north of Barbastro we turned into a spectacular gorge with some incredible rock formations, where the road went through nine tunnels.
At the end of the gorge we took the road heading north back towards Ainsa, passing a large lake which had a sandy beach and pedalos for hire.
Arrived back at Ainsa in time for another wander round the town and an ice cream!
Sunday 31st August
A fairly short drive this morning leaving the Pyrenees behind and taking the fast road south towards Lleida. Parked overnight at La Granja de Escarpe. The motorhome parking here had covered bays providing shelter from the sun, wide views across the valley of the river Cinca and an open air swimming pool right next door.
Monday 1st September
Next morning we found a tiny village shop that provided all we needed. We followed the George Orwell trail, visiting the places where he had fought during the Spanish Civil War in 1936. Parked overnight at a very busy aire in Zaragoza.
Saturday 30th August
After buying food for the weekend at the small supermacado we drove a scenic route south from Ainsa with views across the braided Rio Cinca which had been dammed for hydro-electric power.
Just north of Barbastro we turned into a spectacular gorge with some incredible rock formations, where the road went through nine tunnels.
At the end of the gorge we took the road heading north back towards Ainsa, passing a large lake which had a sandy beach and pedalos for hire.
Arrived back at Ainsa in time for another wander round the town and an ice cream!
Sunday 31st August
A fairly short drive this morning leaving the Pyrenees behind and taking the fast road south towards Lleida. Parked overnight at La Granja de Escarpe. The motorhome parking here had covered bays providing shelter from the sun, wide views across the valley of the river Cinca and an open air swimming pool right next door.
Monday 1st September
Next morning we found a tiny village shop that provided all we needed. We followed the George Orwell trail, visiting the places where he had fought during the Spanish Civil War in 1936. Parked overnight at a very busy aire in Zaragoza.
Tuesday 2nd September
After a surprisingly quiet night we headed to Trasmoz hoping to shop at the Carrefour supermarket. Unfortunately there was a height barrier so we found a small local store which again had all we wanted. We then visited the Monasterio de Veruela. The Cistercian monastery is fortified to protect the monks and their buildings - the high perimeter wall is nearly a kilometre long. Entry to the complex was through a medieval watchtower, passing the late 16th century priory where the abbot, the warehouse manager and the chemist lived. Unfortunately, all the information boards were only in Spanish. The main church dated back to the 12/13th century. The cloisters were built in Gothic style.
After a surprisingly quiet night we headed to Trasmoz hoping to shop at the Carrefour supermarket. Unfortunately there was a height barrier so we found a small local store which again had all we wanted. We then visited the Monasterio de Veruela. The Cistercian monastery is fortified to protect the monks and their buildings - the high perimeter wall is nearly a kilometre long. Entry to the complex was through a medieval watchtower, passing the late 16th century priory where the abbot, the warehouse manager and the chemist lived. Unfortunately, all the information boards were only in Spanish. The main church dated back to the 12/13th century. The cloisters were built in Gothic style.
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A few miles further on from the monastery we stopped at the aire in Trasmos which had amazing views across the valley.
Wednesday 3rd September
From the tiny village of Trasmos where we couldn't even find a shop to buy bread, we headed to the hilltop town of Tarazona. After a steep climb we found ourselves in a maze of narrow alleys and stone streets. No signs or plans gave us any indication of where we were in the town so it was pure luck that we found our way back to the motorhome!
From the tiny village of Trasmos where we couldn't even find a shop to buy bread, we headed to the hilltop town of Tarazona. After a steep climb we found ourselves in a maze of narrow alleys and stone streets. No signs or plans gave us any indication of where we were in the town so it was pure luck that we found our way back to the motorhome!
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Our next stop was at Tudela where we found a Carrefour supermarket, giving us a chance to replenish our stocks. From there we went to view the amazing rock formations in the Bardenas Reales National Park before heading to the partially walled old town of Olite. We wandered into the town with its two magnificent churches and extensive ornate Palacio.
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Thursday 4th September
We continued westward passing a number of hill top villages, each consisting of a few old houses clustered around a church. We made a brief stop in Puente la Reina to view the impressive Roman bridge before taking the fast road to Oyón Oin. Here our overnight halt was located by the swimming pool where we spent the rest of the afternoon.
Friday 5th September
Another hot day. For our final push west we headed first into Logroño where we found a Carrefour without a height barrier! From there we took the motorway west to Burgos. We took the main road west following one of the routes of the Camino de Compostela. We passed many pilgrims who looked very hot and tired. Leaving the main road and heading down narrow lanes we arrived at Villadolid for our overnight halt.
We continued westward passing a number of hill top villages, each consisting of a few old houses clustered around a church. We made a brief stop in Puente la Reina to view the impressive Roman bridge before taking the fast road to Oyón Oin. Here our overnight halt was located by the swimming pool where we spent the rest of the afternoon.
Friday 5th September
Another hot day. For our final push west we headed first into Logroño where we found a Carrefour without a height barrier! From there we took the motorway west to Burgos. We took the main road west following one of the routes of the Camino de Compostela. We passed many pilgrims who looked very hot and tired. Leaving the main road and heading down narrow lanes we arrived at Villadolid for our overnight halt.
Saturday 6th September
Our destination today was Astorga, sited on the crossroads of the Camino de Santiago pilgrims’ route and the Roman Silver Road. The partially walled town has numerous Roman ruins dotted around. The Episcopal Palace, designed by modernist Antonio Gaudí in 1887 stands next to the Gothic Santa Maria Cathedral built between 1471 and 1693.
Our destination today was Astorga, sited on the crossroads of the Camino de Santiago pilgrims’ route and the Roman Silver Road. The partially walled town has numerous Roman ruins dotted around. The Episcopal Palace, designed by modernist Antonio Gaudí in 1887 stands next to the Gothic Santa Maria Cathedral built between 1471 and 1693.
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From Astorga we drove on single track tortuous roads to Ponferrada which turned out to be a sprawling industrial town - luckily we got one of the last spaces on the overnight motorhome parking area.
Sunday 7th September
Before leaving Ponferrada we walked the short distance to see the impressive Knights' Templar castle which was built between 1218 and 1350. Its towers and battlements dominate the area. Originally the castle was built to protect the pilgrims travelling to Santiago de Compostela.
Sunday 7th September
Before leaving Ponferrada we walked the short distance to see the impressive Knights' Templar castle which was built between 1218 and 1350. Its towers and battlements dominate the area. Originally the castle was built to protect the pilgrims travelling to Santiago de Compostela.
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From Ponferrada we took the scenic route towards Lugo. At times the road was very tortuous as it wound up the valley. Much of the route paralleled the main A6 with its many bridges and viaducts. Our plan was to find a stopping point by a swimming pool. We found two but in both cases the pool had closed. Perhaps that's the end of outdoor pools for the year. Although still warm during the day nights are getting cooler so it probably costs too much to heat them.
Found overnight parking at Barralla.
Monday 8th September
Drove to Lugo, the oldest of Galicia's provincial capitals. The old town was completely walled in the 1st/2nd century by the Romans and is still intact. We drove round the very busy ring road circling the walls but couldn't find anywhere to stop and park.
Continued on to the coast where we found a beautiful spot right beside the beach. Free parking, a lovely little cafe and cold showers!
Found overnight parking at Barralla.
Monday 8th September
Drove to Lugo, the oldest of Galicia's provincial capitals. The old town was completely walled in the 1st/2nd century by the Romans and is still intact. We drove round the very busy ring road circling the walls but couldn't find anywhere to stop and park.
Continued on to the coast where we found a beautiful spot right beside the beach. Free parking, a lovely little cafe and cold showers!
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Tuesday 9th September
A short journey following the valley of the Rio Narcea took us in towards the foothills of the Cantabria mountains which stretch east west inland from the Costa Verde. Our first stop was the small town of Salas. The town was once home to Fernando de Valdes Salas, founder of Oviedo University and General Inquisitor under Philip II of Spain and his castle and the 10th century church of San Martin dominate the town square.
Driving through the town we took a wrong turn and ended up on a cart track getting narrower and steeper up the mountainside! Ended up having to reverse a long way back down.
From Salas we drove a spectacular road through the mountains to our overnight halt in Grada.
A short journey following the valley of the Rio Narcea took us in towards the foothills of the Cantabria mountains which stretch east west inland from the Costa Verde. Our first stop was the small town of Salas. The town was once home to Fernando de Valdes Salas, founder of Oviedo University and General Inquisitor under Philip II of Spain and his castle and the 10th century church of San Martin dominate the town square.
Driving through the town we took a wrong turn and ended up on a cart track getting narrower and steeper up the mountainside! Ended up having to reverse a long way back down.
From Salas we drove a spectacular road through the mountains to our overnight halt in Grada.
Wednesday 10th September
From Grada, a short drive took us to the start of the beautiful Trubia valley with its tiny villages, steep gorges and fast flowing river. We decided to stop late morning in Teverga, a small village with an overnight halt with a beautiful view.
Thursday 11th September
We started the day by heading a short way further up the valley to visit the Prehistoric Park. Here a large building displays copies of cave art found in various European countries whilst outside are full size models of prehistoric animals and a reconstructed prehistoric settlement. In one paddock were a number of Konik horses, a breed that has been developed to recreate the primitive looks of the Tarpan horses that became extinct at the beginning of the 19th century. From the park we drove deeper into the mountains along an increasingly narrow road with no crash barrier and huge drops. We decided to turn round and head towards Pajares on a wider road, ending up at a ski resort where we parked for the night. The tinkling of cow bells lulled us to sleep.
From Grada, a short drive took us to the start of the beautiful Trubia valley with its tiny villages, steep gorges and fast flowing river. We decided to stop late morning in Teverga, a small village with an overnight halt with a beautiful view.
Thursday 11th September
We started the day by heading a short way further up the valley to visit the Prehistoric Park. Here a large building displays copies of cave art found in various European countries whilst outside are full size models of prehistoric animals and a reconstructed prehistoric settlement. In one paddock were a number of Konik horses, a breed that has been developed to recreate the primitive looks of the Tarpan horses that became extinct at the beginning of the 19th century. From the park we drove deeper into the mountains along an increasingly narrow road with no crash barrier and huge drops. We decided to turn round and head towards Pajares on a wider road, ending up at a ski resort where we parked for the night. The tinkling of cow bells lulled us to sleep.
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Friday 12th September
The mountains were still in the mist as we descended back down to the main road and the valley. From there we headed north for a while before driving east along a wide valley to Cabañaquinta. Despite being a marked as a main road on the map it turned out to be tortuous, narrow and steep with blind bends and huge drops. We parked overnight at Pola de Laviana.
Saturday 13th September
We had planned on another day driving through the Picos de Europa mountains but soon decided to abort. The scenery is spectacular with steep gorges and spectacular mountains but the very nature of the terrain dictates that even main roads are scary. After a while our shattered nerves could stand no more and we headed for flatter land. Tomorrow we will head for the coast.
Sunday 14th September
On our way to the coast we detoured to visit the Monastery de Valdedios. The pre-Romanesque church was founded in 893 whilst the nearby Cistercian Monastery dates from 1200. As there was a service taking place in the main church there was no access until the afternoon.
The mountains were still in the mist as we descended back down to the main road and the valley. From there we headed north for a while before driving east along a wide valley to Cabañaquinta. Despite being a marked as a main road on the map it turned out to be tortuous, narrow and steep with blind bends and huge drops. We parked overnight at Pola de Laviana.
Saturday 13th September
We had planned on another day driving through the Picos de Europa mountains but soon decided to abort. The scenery is spectacular with steep gorges and spectacular mountains but the very nature of the terrain dictates that even main roads are scary. After a while our shattered nerves could stand no more and we headed for flatter land. Tomorrow we will head for the coast.
Sunday 14th September
On our way to the coast we detoured to visit the Monastery de Valdedios. The pre-Romanesque church was founded in 893 whilst the nearby Cistercian Monastery dates from 1200. As there was a service taking place in the main church there was no access until the afternoon.
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From the monastery we headed for the east-west coast highway and spent the night at Camping Playa Sauces.
Monday 15th September
Yesterday had been glorious hot weather but today dawned dismal and drizzly. We drove the short distance to the aire at Lanes. The description in our guide was encouraging but it turned out to muddy with little grass and no facilities.
Tuesday 16th September
It's still very much beach weather here, hot and sunny, and there are a lot of young people, couples without children or those with pre-school age children enjoying seaside holidays. So it's still very busy. We followed the coast looking for somewhere to stop. Two aires we found were closed and the campsites we were full. We decided to give up on the seaside and headed back inland. Stopped at Aguilar de Campoo, an interesting town with many historic buildings all with information boards. A perfect place to explore before we settled for the night.
Monday 15th September
Yesterday had been glorious hot weather but today dawned dismal and drizzly. We drove the short distance to the aire at Lanes. The description in our guide was encouraging but it turned out to muddy with little grass and no facilities.
Tuesday 16th September
It's still very much beach weather here, hot and sunny, and there are a lot of young people, couples without children or those with pre-school age children enjoying seaside holidays. So it's still very busy. We followed the coast looking for somewhere to stop. Two aires we found were closed and the campsites we were full. We decided to give up on the seaside and headed back inland. Stopped at Aguilar de Campoo, an interesting town with many historic buildings all with information boards. A perfect place to explore before we settled for the night.
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Wednesday 17th September
Headed to Ona, a small village that clung to the side of a deep incised valley. A very hot day. Once it was cooler I left John and wandered into the village with my camera.
Headed to Ona, a small village that clung to the side of a deep incised valley. A very hot day. Once it was cooler I left John and wandered into the village with my camera.
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Thursday 18th September
The start of a quiet few days heading back towards Bilbao. Drove to Oyon-Oion, a pleasant overnight halt beside an open air swimming pool. Unfortunately the pool was closed. With temperatures in the high 30's, a cool dip would have been appreciated.
Friday 19th September
A fairly direct cross country route on a very quiet road took us to Pamplona. We then headed north to our overnight halt at Irutsun.
Saturday 20th September
A short drive along the motorway took us to the nature reserve of Maturana.
Sunday 21st September
Our final day in Spain. Drove to Bilbao and stayed on the motorhome aire high up on the cliff with magnificent views over the town. Tomorrow we have an early start for the ferry home.
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The start of a quiet few days heading back towards Bilbao. Drove to Oyon-Oion, a pleasant overnight halt beside an open air swimming pool. Unfortunately the pool was closed. With temperatures in the high 30's, a cool dip would have been appreciated.
Friday 19th September
A fairly direct cross country route on a very quiet road took us to Pamplona. We then headed north to our overnight halt at Irutsun.
Saturday 20th September
A short drive along the motorway took us to the nature reserve of Maturana.
Sunday 21st September
Our final day in Spain. Drove to Bilbao and stayed on the motorhome aire high up on the cliff with magnificent views over the town. Tomorrow we have an early start for the ferry home.
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