France and Germany 2022
Friday 30th September
Packed the motorhome in the morning, then after an early lunch set off for Folkestone. Overnight at “The Valiant Sailor” pub (Britstop). Fiona joined us for an evening meal.
Packed the motorhome in the morning, then after an early lunch set off for Folkestone. Overnight at “The Valiant Sailor” pub (Britstop). Fiona joined us for an evening meal.
Saturday 1st October
Heavy rain and strong wind overnight but sun this morning. Filled up with fuel before the docks and caught a DFDS ferry earlier than the one we were booked on. Smooth crossing. Intention had been to have lunch on board but they were still serving breakfast.
Headed to the Auchan in Calais but took the wrong turning off the motorway and ended up in the Eurostar lorry park! Eventually found correct exit, had a Flunch lunch, did some food shopping and headed to Arques for overnight on the aire (outside the municipal Camping de Beausejour).
Sunday 2nd October
Following a night of continuous heavy rain we had a late start to the day. We had planned a slow start to this trip, probably spending time in Northern France or Belgium before heading further. However, with the rain still pouring down we decided, as it was Sunday so no lorries on the road, that it would be a good day to push on.
We drove across Belgium to Namur, then south through the Ardennes to Luxembourg. We were heading for Dudenheim and an aire which we hadn’t stayed on before. When we got there we didn’t like the look of it – cramped parking with a few vans and old motorhomes which looked like they were being stored there. It wasn’t far from there to Mettlach, our usual starting point in Germany, so we decided to continue on and stay overnight at the stellplatze there.
Monday 3rd October
After the early morning mist had cleared it turned into a warm, sunny morning. We quickly discovered that it was a bank holiday and no shops were open to purchase food for the day! The Tourist Office was open however so we payed our €10 for two night’s overnight parking. No-one had come the previous evening in Arques to collect the fee and the campsite office was closed.
We walked along the tow path of the Saar river with far reaching views to the Saarschleife viewpoint. A very tall viewing platform, the “Aussichts” has been built since our last visit – a monstrous structure that spoils the view from below, whilst no doubt enhancing it from the top.
We walked up the hill to the schnellimbiss expecting it to be closed, which it was. However, the filling station opposite was open and had a small shop. We bought bread rolls for lunch and pizza and apfelküchen for dinner. Spent the rest of the day relaxing in the motorhome.
Heavy rain and strong wind overnight but sun this morning. Filled up with fuel before the docks and caught a DFDS ferry earlier than the one we were booked on. Smooth crossing. Intention had been to have lunch on board but they were still serving breakfast.
Headed to the Auchan in Calais but took the wrong turning off the motorway and ended up in the Eurostar lorry park! Eventually found correct exit, had a Flunch lunch, did some food shopping and headed to Arques for overnight on the aire (outside the municipal Camping de Beausejour).
Sunday 2nd October
Following a night of continuous heavy rain we had a late start to the day. We had planned a slow start to this trip, probably spending time in Northern France or Belgium before heading further. However, with the rain still pouring down we decided, as it was Sunday so no lorries on the road, that it would be a good day to push on.
We drove across Belgium to Namur, then south through the Ardennes to Luxembourg. We were heading for Dudenheim and an aire which we hadn’t stayed on before. When we got there we didn’t like the look of it – cramped parking with a few vans and old motorhomes which looked like they were being stored there. It wasn’t far from there to Mettlach, our usual starting point in Germany, so we decided to continue on and stay overnight at the stellplatze there.
Monday 3rd October
After the early morning mist had cleared it turned into a warm, sunny morning. We quickly discovered that it was a bank holiday and no shops were open to purchase food for the day! The Tourist Office was open however so we payed our €10 for two night’s overnight parking. No-one had come the previous evening in Arques to collect the fee and the campsite office was closed.
We walked along the tow path of the Saar river with far reaching views to the Saarschleife viewpoint. A very tall viewing platform, the “Aussichts” has been built since our last visit – a monstrous structure that spoils the view from below, whilst no doubt enhancing it from the top.
We walked up the hill to the schnellimbiss expecting it to be closed, which it was. However, the filling station opposite was open and had a small shop. We bought bread rolls for lunch and pizza and apfelküchen for dinner. Spent the rest of the day relaxing in the motorhome.
Tuesday 4th October
The early morning mist quickly lifted to give a glorious day. We used the autobahn to Zweibrücken and endured an hour and a half stop/start crawl due to the autobahn being closed at Neunkirchen. We exited the autobahn as soon as we could and took the road south to Bitche in France. This proved to be a fast, well surfaced road with little traffic.
From Bitche we took a scenic route through the mixed woodland of the northern Vosges hills passing pretty villages of half-timbered houses.
At Lembach we visited the Maginot Line fortress, Ouvrage Four-à-Chaux, which was built between 1930 to 1935 in order to protect France from German invasion. The German border was just six miles away at this point. The fort has approximately 3 miles of underground galleries and rooms which are upto 30 metres below the ground. We endured a very tedious guided tour that lasted far longer than advertised. The French guide conducted the tour in German, our group consisted of a German couple, a French couple and us. His German was so heavily accented that none of us could understand him! him! We stayed overnight at the aire in Botschdorf.
The early morning mist quickly lifted to give a glorious day. We used the autobahn to Zweibrücken and endured an hour and a half stop/start crawl due to the autobahn being closed at Neunkirchen. We exited the autobahn as soon as we could and took the road south to Bitche in France. This proved to be a fast, well surfaced road with little traffic.
From Bitche we took a scenic route through the mixed woodland of the northern Vosges hills passing pretty villages of half-timbered houses.
At Lembach we visited the Maginot Line fortress, Ouvrage Four-à-Chaux, which was built between 1930 to 1935 in order to protect France from German invasion. The German border was just six miles away at this point. The fort has approximately 3 miles of underground galleries and rooms which are upto 30 metres below the ground. We endured a very tedious guided tour that lasted far longer than advertised. The French guide conducted the tour in German, our group consisted of a German couple, a French couple and us. His German was so heavily accented that none of us could understand him! him! We stayed overnight at the aire in Botschdorf.
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Wednesday 5th October
A short drive took us to Hunspach, listed as one of the most beautiful villages of France. The village owes its origins to Swiss immigrants who at the end of the thirty year war in 1648 were granted farmland here. We followed a detailed historic trail, provided by the tourist office, through the village full of charming black and white half timbered house. Although the village does not have a designated aire de camping the lady running the tourist office told us we could park overnight on the football club carpark.
A short drive took us to Hunspach, listed as one of the most beautiful villages of France. The village owes its origins to Swiss immigrants who at the end of the thirty year war in 1648 were granted farmland here. We followed a detailed historic trail, provided by the tourist office, through the village full of charming black and white half timbered house. Although the village does not have a designated aire de camping the lady running the tourist office told us we could park overnight on the football club carpark.
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Nearby Fort de Schoenbourg was another underground installation on the Maginot Line. We wished we’d visited this fortress instead as self-guided tours were allowed with detailed written notes in English. The fort was completed in 1935. In June 1940 it was attacked by bombers and heavy mortars yet the fort survived for the rest of the war. A circular walk took us to an area of block houses and gun turrets.
We returned to Hunspach for our overnight stop.
We returned to Hunspach for our overnight stop.
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Thursday 6th October
Headed south to join the Alsation wine route via Haguenau and Saverne. Our first stop was planned to be at Mittelbergheim, a small wine producing village. Narrow, twisting streets lined with old, picturesque buildings made driving through extremely hazardous, walking those streets would have been even worse. There was no sign of, or signs to, the motorhome parking listed in our guide so we moved on.
Chȃtenois, further south, was listed as having overnight parking so we headed there. First impressions were disappointing, a large carpark next to a busy road in scruffy suburbs, but a second aire was just outside the old town by the side of the river and much nicer although the pitches were small and it was almost full.
The old town was delightful with lots of lovely old buildings, a medieval herb garden and an intact citadel dating back to the 14th century. Information boards told us about the buildings. John was more impressed by an absolutely immaculate Jaguar XJ12 Vanden Plas parked outside the church.
Headed south to join the Alsation wine route via Haguenau and Saverne. Our first stop was planned to be at Mittelbergheim, a small wine producing village. Narrow, twisting streets lined with old, picturesque buildings made driving through extremely hazardous, walking those streets would have been even worse. There was no sign of, or signs to, the motorhome parking listed in our guide so we moved on.
Chȃtenois, further south, was listed as having overnight parking so we headed there. First impressions were disappointing, a large carpark next to a busy road in scruffy suburbs, but a second aire was just outside the old town by the side of the river and much nicer although the pitches were small and it was almost full.
The old town was delightful with lots of lovely old buildings, a medieval herb garden and an intact citadel dating back to the 14th century. Information boards told us about the buildings. John was more impressed by an absolutely immaculate Jaguar XJ12 Vanden Plas parked outside the church.
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Friday 7th October
A short drive south following the Alsace wine route brought us to Riquewihr, one of the beautiful villages of France. There were several large car parks with dedicated parking for motorhomes (which were charged at a much higher rate than cars) and the whole place was heaving with tourists.
The beautiful medieval town with its double fortification wall was stunning but spoilt by too many gift shops, cafes and restaurants and far too many people. We followed a town trail provided by the tourist office round the streets and walls.
A short drive south following the Alsace wine route brought us to Riquewihr, one of the beautiful villages of France. There were several large car parks with dedicated parking for motorhomes (which were charged at a much higher rate than cars) and the whole place was heaving with tourists.
The beautiful medieval town with its double fortification wall was stunning but spoilt by too many gift shops, cafes and restaurants and far too many people. We followed a town trail provided by the tourist office round the streets and walls.
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A short drive through steeply wooded countryside took us to Saint – Marie – aux – Mines, the start of the Route des Crȇtes, a beautiful road in the northern Ballons des Vosges regional national park. We parked overnight on the carpark at the Col des Bagennelles.
Saturday 8th October
We were woken early by the sound of gunfire, hopefully just a hunter in the woods. Just over a hundred years ago the area would have resounded to exchanges of gunfire between French and German soldiers!
We drove along the Route des Crȇtes, a high road which was built during World War I at the request of the French High Command. The route crosses many cols between the rounded summits on its 50 mile route. Wide sweeping views, dense mixed woodland and plenty of stopping points made the route very interesting. Near the Gazon du Faing we climbed up a steep and rocky path to a viewpoint above a cirque – although it was sunny the view across the valley of the Rhine to the Black Forest and Swiss Alps beyond, were lost in mist.
We were woken early by the sound of gunfire, hopefully just a hunter in the woods. Just over a hundred years ago the area would have resounded to exchanges of gunfire between French and German soldiers!
We drove along the Route des Crȇtes, a high road which was built during World War I at the request of the French High Command. The route crosses many cols between the rounded summits on its 50 mile route. Wide sweeping views, dense mixed woodland and plenty of stopping points made the route very interesting. Near the Gazon du Faing we climbed up a steep and rocky path to a viewpoint above a cirque – although it was sunny the view across the valley of the Rhine to the Black Forest and Swiss Alps beyond, were lost in mist.
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We stopped at the national Monument du Vieil – Armand. Here are buried thousands of soldiers from both sides, who died in fierce fighting along the nearby ridge which was the front line of hostilities. Remnants of trenches can still be seen.
We parked overnight in Thann. The town is overlooked by the scant remnants of Engelbourg Castle and has a number of fine old buildings including a magnificent gothic church.
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Sunday 9th October
We headed east from Thann to the Col du Bussang. For many years we have visited the Mosselle Valley and regard it as one of our favourite places. But we’d never visited its source and decided this must be remedied. At the base of the Drumont mountain, 735 metres above sea level, starts a tiny trickle that flows for 546 km before joining the Rhine at Koblenz.
We headed east from Thann to the Col du Bussang. For many years we have visited the Mosselle Valley and regard it as one of our favourite places. But we’d never visited its source and decided this must be remedied. At the base of the Drumont mountain, 735 metres above sea level, starts a tiny trickle that flows for 546 km before joining the Rhine at Koblenz.
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We then retraced our route back to Thann where we joined the motorway to Muheuise and on to cross the Rhine near Mulheim. Unfortunately a diversion forced us to take the autobahn north to Freiburg-in-Bresgau, rather than the more picturesque route along the western flank of the Black Forest.
To our despair the large, centrally place stellplatz was now a building site! We were not the only ones to miss it, two other motorhomes were hovering nearby, wondering what to do next. We attempted to find an alternative listed site but ended up in a maze of residential side streets. At this point we gave up on staying in Freiberg. Our clothes shopping would have to wait! Eventually we found overnight motorhome parking by the swimming pool complex in Titisee Neustadt.
Monday 10th October
Our plan for the start of the day had been to go for a walk on the Feldberg, the highest point in the Black Forest. Unfortunately there was nowhere to park a motorhome close enough for us to do this, so we had a quick change of plan for the day. We were at the start of the Black Forest high road – wonderful, far reaching views, picturesque villages and little traffic. We stopped for lunch and a walk from a layby, the same parking spot and the same walk we had done nearly forty years previously with a baby in a pram. On that occasion we lost the key to our caravan on the walk. John zipped the motorhome keys into a secure pocket and I checked to make sure I had the spare keys in my handbag! We then headed to Schonach where we stayed on the stellplatz, a quiet, peaceful spot for the night.
Tuesday 11th October
We needed to fill up with fresh water but discovered that the new hosepipe we’d bought from the accessory shop at Pioneer Caravans didn’t have the right connection for the tap at the stellplatz. At least we could empty the toilet! A short drive took us to the start of the waterfall walk in Triberg. As there was a charge for parking and a further €7 entry fee we decided not to walk to the waterfall.
Nearby was the first world’s biggest cuckoo clock, made by the curator’s father-in-law. He had used the clockwork motor of a cuckoo clock as his pattern and built it 50 times larger in wood. It was absolutely fascinating. We were there at 2 pm but the cuckoo appeared many more times than twice!
To our despair the large, centrally place stellplatz was now a building site! We were not the only ones to miss it, two other motorhomes were hovering nearby, wondering what to do next. We attempted to find an alternative listed site but ended up in a maze of residential side streets. At this point we gave up on staying in Freiberg. Our clothes shopping would have to wait! Eventually we found overnight motorhome parking by the swimming pool complex in Titisee Neustadt.
Monday 10th October
Our plan for the start of the day had been to go for a walk on the Feldberg, the highest point in the Black Forest. Unfortunately there was nowhere to park a motorhome close enough for us to do this, so we had a quick change of plan for the day. We were at the start of the Black Forest high road – wonderful, far reaching views, picturesque villages and little traffic. We stopped for lunch and a walk from a layby, the same parking spot and the same walk we had done nearly forty years previously with a baby in a pram. On that occasion we lost the key to our caravan on the walk. John zipped the motorhome keys into a secure pocket and I checked to make sure I had the spare keys in my handbag! We then headed to Schonach where we stayed on the stellplatz, a quiet, peaceful spot for the night.
Tuesday 11th October
We needed to fill up with fresh water but discovered that the new hosepipe we’d bought from the accessory shop at Pioneer Caravans didn’t have the right connection for the tap at the stellplatz. At least we could empty the toilet! A short drive took us to the start of the waterfall walk in Triberg. As there was a charge for parking and a further €7 entry fee we decided not to walk to the waterfall.
Nearby was the first world’s biggest cuckoo clock, made by the curator’s father-in-law. He had used the clockwork motor of a cuckoo clock as his pattern and built it 50 times larger in wood. It was absolutely fascinating. We were there at 2 pm but the cuckoo appeared many more times than twice!
After food shopping for the day in Triberg and with no available motorhome parking, we drove to the small town of Hausach for the night. We took a stroll through the old town, coming back alongside the river with a row of interesting allotments to view. The stellplatz was new but the facilities were not in operation yet so still no water.
Wednesday 12th October
We woke to low mist but this quickly burnt off to give a gloriously warm, sunny day. After purchasing food for the day we stopped at a garden centre and found the missing connection we needed for our hosepipe. The local camping guide which we had picked up at a tourist office informed us that drinking water was available from the Kloster in Haslach so we stopped there and filled up. A short drive further along the Kinzig Valley took us to Gengenbach, a small beautiful medieval town. The local tourist office provided us with an informative town trail leaflet which took us to the major sites in the interesting, still partly walled heart of the town.
Wednesday 12th October
We woke to low mist but this quickly burnt off to give a gloriously warm, sunny day. After purchasing food for the day we stopped at a garden centre and found the missing connection we needed for our hosepipe. The local camping guide which we had picked up at a tourist office informed us that drinking water was available from the Kloster in Haslach so we stopped there and filled up. A short drive further along the Kinzig Valley took us to Gengenbach, a small beautiful medieval town. The local tourist office provided us with an informative town trail leaflet which took us to the major sites in the interesting, still partly walled heart of the town.
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Overnight back at the stellplatz in Hausach. According to John, today we had gone to “Gegenbach and bachengen”!
Thursday 13th October
Couldn’t decide which shop to use this morning so we went to both Aldi and Lidl – fortunately they were next door to each other.
A three mile drive took us to the open air museum at Gutach. We had been there many years ago but now it had many more buildings. The aim of the museum is to collect original historic, mainly farm buildings from the Black Forest area, be they a “mini” castle, farm house or traditional outbuilding. Each building was well documented and many had original furnishings. John decided it was a proper museum when he discovered a Singer sewing machine in one of the rooms.
Farm animals and cottage gardens set the scene of a typical rural community. We had intended to spend only the morning there but ended up staying all day, stopping for lunch of bratwurst mit pommies at the little café. We returned to nearby Hausach for the night. It seemed appropriate to enjoy a slice of Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte for tea.
Thursday 13th October
Couldn’t decide which shop to use this morning so we went to both Aldi and Lidl – fortunately they were next door to each other.
A three mile drive took us to the open air museum at Gutach. We had been there many years ago but now it had many more buildings. The aim of the museum is to collect original historic, mainly farm buildings from the Black Forest area, be they a “mini” castle, farm house or traditional outbuilding. Each building was well documented and many had original furnishings. John decided it was a proper museum when he discovered a Singer sewing machine in one of the rooms.
Farm animals and cottage gardens set the scene of a typical rural community. We had intended to spend only the morning there but ended up staying all day, stopping for lunch of bratwurst mit pommies at the little café. We returned to nearby Hausach for the night. It seemed appropriate to enjoy a slice of Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte for tea.
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Friday 14th October
We woke to a dull, drizzly day so after shopping at the local Aldi, we continued our way north along the Schwarzwaldhochstraße. Schiltach looked an interesting old town so we stopped there to explore despite the dreary weather. It proved to be a beautiful small town, almost completely made up of picturesque half timbered houses rising steeply up the hillside – a real gem of a place. By lunch time we had reached Lossberg – a small town where we had once before stopped at the stellplatz. The weather made a turn for the worst so after a short (wet) walk, we decided to stop there for the night.
We woke to a dull, drizzly day so after shopping at the local Aldi, we continued our way north along the Schwarzwaldhochstraße. Schiltach looked an interesting old town so we stopped there to explore despite the dreary weather. It proved to be a beautiful small town, almost completely made up of picturesque half timbered houses rising steeply up the hillside – a real gem of a place. By lunch time we had reached Lossberg – a small town where we had once before stopped at the stellplatz. The weather made a turn for the worst so after a short (wet) walk, we decided to stop there for the night.
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Saturday 15th October
It rained heavily all night so we woke to a very wet, misty morning. Lossberg had a new Aldi so we stopped to buy food for the weekend (German supermarkets are closed on Sunday). As it was such a dull, damp day we decided to follow the Black Forest valley route rather than the high road. Despite the poor weather it proved to be a lovely drive. We made a brief stop in Forbach to view the covered bridge across the Murg River. The river was full of rapids where canoeists were braving the fast flowing water. We headed on to Gaggenau where we planned to stay for the night. The “free” stellplatz proved to be anything but free so we retraced our route for a few miles to Gernsbach and a spot in the nearby village of Obersrot – road closures made for a torturous journey along narrow cobbled roads to the woodland stellplatz.
It rained heavily all night so we woke to a very wet, misty morning. Lossberg had a new Aldi so we stopped to buy food for the weekend (German supermarkets are closed on Sunday). As it was such a dull, damp day we decided to follow the Black Forest valley route rather than the high road. Despite the poor weather it proved to be a lovely drive. We made a brief stop in Forbach to view the covered bridge across the Murg River. The river was full of rapids where canoeists were braving the fast flowing water. We headed on to Gaggenau where we planned to stay for the night. The “free” stellplatz proved to be anything but free so we retraced our route for a few miles to Gernsbach and a spot in the nearby village of Obersrot – road closures made for a torturous journey along narrow cobbled roads to the woodland stellplatz.
Sunday 16th October
Once again we woke to a dull day but at least the rain had stopped.
It was time to leave the Black Forest and head towards the German Wine Route which is situated to the west of the Rhine which we crossed at Karlsruhe, a busy industrial city.
The wine route begins at Bad Berzabern. From there we drove through pretty villages nestled amongst the vineyards until Rhodt where we stopped for the night.
A short walk took us to the heart of the delightful little village. Here the new wine and traditional onion tart was on sale in every wine merchants’ yard. It was lovely to amble through the old streets with their half timbered houses so typical of this region.
Once again we woke to a dull day but at least the rain had stopped.
It was time to leave the Black Forest and head towards the German Wine Route which is situated to the west of the Rhine which we crossed at Karlsruhe, a busy industrial city.
The wine route begins at Bad Berzabern. From there we drove through pretty villages nestled amongst the vineyards until Rhodt where we stopped for the night.
A short walk took us to the heart of the delightful little village. Here the new wine and traditional onion tart was on sale in every wine merchants’ yard. It was lovely to amble through the old streets with their half timbered houses so typical of this region.
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Monday 17th October
Following a peaceful night surrounded by vineyards, we drove the short distance to Neustadt an der Weinstraße, a busy town with a large motorhome parking area. We walked a mile or so into the old town centre but were disappointed in how few old buildings remained.
The afternoon was spent relaxing outside in the unseasonably warm weather – it was over 30° C!
Overnight – Neustadt.
Following a peaceful night surrounded by vineyards, we drove the short distance to Neustadt an der Weinstraße, a busy town with a large motorhome parking area. We walked a mile or so into the old town centre but were disappointed in how few old buildings remained.
The afternoon was spent relaxing outside in the unseasonably warm weather – it was over 30° C!
Overnight – Neustadt.
Tuesday 18th October
After the lovely warm weather of yesterday, today was overcast with rain threatening. A short drive brought us to the small village of Deidesheim where we stopped to view the market place and walk along a short stretch of the old town wall and moat.
After the lovely warm weather of yesterday, today was overcast with rain threatening. A short drive brought us to the small village of Deidesheim where we stopped to view the market place and walk along a short stretch of the old town wall and moat.
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At Freisheim we failed to find anywhere safe to park so missed seeing the ramparts. Now, at the end of the Weinstraße, we took the autobahn north to Spredlingen for the night.
Wednesday 19th October
The day started very overcast and misty.
We had originally planned to follow the Rhine Valley to Karlsruhe but decided instead to head north across the Hunsruck on the autobahn to the Mosel Valley. Much of the drive was in misty conditions.
Our first stop was at the small village of Alken, one of the few places on the Mosel we had not visited before. Here is a rarity for this area, a free stellplatz overlooking the river. We were lucky to find the last parking place on it.
High above the village loomed Burg Thurant. The walk up took us through the vineyards from where we had a glorious view of the village and river. The castle, although small, was very interesting. The mix of remaining turrets, towers and other structures made for a homogenous whole. A simple self guide mentioned all the parts of this castle which was built between 1198 and 1206 by Count Palatine Heinrich of the House of Guelph. By 1246 it was joint owned by the two archbishops of Cologne and Trier – this resulted in it being divided by a partition wall into two halves, hence the two keeps. A fascinating visit and well worth the climb up to it.
Wednesday 19th October
The day started very overcast and misty.
We had originally planned to follow the Rhine Valley to Karlsruhe but decided instead to head north across the Hunsruck on the autobahn to the Mosel Valley. Much of the drive was in misty conditions.
Our first stop was at the small village of Alken, one of the few places on the Mosel we had not visited before. Here is a rarity for this area, a free stellplatz overlooking the river. We were lucky to find the last parking place on it.
High above the village loomed Burg Thurant. The walk up took us through the vineyards from where we had a glorious view of the village and river. The castle, although small, was very interesting. The mix of remaining turrets, towers and other structures made for a homogenous whole. A simple self guide mentioned all the parts of this castle which was built between 1198 and 1206 by Count Palatine Heinrich of the House of Guelph. By 1246 it was joint owned by the two archbishops of Cologne and Trier – this resulted in it being divided by a partition wall into two halves, hence the two keeps. A fascinating visit and well worth the climb up to it.
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Overnight in Alken watching the barges pass on the river.
Thursday 20th October
In the morning we drove a short distance to a large motorhome dealership – we were in search of a new Europe map for Nicolle – no luck unfortunately.
We returned to the Mosel valley driving through small villages in the Eifel region (with John annoying me by singing “Eifel, trifle, come and get your rifle. Eifel, trifle, fol-de-riddle-de”). In one village we passed a farmer with a metal cage pulled behind his tractor – a novel way to move the two cows walking down the road inside the cage!
On return to the Mosel it was only a short drive to Ellenz and the well equipped stellplatz there. We strolled a short distance to the passenger ferry that took us across the river to the beautiful tiny village of Beilstein – a jumble of narrow cobbled streets and fine town houses many dating back to the 14th century, overlooked by the imposing ruins of the castle.
Thursday 20th October
In the morning we drove a short distance to a large motorhome dealership – we were in search of a new Europe map for Nicolle – no luck unfortunately.
We returned to the Mosel valley driving through small villages in the Eifel region (with John annoying me by singing “Eifel, trifle, come and get your rifle. Eifel, trifle, fol-de-riddle-de”). In one village we passed a farmer with a metal cage pulled behind his tractor – a novel way to move the two cows walking down the road inside the cage!
On return to the Mosel it was only a short drive to Ellenz and the well equipped stellplatz there. We strolled a short distance to the passenger ferry that took us across the river to the beautiful tiny village of Beilstein – a jumble of narrow cobbled streets and fine town houses many dating back to the 14th century, overlooked by the imposing ruins of the castle.
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We returned to Ellenz and our stellplatz. On the bank of the river, by the ferry terminal, was a schnellimbiss. Dinner sorted, we would come back later in the evening!
Friday 21st October
After a very much disturbed night due to heavy rain which continued well into the morning, we made the decision to stay put for another night.
By lunchtime the rain, which had often been torrential, had stopped so we ventured out. We spent a few hours walking along the riverside foot and cycle path, watching the barges and ferries go by before returning to the motorhome for the rest of the day.
Friday 21st October
After a very much disturbed night due to heavy rain which continued well into the morning, we made the decision to stay put for another night.
By lunchtime the rain, which had often been torrential, had stopped so we ventured out. We spent a few hours walking along the riverside foot and cycle path, watching the barges and ferries go by before returning to the motorhome for the rest of the day.
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Saturday 22nd October
After stopping for food, we drove the short distance to one of our favourite places on the Mosel, Ediger-Eller. This is actually two villages close to each other with routes through the vineyards joining them. The stellplatz in Ediger is right on the river bank so we could sit and watch the river traffic go past.
The tourist office provides a trail leaflet describing the historic houses in both villages. It also shows the footpath round the walls in Ediger and three paths through the vineyards between Ediger and Eller. Returning to Ediger along the river towpath makes a delightful circular walk.
Overnight on the stellplatz in Ediger.
After stopping for food, we drove the short distance to one of our favourite places on the Mosel, Ediger-Eller. This is actually two villages close to each other with routes through the vineyards joining them. The stellplatz in Ediger is right on the river bank so we could sit and watch the river traffic go past.
The tourist office provides a trail leaflet describing the historic houses in both villages. It also shows the footpath round the walls in Ediger and three paths through the vineyards between Ediger and Eller. Returning to Ediger along the river towpath makes a delightful circular walk.
Overnight on the stellplatz in Ediger.
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Sunday 23rd October
We decided to spend another day at Ediger and once the early morning mist had lifted it turned out to be a lovely day. Yesterday we had taken the lower of the three routes through the vineyard to Eller, today we headed up to a higher level walk. The views across the valley were stunning.
Lunch was eaten in Ediger at a bench outside one of the vintners houses. Deppekooche is a local tasty savoury dish made with potatoes, bacon and onions, served with stewed apple. This was washed down with a tot of wine liquor.
After lunch we decided to repeat yesterday’s lower level walk through the vineyards to Eller and back along the river bank. More rain overnight!
We decided to spend another day at Ediger and once the early morning mist had lifted it turned out to be a lovely day. Yesterday we had taken the lower of the three routes through the vineyard to Eller, today we headed up to a higher level walk. The views across the valley were stunning.
Lunch was eaten in Ediger at a bench outside one of the vintners houses. Deppekooche is a local tasty savoury dish made with potatoes, bacon and onions, served with stewed apple. This was washed down with a tot of wine liquor.
After lunch we decided to repeat yesterday’s lower level walk through the vineyards to Eller and back along the river bank. More rain overnight!
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Monday 24th October
The early morning mist cleared sooner than yesterday. We drove a short way along the Mosel before reaching Zell. Before heading to the stellplatz we drove up the hill to the out of town shopping precinct where there is both Lidl and Globus supermarkets. The overnight motorhome parking is on terraces with good views of the river. After choosing our spot we walked along the river bank towards Zell passing the imposing half-timbered house that was built in 1550 for Boos von Waldeck.
From there we crossed over the pedestrian bridge into Zell. Lunch was Bratwurst and chips followed by an ice cream. We wandered round the town and did some clothes shopping before walking back to the motorhome.
The early morning mist cleared sooner than yesterday. We drove a short way along the Mosel before reaching Zell. Before heading to the stellplatz we drove up the hill to the out of town shopping precinct where there is both Lidl and Globus supermarkets. The overnight motorhome parking is on terraces with good views of the river. After choosing our spot we walked along the river bank towards Zell passing the imposing half-timbered house that was built in 1550 for Boos von Waldeck.
From there we crossed over the pedestrian bridge into Zell. Lunch was Bratwurst and chips followed by an ice cream. We wandered round the town and did some clothes shopping before walking back to the motorhome.
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Tuesday 25th October
When we set off this morning we were a little unsure as to where our next overnight’s stop would be. Most of the stellplatz along the next stretch of the river are on grass – not the best idea at this time of year, especially with all the rain we had had recently. We made a stop at the village of Punderich which has a number of half timbered houses dating back to the 15th century, including an old ferry house.
When we set off this morning we were a little unsure as to where our next overnight’s stop would be. Most of the stellplatz along the next stretch of the river are on grass – not the best idea at this time of year, especially with all the rain we had had recently. We made a stop at the village of Punderich which has a number of half timbered houses dating back to the 15th century, including an old ferry house.
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According to the Bordatlas, the stellplatz right by the riverside at Ürzig was on meadow but I on driving down to it we spotted some hardstanding pitches. Overnight solved.
We wandered into the town which has some picturesque buildings along its narrow streets and around the town hall square. A short distance out of town, on a promontory among the vineyards, was the oldest sun dial in the Mosel valley.
We wandered into the town which has some picturesque buildings along its narrow streets and around the town hall square. A short distance out of town, on a promontory among the vineyards, was the oldest sun dial in the Mosel valley.
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Wednesday 26th October
This morning we left Ürzig quite promptly as we wanted to get to Brauneberg early. The stellplatz there is small and very popular. We were lucky. When we got there, only two parking spaces were left and one of them had a tree blocking the view to the river! The afternoon was spent walking along the riverside path – Nussbaumallee – into the centre of Brauneberg in order to use the wifi in the Tourist Office. We had been out of touch for quite a long time! Walking back the other way we continued past the stellplatz to the cloister of the Franziskanerinnen.
This morning we left Ürzig quite promptly as we wanted to get to Brauneberg early. The stellplatz there is small and very popular. We were lucky. When we got there, only two parking spaces were left and one of them had a tree blocking the view to the river! The afternoon was spent walking along the riverside path – Nussbaumallee – into the centre of Brauneberg in order to use the wifi in the Tourist Office. We had been out of touch for quite a long time! Walking back the other way we continued past the stellplatz to the cloister of the Franziskanerinnen.
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Thursday 27th October
A very misty start to the day but by lunchtime it was clear and warm. We drove the short distance back to Bernkastel. First stop, Aldi and Edeka for wine and Christmas food to take back home. We then walked over the bridge into the heart of the old town. After a lunch of, you guessed it, bratwurst and chips followed by ice cream, we wandered round the town before heading back to Brauneberg.
Friday 28th October
Today we again walked into Brauneberg, this time continuing through to the end of the village. Brauneberg has really only one main street which parallels the river but it is very long! Visited the church before returning to the stellplatz.
Saturday 29th October
We headed along the Mosel valley towards Trier. We wanted to be there by Monday morning to do a big shop of wine and Christmas food before our return home.
Searching through the Bordatlas we had found what we thought would be a suitable stellplatz for our next stop, on the banks of the river outside a campsite. It turned out to be most disappointing. The campsite was clearly closed and there was no sign of a stellplatz. We beat a retreat and headed back to Mehring where we found a lovely riverside spot. After lunch we explored the village and spent the rest of the afternoon watching the river traffic.
Sunday 30th October
We woke to a thick mist over the valley, so dense that you couldn’t see the river bank only a few metres away. It was lunchtime before the mist cleared but it then turned into a gloriously sunny day. However, it would be a short day as the sun would disappear behind the hills by four o’clock.
In the afternoon we went for a stroll round Mehring. On our return we stopped to chat to Mary and Angus from Scotland. Their motorhome was parked a short distance from ours.
This was our final day pottering along the beautiful Mosel valley.
Monday 31st October
Slightly less mist lingering over the river this morning. We had a quick journey into Trier. After shopping we headed to Mettlach.
It was lunchtime so we headed to the imbiss for our last portion of Bratwurst mit pommies before leaving Germany! We had a stroll through Mettlach and along the bank of the Saar river before heading to the stellplatz.
The tourist office was closed so we were unable to pay for the overnight parking.
Tuesday 1st November
This morning, after breakfast, we headed to the local supermarket only to discover that everywhere was closed. Yet another public holiday, this time All Souls Day.
Despite overnight rain it turned into a beautiful day so we spent the morning exploring. A lovely flat walk along the banks of the Saar took us into the grounds of the estate of the Boch dynasty. Francois Bosch and his three sons founded their ceramics company in 1748.The house is magnificent -even the stable block is beyond belief. Francois was clearly a very wealthy man!
In 1836 local businessman Nicolas Villeroy joined the company to form Villeroy and Boch. Their magnificent Victorian factory is directly opposite the house on the other side of the river.
A very misty start to the day but by lunchtime it was clear and warm. We drove the short distance back to Bernkastel. First stop, Aldi and Edeka for wine and Christmas food to take back home. We then walked over the bridge into the heart of the old town. After a lunch of, you guessed it, bratwurst and chips followed by ice cream, we wandered round the town before heading back to Brauneberg.
Friday 28th October
Today we again walked into Brauneberg, this time continuing through to the end of the village. Brauneberg has really only one main street which parallels the river but it is very long! Visited the church before returning to the stellplatz.
Saturday 29th October
We headed along the Mosel valley towards Trier. We wanted to be there by Monday morning to do a big shop of wine and Christmas food before our return home.
Searching through the Bordatlas we had found what we thought would be a suitable stellplatz for our next stop, on the banks of the river outside a campsite. It turned out to be most disappointing. The campsite was clearly closed and there was no sign of a stellplatz. We beat a retreat and headed back to Mehring where we found a lovely riverside spot. After lunch we explored the village and spent the rest of the afternoon watching the river traffic.
Sunday 30th October
We woke to a thick mist over the valley, so dense that you couldn’t see the river bank only a few metres away. It was lunchtime before the mist cleared but it then turned into a gloriously sunny day. However, it would be a short day as the sun would disappear behind the hills by four o’clock.
In the afternoon we went for a stroll round Mehring. On our return we stopped to chat to Mary and Angus from Scotland. Their motorhome was parked a short distance from ours.
This was our final day pottering along the beautiful Mosel valley.
Monday 31st October
Slightly less mist lingering over the river this morning. We had a quick journey into Trier. After shopping we headed to Mettlach.
It was lunchtime so we headed to the imbiss for our last portion of Bratwurst mit pommies before leaving Germany! We had a stroll through Mettlach and along the bank of the Saar river before heading to the stellplatz.
The tourist office was closed so we were unable to pay for the overnight parking.
Tuesday 1st November
This morning, after breakfast, we headed to the local supermarket only to discover that everywhere was closed. Yet another public holiday, this time All Souls Day.
Despite overnight rain it turned into a beautiful day so we spent the morning exploring. A lovely flat walk along the banks of the Saar took us into the grounds of the estate of the Boch dynasty. Francois Bosch and his three sons founded their ceramics company in 1748.The house is magnificent -even the stable block is beyond belief. Francois was clearly a very wealthy man!
In 1836 local businessman Nicolas Villeroy joined the company to form Villeroy and Boch. Their magnificent Victorian factory is directly opposite the house on the other side of the river.
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We then explored the Abbey Park. Here we viewed the Old Tower, built around AD990, which is the Saarland’s oldest sacred building. The chapel was built to house the remains of Saint Luitwinius, the Bishop of Trier who was born in AD718. Also in the park were a series of ceramic maps of the world, the World Map of Life, which was originally commissioned for Expo 2000.
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After lunch we walked back into town. By now a few of the outlet shops, as well as the cafes and restaurants, were open. We bought a couple of Christmas presents in Villeroy and Boch’s Factory Outlet Shop and had our final ice cream of the trip!
Wednesday 2nd November
We left Mettlach with regret and started the long journey home through Luxembourg, Belgium and northern France. Overnight at the aire in Arques.
Thursday 3rd November
A short drive into St. Omer to the Auchan. I had bought lots of the sweet white German wine that I like, John wanted some French red wine. Lunch at Flunch. Overnight again at Arques.
Friday 4th November
Drove to Calais for the DFDS ferry back to Calais and the drive home.
We both agreed that our first overseas trip with Nouvelle Nicolle and our first trip post Brexit had been a resounding success and, despite being a month later than our usual Autumn trip, the weather had been magnificent.
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Wednesday 2nd November
We left Mettlach with regret and started the long journey home through Luxembourg, Belgium and northern France. Overnight at the aire in Arques.
Thursday 3rd November
A short drive into St. Omer to the Auchan. I had bought lots of the sweet white German wine that I like, John wanted some French red wine. Lunch at Flunch. Overnight again at Arques.
Friday 4th November
Drove to Calais for the DFDS ferry back to Calais and the drive home.
We both agreed that our first overseas trip with Nouvelle Nicolle and our first trip post Brexit had been a resounding success and, despite being a month later than our usual Autumn trip, the weather had been magnificent.
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