North to Northumberland – and a little beyond!
Of course we had all hoped that travel would be easier this year but that proved not to be the case. Last year we had managed to get away to Germany for five weeks and we were hoping to do the same this year.
After coming out of the second Coronavirus lockdown in 2021 the school holidays were upon us, campsites were booked solid and everywhere was ludicrously busy. We decided to wait until September with the hope that things would be quieter.
Germany was on the “Green List” but the cost of covid testing on return home was ridiculous. The Government was recommending “staycations” so we decided we would spend another year exploring England’s “Green and Pleasant Land”.
Come September the children went back to school but campsites were still booked solid. We managed to book three campsites, one day each only, giving us the opportunity to empty the toilet and fill up with water! The rest of the time would have to be carparks.
Of course we had all hoped that travel would be easier this year but that proved not to be the case. Last year we had managed to get away to Germany for five weeks and we were hoping to do the same this year.
After coming out of the second Coronavirus lockdown in 2021 the school holidays were upon us, campsites were booked solid and everywhere was ludicrously busy. We decided to wait until September with the hope that things would be quieter.
Germany was on the “Green List” but the cost of covid testing on return home was ridiculous. The Government was recommending “staycations” so we decided we would spend another year exploring England’s “Green and Pleasant Land”.
Come September the children went back to school but campsites were still booked solid. We managed to book three campsites, one day each only, giving us the opportunity to empty the toilet and fill up with water! The rest of the time would have to be carparks.
Monday 6th September
Left home and drove to Peterborough where we were hoping to fill up the gas bottle with LPG at Morrisons. The machine wasn’t working!
Traffic was heavy and journey was very slow. Drove up the A1 to Wetherby and on to Skipton.
Parked overnight on Coach Street Car Park, Fish and Chips overlooking the canal for tea.
Left home and drove to Peterborough where we were hoping to fill up the gas bottle with LPG at Morrisons. The machine wasn’t working!
Traffic was heavy and journey was very slow. Drove up the A1 to Wetherby and on to Skipton.
Parked overnight on Coach Street Car Park, Fish and Chips overlooking the canal for tea.
Tuesday 7th September
Food shopping and breakfast at Morrison’s, then drove to Settle and onwards to Ribblehead Viaduct. Had a lovely walk from roadside parking to the viaduct, bought an ice cream then relaxed in the sun before returning to the car park in Settle for our overnight stop.
Food shopping and breakfast at Morrison’s, then drove to Settle and onwards to Ribblehead Viaduct. Had a lovely walk from roadside parking to the viaduct, bought an ice cream then relaxed in the sun before returning to the car park in Settle for our overnight stop.
Wednesday 8th September
Visited Hawes, one of our favourite places. Wandered round the town, bought pies at the butchers, further provisions at Elijah’s and sweets and icecream at the Old Sweet Shop. The post box and lamp post had lovely knitted scenes on them. On returning to the car park we were treated to the sight of lots of Aston Martins, there was obviously an Aston Martin Owners Club meeting there.
Visited Hawes, one of our favourite places. Wandered round the town, bought pies at the butchers, further provisions at Elijah’s and sweets and icecream at the Old Sweet Shop. The post box and lamp post had lovely knitted scenes on them. On returning to the car park we were treated to the sight of lots of Aston Martins, there was obviously an Aston Martin Owners Club meeting there.
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On leaving Hawes we headed down Wensleydale and Swaledale. We were overtaken by several Aston Martins as well as a Bentley Continental and a Ferrari!
Stopped for lunch at Reeth, then onto our first campsite, the Camping and Caravanning Club Site at Barnard Castle.
Thursday 9th September
After several days of glorious sunny weather and above average temperature, the weather broke. It rained heavily overnight and the rain continued on and off all day. Headed north up the A1 to Saint Abbs Harbour, just over the Scottish Border. Our research had discovered that we could park there overnight for £10, Honesty Box in Harbour Master's shed by the harbour. Our parking spot was inches from the rocky shore with only a chain link separating us and views were magnificent. We managed a short walk round the harbour before heavy rain forced us indoors.
Stopped for lunch at Reeth, then onto our first campsite, the Camping and Caravanning Club Site at Barnard Castle.
Thursday 9th September
After several days of glorious sunny weather and above average temperature, the weather broke. It rained heavily overnight and the rain continued on and off all day. Headed north up the A1 to Saint Abbs Harbour, just over the Scottish Border. Our research had discovered that we could park there overnight for £10, Honesty Box in Harbour Master's shed by the harbour. Our parking spot was inches from the rocky shore with only a chain link separating us and views were magnificent. We managed a short walk round the harbour before heavy rain forced us indoors.
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Friday 10th September
A short drive back south took us to Berwick upon Tweed. Many years ago we had walked part of the Lowry Trail around the town and we wanted to do the rest. Parked at the Castlegate Car Park and walked the entire length of the Elizabethan walls encircling the town. Information plaques located at points of interest explained both the defensive structures as well as the places where Lowry painted many of his pictures. Lowry visited Berwick on numerous occasions and even considered buying a house in the town. Bought a packet of Berwick Cockles from the sweetshop where they were invented and are still made. Weather was cloudy and dull but the rain held off.
A short drive back south took us to Berwick upon Tweed. Many years ago we had walked part of the Lowry Trail around the town and we wanted to do the rest. Parked at the Castlegate Car Park and walked the entire length of the Elizabethan walls encircling the town. Information plaques located at points of interest explained both the defensive structures as well as the places where Lowry painted many of his pictures. Lowry visited Berwick on numerous occasions and even considered buying a house in the town. Bought a packet of Berwick Cockles from the sweetshop where they were invented and are still made. Weather was cloudy and dull but the rain held off.
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Overnight parking proved a problem. The campsite we were heading for was in lockdown as a result of positive coronavirus tests. A farm shop in the Brit Stops guide offering overnight parking. Their restaurant was fully booked for the evening but we bought pies for tea and stayed for breakfast next morning.
Saturday 11th September
Drove the short distance to the causeway across to Lindisfarne. The tide had only just gone out and there was still a lot of seawater lapping over the causeway. The jetwash will be needed when we get home to get rid of the salt! Wandered round the village, priory and graveyard and walked out to the castle. We had visited the castle on a previous visit so did not go inside. Obviously time was at a premium as we had to get back before the tide came in.
Saturday 11th September
Drove the short distance to the causeway across to Lindisfarne. The tide had only just gone out and there was still a lot of seawater lapping over the causeway. The jetwash will be needed when we get home to get rid of the salt! Wandered round the village, priory and graveyard and walked out to the castle. We had visited the castle on a previous visit so did not go inside. Obviously time was at a premium as we had to get back before the tide came in.
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On our return to the carpark we passed a fish and chip van. Lunch sorted. Huge portions and absolutely delicious. Whilst sitting eating them friends from back home, who we hadn’t seen since lockdown, passed by. We only had time for a brief chat as time and tide waits for no man. Whilst crossing the causeway we had another thorough soaking. The driver in front wanted to play in the puddles in his SUV – boys will be boys!
A short drive took us to Bamburgh Castle. Booking was on-line and we hadn’t been able to do that but they let us in anyway, they even provide a golf buggy to take us up the steep hill and back again at the end of our visit.
A short drive took us to Bamburgh Castle. Booking was on-line and we hadn’t been able to do that but they let us in anyway, they even provide a golf buggy to take us up the steep hill and back again at the end of our visit.
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Sue wanted a photo of the castle from the beach. Parking by the beach would have proved ideal for an overnight stay but every available space had a sign clearly stating “No Overnight Parking”.
By the time we got back to the farm shop they were closed but the waitress at the bistro kindly provided us with a delicious icecream.
Sunday 12th September
After food shopping in Alnwick we headed to Craster Harbour, famous for its herring fishing in the past. Walked round the harbour and tiny village, bought kippers for lunch (would have to cook and eat them outside the van!) and walked along the coastal path to see the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle.
By the time we got back to the farm shop they were closed but the waitress at the bistro kindly provided us with a delicious icecream.
Sunday 12th September
After food shopping in Alnwick we headed to Craster Harbour, famous for its herring fishing in the past. Walked round the harbour and tiny village, bought kippers for lunch (would have to cook and eat them outside the van!) and walked along the coastal path to see the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle.
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From there we took a short drive to the Camping and Caravanning Club Site at Dunstan Hill.
After booking in and selecting our pitch we walked from the campsite through woodland and fields to Embleton Beach.
An icecream van was selling soft icecream which we don’t normally like but the toffee sundaes were just perfect
After booking in and selecting our pitch we walked from the campsite through woodland and fields to Embleton Beach.
An icecream van was selling soft icecream which we don’t normally like but the toffee sundaes were just perfect
Monday 13th September
Another short drive took us to Alnwick Gardens and Castle. As we hadn’t booked online it was a bit of a rigmarole buying tickets. We were sent to the gatekeepers at the entrance who then sent us to a booking office in town. After almost an hour and a lot of walking we were finally allowed in!
The Percy family still live in the keep which dates back to the 11th century and is very well preserved. The state rooms are particularly impressive and were surprisingly comfortable looking and homely. The castle features in many films including Harry Potter. We saw several, rather young, trainee witches but none of them had started flying lessons yet!
Another short drive took us to Alnwick Gardens and Castle. As we hadn’t booked online it was a bit of a rigmarole buying tickets. We were sent to the gatekeepers at the entrance who then sent us to a booking office in town. After almost an hour and a lot of walking we were finally allowed in!
The Percy family still live in the keep which dates back to the 11th century and is very well preserved. The state rooms are particularly impressive and were surprisingly comfortable looking and homely. The castle features in many films including Harry Potter. We saw several, rather young, trainee witches but none of them had started flying lessons yet!
The gardens are divided into separate zones: Serpent Garden with a bamboo maze; Water Garden with various fountains; a Rose Garden which unfortunately was past its best at this time of year and the fascinating Poison Garden. The huge and elaborate Water Cascade operated every half hour.
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Our overnight halt, curtesy of Britstop, was at Fontburn Waterside Park south of Rothbury, where we shared a carpark beside the reservoir with a group of fishermen.
Tuesday 14th September
Drove to Cragside where a shuttle bus took us through the deeply ravined and forested ground to the Victorian house, set on a steep hillside and built on several levels. Very busy but we were amongst the first in. Entry numbers were limited and when we came out there were long queues.
The house was the first to be powered by hydroelectricity and was very modern for its time. Built by William Armstrong who made his money making and supplying armaments for the British Army during the Crimean War. Whilst the house is very impressive it didn’t sit comfortably with me knowing that the opulence and splendour was bought with the blood of thousands of young soldiers. Whilst walking around the house I couldn’t get the words of Bob Dylan’s “Masters of War” out of my head! In contrast to the rocky crags the formal gardens were covered in rhododendron and North American conifers.
Tuesday 14th September
Drove to Cragside where a shuttle bus took us through the deeply ravined and forested ground to the Victorian house, set on a steep hillside and built on several levels. Very busy but we were amongst the first in. Entry numbers were limited and when we came out there were long queues.
The house was the first to be powered by hydroelectricity and was very modern for its time. Built by William Armstrong who made his money making and supplying armaments for the British Army during the Crimean War. Whilst the house is very impressive it didn’t sit comfortably with me knowing that the opulence and splendour was bought with the blood of thousands of young soldiers. Whilst walking around the house I couldn’t get the words of Bob Dylan’s “Masters of War” out of my head! In contrast to the rocky crags the formal gardens were covered in rhododendron and North American conifers.
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From Cragside we headed west. On the A68 there is a layby, half in England and half in Scotland! We knew from the past that motorhomers parked overnight on the Scottish half. This was to be our overnight spot. The owner of a catering van confirmed that we were okay to stay, he also supplied burgers and icecream and told us he would be back in the morning for bacon butties.
Wednesday 15th September
Drove to the start of the toll road through Kielder Forest, a rough unsurfaced twelve mile long single track road with far reaching views across forest and moorland.
Stopped briefly by Kielder Castle (closed) before driving down the western shore to Tower Knowe Visitor Centre.
Took a short walk along the shore, the Peninsular Trail, before parking for the night. How times have changed. I remember when you could park in the forest for free. Now there's a £3 toll to drive along the logging tracks, daytime parking charges and another £10 to stay overnight beside the reservoir!
Wednesday 15th September
Drove to the start of the toll road through Kielder Forest, a rough unsurfaced twelve mile long single track road with far reaching views across forest and moorland.
Stopped briefly by Kielder Castle (closed) before driving down the western shore to Tower Knowe Visitor Centre.
Took a short walk along the shore, the Peninsular Trail, before parking for the night. How times have changed. I remember when you could park in the forest for free. Now there's a £3 toll to drive along the logging tracks, daytime parking charges and another £10 to stay overnight beside the reservoir!
Thursday 16th September
A lovely drive along the fringes 0f the Northumberland National Park to Hadrian’s Wall. Visited Housesteads Fort on its steep, hilly position and Vindolanda Fort and Village, famous for its main exhibition, the Vindolanda tablets.
A lovely drive along the fringes 0f the Northumberland National Park to Hadrian’s Wall. Visited Housesteads Fort on its steep, hilly position and Vindolanda Fort and Village, famous for its main exhibition, the Vindolanda tablets.
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From there we headed to the Camping and Caravanning Club Site at Haltwhistle.
Friday 17th September
We knew it would be a difficult drive but opted to take the scenic route to Skipton rather than the easier drive east end then down the A1.
Our route took us through Barnard Castle (filled up with LPG), Richmond, Leyburn and Grassington. Very narrow with lots of stops for passing places, steep inclines and frequent delays behind tractors. But the scenery was magnificent. Not easy but a wonderful experience.
Stopped to visit High Force Waterfall near Middleton-in-Teesdale.
Our final overnight stop was again on Coach Street Car Park, Skipton. Much busier this time as it was the weekend but we didn’t have to queue for Fish and Chips at Bizzie Lizzie’s, although we did not have a canal side table this time.
We knew it would be a difficult drive but opted to take the scenic route to Skipton rather than the easier drive east end then down the A1.
Our route took us through Barnard Castle (filled up with LPG), Richmond, Leyburn and Grassington. Very narrow with lots of stops for passing places, steep inclines and frequent delays behind tractors. But the scenery was magnificent. Not easy but a wonderful experience.
Stopped to visit High Force Waterfall near Middleton-in-Teesdale.
Our final overnight stop was again on Coach Street Car Park, Skipton. Much busier this time as it was the weekend but we didn’t have to queue for Fish and Chips at Bizzie Lizzie’s, although we did not have a canal side table this time.
Saturday 18th September
Our plan was to have breakfast and shop in Morrisons but we didn’t like the Saturday morning crowds in Skipton. We headed off early. Booths in Ilkley was much quieter.
After a breakfast butty and picking up sandwiches for lunch and a pizza for tea we headed home, heavy traffic and lots of delays. The weather was glorious. Perhaps we should have stayed away longer!
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Our plan was to have breakfast and shop in Morrisons but we didn’t like the Saturday morning crowds in Skipton. We headed off early. Booths in Ilkley was much quieter.
After a breakfast butty and picking up sandwiches for lunch and a pizza for tea we headed home, heavy traffic and lots of delays. The weather was glorious. Perhaps we should have stayed away longer!
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