Morocco and Western Sahara
We left home on 2nd February 2011, travelling through France and Spain to reach Algeciras where we crossed the Straits of Gibralter to Tangier Med. On an overnight halt in Spain we visited the almost perfectly preserved walled town of Caceres and had a lovely stroll through the old streets.
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We stayed overnight at Centre d'Acceul Comarit in Larache and next day headed towards our first campsite in Fes. We'd already decided where we were staying, the GPS coordinates were in the satnav and we didn't need any help. Despite this, a "fixer" on his moped insisted on escorting us to our destination! Next day we spent in Meknes visiting Bab Mansour, Bab Djemma en Nouar and the Place de Hadim. We broused round the souks, not hassle-free despite what it said in the guide book. However, that was going to get worse as next day we were meeting our youngest daughter who was flying out to join us for a couple of weeks.
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We collected Ali from the airport and spent the day visiting Volubilis, the Roman Empire's most remote and far-flung base at the end of the Imperial Road.
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We spent the next day in Fes, visiting Medersa Bou Inania, Bab Boujeloud and Place en-Nejjarin with its Fountain and Fondouk. On a previous trip we'd visited the tanneries but had difficulty finding them this time. A small boy took us there in exchange for quite a large fee and his father offered me 100 camels for my daughter Ali! Next day we headed for the Atlas mountains and Ziz Gorge.
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At Merzouga we took the opportunity to skateboard down the dunes and take a camel ride.
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We crossed the sandbag stepping stones over the river to spend a day exploring the fortified village of Ait Benhaddou which lies on the former caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakech, wandering the ancient streets and visiting one of the still inhabited kasbahs.
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On the road to Taroudant we spotted goats in an Argand Tree. We stopped to take some photos. The goatherd was nowhere in sight but unsurprisingly he popped up from nowhere to accept his tip! Further along the road was a factory demonstrating Argand Oil processing with a shop selling Argand Oil products - Sue and Ali bought rather a lot! We walked the five kilometres round the city walls of Taroudant and visited the Mosque and Gardens.
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We visited the Kasbah Tizourgane in the Anti-Atlas Mountains and looked round a traditional Berber house in Oumesnat village in the Ameln Valley. Here we saw argan nuts being ground and saw the Berber alphabet.
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The eighteenth-century town of Essaouira (Mogador to the europeans) with its medieval battlements, whitewashed blue-shuttered houses, fishing boats and beach was our next destination before heading for Marrakesh where we visited the Koutabia Mosque, El Badi Palace with its storks, the Saadian Tombs and the Bahia Palace. We wandered around Djemaa el Fna and took a drive into the High Atlas Mountains where, despite the obvious lack of snow there were numerous oppertunities to rent skis! On our final day we visited the tanneries and the wonderfully colourful and peaceful Marjorell Gardens.
The eighteenth-century town of Essaouira (Mogador to the europeans) with its medieval battlements, whitewashed blue-shuttered houses, fishing boats and beach was our next destination before heading for Marrakesh where we visited the Koutabia Mosque, El Badi Palace with its storks, the Saadian Tombs and the Bahia Palace. We wandered around Djemaa el Fna and took a drive into the High Atlas Mountains where, despite the obvious lack of snow there were numerous oppertunities to rent skis! On our final day we visited the tanneries and the wonderfully colourful and peaceful Marjorell Gardens.
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We visited the Imi n'Ifri Rock Bridge and Cascades d'Ouzoud where Ali got rather too close to the Barbary Apes!
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We drove into Casablanca in order to view the magnificent Hassan II Mosque. We eventually managed to find a parking spot. Despite a sign indicating that parking was free an "attendant" came to collect his fee! We then headed to Rabat.
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After a quick visit to the Hassan Tower and Mosque we headed for the Roman Ruins of Chellah. We checked out the sacred pool but despite a generous donation nobody fell pregnant. Can't remember the full details of my sex education at school but don't remember any mention of bathing in sacred water. Ali had brought cat treats and found plenty of attention.
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We wandered around the elegant streets of the old Portugese Atlantic port of Asilah and visited the Caves of Hercules. Despite our refusals a guide attached himself to us. He did not refuse his tip.
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Our final trip with Ali before returning her to the airport for her flight back home was the mountainous village of Chefchaoueen. The driving was difficult and parking almost impossible but we enjoyed our short wander through the streets with the grand Andalucian architecture, local costumes and impressive murals.
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We headed south. Our quest was now to drive through Western Sahara to the Tropic of Cancer. A few days later we awoke to heavy snow in the Atlas Mountains. It may not be Christmas but yes, it does snow in Africa.
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We visited the beautiful Portugese city of El Jadida, with its battlements and underground Cistern and enjoyed a wonderful sunset over Kaouki Beach before continuing down the coastroad to Tiznit and Sidi Ifni, where we spent the day wandering the streets and visiting the old port. At Sidi Ifni we stayed overnight at Camping El Barco on the very edge of the Atlantic Ocean.
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South of Tan Tan the scenery becomes bleak, stony desert. The road hugs the Atlantic coastline with the ocean on the right and the Sahara Desert to the left. There are few towns - Tan Tan, Tarfaya, Laayoune and Dakhla are all modern administrative centres. South of Tarfaya, just after Tah, we crossed into Western Sahara. Leaving Laayoune very early in the morning I foolishly enterred the GPS coordinates for our next campsite. Not really needed, there was only one road. The Sat Nav came up with our next instruction - "Turn right at the roundabout in 544km"!
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We crossed the Tropic of Cancer and, feeling like true explorers rather than motorhomers, we headed to Camping Mousafir in Dakhla. There we were greeted by the sight of hundreds of motorhomes! The campsite was virtually empty but the beach was full to capacity - all French, over-wintering in the sunshine. Next day we headed back North.
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