Florida and the Deep South
Friday 29th April
Another day heading further into the Deep South. This was very noticeable as all the rivers we crossed had large areas of swamp on either side of them. We passed through a number of towns with historic centres dating back to the early settler. Georgia was the thirteenth British colony and is now mainly a rural state.
Overnight at Walmart, Brunswick.
Saturday 30th April
We both slept badly last night due to the heat. Putting just a foot outside is like walking into an oven - we certainly know that we are getting near to the tropics. Last night was like being on a RV park not a supermarket car park - when we woke up we were completely surrounded by gargantuan vehicles towing cars and trailers. Each one was taking up 10 to 17 parking spaces - we fit on one. There was hardly any room for Walmarts customers to park!
It was no better as we headed south into Florida. We were constantly being overtaken by these vehicles.
We stopped in St Augustine for lunch. This was the first Spanish settlement and dates back to 1565. Unfortunately everywhere was very busy and despite the historical importance of the town, we didn't stop to explore its colonial quarter. Part of our decision was not just the crowds but the fact that the area had been turned into a mini-historical theme park.
Overnight at Walmart on the outskirts of Orlando. This is one of the few towns in Florida that has no ordnance against overnight parking.
Sunday 1st May
Wow, what a day, one which we can only describe as awesome. We spent the entire day at NASA's Kennedy Space Center on Cape Canaveral. The weather was perfect and it was hard to believe that only a month ago the whole area had been the scene of a launch of a vertical landing rocket.
We began the day by taking an interesting bus tour past various launch pads, a crawler transporter and associated river rock gravel track which took the rocket four miles to the launch pad - this was the closest safe distance for the launch and the launch control centre.
Next stop was at the Appollo/Saturn V centre where we watched a couple of films about the programme and viewed numerous exhibits, including touching a piece of space rock. A full size Saturn 5 rocket was suspended from the roof and information about each Appollo mission formed the main part of the exhibition.
After returning to the main visitor complex we visited the Atlantis Space Shuttle exhibition which also had a Hubble Space Telescope and a Shuttle Launch Experience - we chose not to subject our ageing bodies to this!
The rocket garden displayed the actual rockets from the Mercury, Gemini and Appollo programmes.
There were a number of 3D big screen films to view. We chose to watch "A Beautiful Planet". This gave us views of the inside of a space station as well as amazing views of Earth from space.
We ended our day back in Orlando.
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Monday 2nd May
Today we headed further south. The first part of our route took us to Lake Okeechobae, so vast it can be seen from space. To prevent flooding in the rainy season, the lake edge is surrounded by a dyke, so the only way to see it was to head up onto the dyke which we did when we found a road up to a sluice gate - it made a pleasant lunch halt. Originally the Everglades extended right up to the lake shore but there is now extensive farming in the area with irrigation channels leading off in all directions. Sugar cane and sweet corn seemed to be the main crops.
We headed for the coast and Palm Beach. Here was a different world - luxury mansions and apartment blocks lined the coast road, many with their own individual boat launching ramps. John was busy car spotting - a Rolls Royce, two Bentleys, three Aston Martins, two Ferraris, a Lamborghini and a Bugatti all in the space of less than half a mile!
While driving through this area we were pulled over by a police patrol car. The officer told us that it was illegal to drive a British registered car on the streets of America. He asked to see all our paperwork. We tried to explain that we were legal, we had been allowed into the country by customs and had altogether spent a total of seven months in the USA with no questions asked. The officer said he needed to check with his boss and probably issue us with a written caution. He went back to his car, then five minutes later he came back and told us we were free to go!
We ended the day by hitting rush hour traffic so were late getting to our overnight at the Walmart in Hialeah on the outskirts of Miami.
Tuesday 3rd May
After a very hot and humid night we woke to temperatures of over 35 deg C.
We spent the morning negotiating our way through the horrendous traffic in and around Miami. We eventually emerged at the bridge across to Miami Beach.
Miami Beach was devastated by a hurricane in 1926 after which the damaged buildings were rebuilt in the new Art Deco style. We cruised along Ocean Drive with its broad beach side park, but it was impossible to park so we could only spot the rich and famous as they strolled along the sidewalk or sat in pavement cafes and restaurants.
Some two hours after leaving Miami Beach we eventually left the traffic chaos behind. We followed the Overseas Highway 20 miles south passing swamps and islands until we reached Key Largo, the gateway to the Florida Keys and the 100 mile spectacular drive to Key West.
Overnight at John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park.
After a very hot and humid night we woke to temperatures of over 35 deg C.
We spent the morning negotiating our way through the horrendous traffic in and around Miami. We eventually emerged at the bridge across to Miami Beach.
Miami Beach was devastated by a hurricane in 1926 after which the damaged buildings were rebuilt in the new Art Deco style. We cruised along Ocean Drive with its broad beach side park, but it was impossible to park so we could only spot the rich and famous as they strolled along the sidewalk or sat in pavement cafes and restaurants.
Some two hours after leaving Miami Beach we eventually left the traffic chaos behind. We followed the Overseas Highway 20 miles south passing swamps and islands until we reached Key Largo, the gateway to the Florida Keys and the 100 mile spectacular drive to Key West.
Overnight at John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park.
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Wednesday 4th May
This morning we took a glass bottom boat tour out to the Molasses Coral Reef, part of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary. The reef lies just a few miles off shore.
Unfortunately there was a group of poorly disciplined school children on board. Their behaviour was such that the rest of the passengers could barely hear the narrated commentary. They were charging around, shouting and screaming whilst their teachers ignored them. The boat crew took the decision to lock them out of the main cabin area and leave them on the upper deck in the full sunshine! They asked us all to lodge a formal complaint when we got back.
The reef was interesting to view with incredible coral formations and a wide variety of colourful marine life.
We then drove down through the keys towards Key West. Each island whether inhabited or not, are linked by numerous bridges, the longest being 7 miles long. Alongside the new bridge are remains of the older road and rail bridge, built in the 1920's and now rotting away. There were a few stopping places but in general the road was lined with shops, fast-food outlets, marinas and RV parks. As no wild camping is allowed we had to book into campground for the night. At the first site we were told that Nicolle was too small! They only allowed RVs over 24 ft in length. We eventually reached Boyd's Campground, the most southerly camp in USA. For the princely sum of 63 dollars we were given a tent pitch, no electrics, no water, no daylight as we were under trees and bushes and not much space. For 145 dollars we could have had a fully serviced RV pitch, 205 dollars a night gives you an ocean view pitch!
We also had a thunderstorm with lightening and torrential rain. Unfortunately the rain has done little to lower the temperature or humidity.
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Thursday 5th May
We made an early start so that we could visit Key West and then drive back down the keys today. We parked easily and wandered the streets looking at the lovely old houses, far more typically Cuban than American. We visited Ernest Hemingway's house with all its six- toed cats. It was an interesting tour then we were free to wander at will. Hemingway owned the house for thirty years but only lived there for ten. Whilst there he wrote most of his novels, in his study which was the hayloft above the carriage house, connected by a walkway from the main building. I found a shady seat and left John wandering longer, he came back with a list of Hemingway's books he wanted to read or re-read - he admitted to reading " Farewell to Arms" and " For Whom the Bell Tolls" three times already!
The southernmost point of the US is marked by a large buoy - this is a large BUOY, though with so many burgers and fries, cookies and apple pie there are plenty of large boys! This is a very busy part of town as every visitor seemed to want to be photographed beside it.
After a break for a slice of Key Lime pie we started our journey back north. The different colours of the sea were much more noticeable today after the storm - turquoise closer to shore and azure caused by the Gulf Stream.
A change of overnight spot today - the RV section of the Miccosukee Resort and Gaming.
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Friday 6th May
Today we headed into the Everglades National Park which stretches across virtually the whole southern tip of mainland Florida. It is a tranquil wildlife reserve just a few feet above sea level. It's landscape is like nowhere else on earth. Within the park there are a number of different habitats and many areas are inaccessible.
We visited the freshwater marsh area named Shark Valley - no sharks and not even a valley! Here it is possible to take a 15 mile guided tram ride into the heart of the swamp otherwise only accessible by air boat. This is because an oil company built a road and drilling platform into the swamp only to discover that there was too much water in the oil. The road remains and an observation tower has been built on the drilling platform.
The landscape is a wide, shallow, slow-moving river of spiky saw-grass blades with the occasional island a few inches above water level where copses of trees and bushes grow. We saw lots of alligators, turtles, hawks and other birds. Fortunately we did not see any poisonous snakes or Burmese Pythons!
Our overnight stop was at Semolina Casino and Hotel. They provided free RV parking but did not provide rice pudding.
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Saturday 7th May
A long day's driving north up the Interstate Highway. Overnight at Walmart, Chiefland.
Sunday 8th May
Another travelling day mainly across the Florida panhandle. Much of the scenery was endless mixed woodland. It is now much hotter, reminiscent of the temperatures along the Florida Keys.
Monday 9th May
After a relatively short drive we reached the Louisiana Welcome Centre where we were told we could park for the night. It will be noisy as a busy Interstate Highway is close but at least it means that we can head into New Orleans first thing in the morning. The lady in the centre was most helpful.
Tuesday 10th May
We had a good night's sleep. Traffic quietened down in the evening and we were far enough away from the lorries not to be disturbed by them. We headed into New Orleans.
"In 2016 we took a little trip. Well we told all the folks, that the British were a'coming!
Along with our Nicolle down the mighty Mississip. And they made us much more welcome
We took a little tuna and we took some baked beans. then they did the time before!
And we went to hear some music, We stayed a while and then we went a-driving,
in the town of New Orleans. way down the Mississippi to the Bay of Mexico."
New Orleans is situated on both banks of the muddy Mississippi River and bounded by the massive Lake Pontchartrain, more inland sea than lake, to the north. (We crossed the lake by means of a series of bridges.) Parking in the city, near to the famous French Quarter was easy and it was not too expensive.
The French Quarter is a vibrant area full of street musicians and quirky shops, cafes and bars. The ornate filigree cast-iron balconies of many of the old houses were covered with ferns and scented jasmine, adding to the exotic feel to the place. We wandered the streets for hours, admiring the buildings and listening to endless jazz bands that also wandered the streets and set up where ever they fancied.
Along the river bank we stopped to watch the steamboat "Natchez" set off. Before its departure a "calliope" concert entertained both those on ship and those on land - it was very loud!
Wandered through the French Market and broused the stalls. Didn't fancy any of the food, seemed to be too spicy, lots of sea food and alligator. Settled for burgers and fries.
Overnight at Walmart, Kenner.
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Wednesday 11th May
Along the Mississippi between New Orleans and Baton Rouge, Route 18 is called the historic river road. Along this road there are a number of antebellum houses built by plantation owners. Each plantation bordered the Mississippi for ease of transporting their crop be it cotton, sugar cane or tobacco to New Orleans, so the plantations tended to be long and thin (10 miles by 1 mile). Slaves were employed to work either in the opulent mansions or in the fields.
We visited Oak Alley Plantation. Leading up to the house is a magnificent alley of oak trees , planted 100 years before the house was planned. They reminded us of the Dark Edges in Ireland. The owner's house is built in the Greek Revival style and dates from 1839. A costumed guide showed us around the house.
A group of slave quarters gave an insight into the horrific conditions the slaves had to endure.
As we drove along the river road we passed more of the former plantation houses before stopping for the night at Plaquemine.
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Thursday 12th May
We continued following the river road to Baton Rouge - too much industrial areas along the banks of the Mississippi to make us want to linger there.
We continued north to Natchez - a scenic and almost traffic free route. Although we were following the edge of the Mississippi valley, it was impossible to see the river.
At Natchez we turned on to the Natchez Trace Parkway which is 444 miles long ending at Nashville, Tennessee. This scenic, quiet route has links off to the main highways, but otherwise the road is continuous and separate. It follows the line of a rough trail first trodden in the early 1800s. Along its route there are information boards and places of interest to stop at and explore. Today we stopped at Emerald Mound, a ceremonial mound built and used between 1200 - 1730 by Mississippi American Indians. We also stopped to view the Mount Locust Inn, one of the oldest structures in the area, dating from 1784.
Overnight at Vicksburg, Mississippi.
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Friday 13th May
We started the day by visiting an excellent vantage point overlooking the Mississippi River. For most of the time the river has been hidden by high levees and as American roads are not known for their lay-bys, we have been unable to stop and climb the levee to see the river.
The land was extensively cultivated, tobacco and maize seemed to be the predominant crops although there was also evidence of cotton. After lunch we stopped to view the Winterville mounds, one of the largest Native American mound sites in the United States. Unfortunately all was closed and we couldn't gain access to the mounds.
On the way to Clarksdale we passed a laundrette and car wash so caught up on the washing and gave Nicolle a much needed wash. Overnight at Clarksdale, Mississippi.
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