Romantische Straße Revisited
Forty years ago
John proposed to me in Rothenburg ob der Tauber on the Romantische Straße. On that trip, we drove the Romantische Straße in his Alfa Romeo GTV 2000. We have returned many times since. |
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Tuesday 22nd August
The first few hours of this morning we took a "cross country" route to the southern end of the Romantische Strasse at Fussen. The views across to the foothills of the Alps and the small villages with their picturesque churches all surrounded by hay meadows were a wonderful sight. Fussen is situated on a hill above the River Lech. The town developed along the side of a Roman military road and in time developed into an important trading centre which, in the Middle Ages, was fortified. The old centre, whose outer streets still follow the line of the walls, is an attractive place to wander. Towering above the picturesque streets is the attractive castle with its distinctive tower. A perfect place to sit and enjoy a delicious icecream.
The nearby village of Schwangau with its two royal castles - Hohenschwangau, the former home of the Lords of Schwangau, and the fairytale castle of Neuschwanstein, whose existence is due to King Ludwig II of Bavaria - dominate the scene, especially when viewed from afar against the rugged Alpine background.
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The pilgrimage church of St Coloman is situated in the middle of meadowland close to the royal castles. It epitomises so much of this area - attractive buildings in pretty villages surrounded by wide vistas across fields to the mountains.
Wieskirche is baroque in style and has been a church of pilgrimage since 1745. The ornate interior is flooded with natural light. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Tonight was spent at Peiting.
Wieskirche is baroque in style and has been a church of pilgrimage since 1745. The ornate interior is flooded with natural light. Today it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Tonight was spent at Peiting.
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Wednesday 23rd August
A very short drive brought us to the old walled town of Schongau. An interesting town walk took us not just round the walls but also up on to them. The walls were punctuated at intervals by attractive towers and gateways. The central Marienplatz with its tall fountain and the stepped gable of the Ballenhaus, a former warehouse, then town hall, is flanked by picturesque former burger houses. By lunchtime we had driven to Landsberg am Lech. It is a motorhome friendly town with an overnight parking area just a short walk from the still partly walled old town. Gates of various styles still punctuate the walls. The Hauptplatz is the hub of the town. It is dominated by its richly decorated stucco facade. At its heart is the market fountain which is dominated by a statue of the Virgin Mary. An eclectic mix of buildings painted mainly in pastel shades surround the triangular shaped "square".
A steep hill, the Schlossberg, rises above the town and the river Lech. Seen from over the water the town presents a skyline of towers and attractive buildings.
We spent the night in Landsberg am Lech.
A very short drive brought us to the old walled town of Schongau. An interesting town walk took us not just round the walls but also up on to them. The walls were punctuated at intervals by attractive towers and gateways. The central Marienplatz with its tall fountain and the stepped gable of the Ballenhaus, a former warehouse, then town hall, is flanked by picturesque former burger houses. By lunchtime we had driven to Landsberg am Lech. It is a motorhome friendly town with an overnight parking area just a short walk from the still partly walled old town. Gates of various styles still punctuate the walls. The Hauptplatz is the hub of the town. It is dominated by its richly decorated stucco facade. At its heart is the market fountain which is dominated by a statue of the Virgin Mary. An eclectic mix of buildings painted mainly in pastel shades surround the triangular shaped "square".
A steep hill, the Schlossberg, rises above the town and the river Lech. Seen from over the water the town presents a skyline of towers and attractive buildings.
We spent the night in Landsberg am Lech.
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Thursday 24th August
We continued to follow the Romantische Strasse northwards towards Augsburg passing through the aptly named village of Kissing. Augsburg proved to be a nightmare, a big city with horrendous traffic. We eventually reached the stellplatz. It was very scruffy, overcrowded and a long walk from the altstadt, with no signs of a bus route. We followed signs to the Park & Ride but couldn't find it so, as we had visited Augsburg previously, we decided to move on.
Our next stop was at the small town of Rain. John of course had to make some quip about it at least being dry. The main street was lined with 17th & 18th century buildings, with a rococo town hall outside of which was the Tilly memorial. Tilly was an imperial commander of the 30 year war. (John said he didn't think it was " tilly" at all, in fact it was quite "tensible"........groan)
Our overnight halt was a popular spot on the banks of the Danube in Donauworth.
We continued to follow the Romantische Strasse northwards towards Augsburg passing through the aptly named village of Kissing. Augsburg proved to be a nightmare, a big city with horrendous traffic. We eventually reached the stellplatz. It was very scruffy, overcrowded and a long walk from the altstadt, with no signs of a bus route. We followed signs to the Park & Ride but couldn't find it so, as we had visited Augsburg previously, we decided to move on.
Our next stop was at the small town of Rain. John of course had to make some quip about it at least being dry. The main street was lined with 17th & 18th century buildings, with a rococo town hall outside of which was the Tilly memorial. Tilly was an imperial commander of the 30 year war. (John said he didn't think it was " tilly" at all, in fact it was quite "tensible"........groan)
Our overnight halt was a popular spot on the banks of the Danube in Donauworth.
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Friday 25th August
Before we left Donauworth we walked the short way into town to view the impressive Reichstrasse which counts among one of Germany's most beautiful streets. At one end is the Fuggerhaus whilst at the other end features a carillon. The town is still partly walled with a number of town gates.
From Donauworth we headed to Harburg, a small medieval town which clusters at the foot of an impressive castle that was first mentioned in records in 1150. It has never been conquered and is one of the best preserved castles in Germany. On entry you pass through a double gate tower with its iron tipped wooden portcullis still in place. The inner courtyard is surrounded by original buildings. The castle stands proudly above the old town and there are fine views from the walls and towers.
(John was not impressed at being charged to go into the courtyard, only to be charged again to go inside the castle, grumbling that the feudal lords were still lining their pockets by robbing the poor peasants!)
Finally for the day we reached the important ancient town of Nordlingen which is completely walled with five defensive gates and towers which lead to the central market square dominated by St. George's Church and high Daniel Tower. The nine storey high former warehouse, Hohes (High) House, built in the 15th century, is the tallest medieval building in Southern Germany. The town hall has a magnificent Renaissance outer stone staircase whilst within the town walls there are many fine buildings.
Found a photography shop and bought some photo albums.
Before we left Donauworth we walked the short way into town to view the impressive Reichstrasse which counts among one of Germany's most beautiful streets. At one end is the Fuggerhaus whilst at the other end features a carillon. The town is still partly walled with a number of town gates.
From Donauworth we headed to Harburg, a small medieval town which clusters at the foot of an impressive castle that was first mentioned in records in 1150. It has never been conquered and is one of the best preserved castles in Germany. On entry you pass through a double gate tower with its iron tipped wooden portcullis still in place. The inner courtyard is surrounded by original buildings. The castle stands proudly above the old town and there are fine views from the walls and towers.
(John was not impressed at being charged to go into the courtyard, only to be charged again to go inside the castle, grumbling that the feudal lords were still lining their pockets by robbing the poor peasants!)
Finally for the day we reached the important ancient town of Nordlingen which is completely walled with five defensive gates and towers which lead to the central market square dominated by St. George's Church and high Daniel Tower. The nine storey high former warehouse, Hohes (High) House, built in the 15th century, is the tallest medieval building in Southern Germany. The town hall has a magnificent Renaissance outer stone staircase whilst within the town walls there are many fine buildings.
Found a photography shop and bought some photo albums.
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Saturday 26th August
Another hot and sunny day so we decided to have a quieter day rather than move onto Dinkelsbuhl, our next stop on the Romantische Straße. Did some shopping and went in search of diesel.
Once we eventually found our way around the many road diversions around Nordlingen, we found a delightful spot for our overnight stay on the banks of the River Wornitz at Oettingen.
Sunday 27th August
Today was spent in Dinkelsbuhl, a beautiful, completely walled town with fine buildings. We followed an interesting town trail which showed us the main important buildings as well as the numerous defence towers and gates.
At the Hezelhaus in the town centre, it is possible for a small fee, to view an inner courtyard that has retained its Middle Ages character. As in Nordlingen, by paying an extra €2 at the designated car park for motorhomes, it was possible to stay overnight.
Another hot and sunny day so we decided to have a quieter day rather than move onto Dinkelsbuhl, our next stop on the Romantische Straße. Did some shopping and went in search of diesel.
Once we eventually found our way around the many road diversions around Nordlingen, we found a delightful spot for our overnight stay on the banks of the River Wornitz at Oettingen.
Sunday 27th August
Today was spent in Dinkelsbuhl, a beautiful, completely walled town with fine buildings. We followed an interesting town trail which showed us the main important buildings as well as the numerous defence towers and gates.
At the Hezelhaus in the town centre, it is possible for a small fee, to view an inner courtyard that has retained its Middle Ages character. As in Nordlingen, by paying an extra €2 at the designated car park for motorhomes, it was possible to stay overnight.
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Monday 28th August
A short drive brought us to Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Since our first visit we have returned to this magical, medieval, walled town many times, including one year when we came for the Christmas Market. The entire town is like a well preserved open air museum except that in Rothenburg it is very much a lived and worked in town. Attractive walls and gate towers all of which can be walked on, line the outer limit of the old town within which is an inner ring of fortifications. A magical place.
A short drive brought us to Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Since our first visit we have returned to this magical, medieval, walled town many times, including one year when we came for the Christmas Market. The entire town is like a well preserved open air museum except that in Rothenburg it is very much a lived and worked in town. Attractive walls and gate towers all of which can be walked on, line the outer limit of the old town within which is an inner ring of fortifications. A magical place.
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Tuesday 29th August
With reluctance we left the beautiful old towns of the Romantische Strasse and headed into Wurzburg, the official end point of the road. At neither the Residence which is UNESCO listed, or the Marienberg fortress situated dramatically above the river Maine, were you allowed to park a motorhome. So we beat a retreat and headed towards Steinau an dear Strasse and the start of our journey along the Deutsche Märchenstraße.
[click] to continue our trip along the Deutsche Märchenstraße.
[click] to return to Home page
Tuesday 29th August
With reluctance we left the beautiful old towns of the Romantische Strasse and headed into Wurzburg, the official end point of the road. At neither the Residence which is UNESCO listed, or the Marienberg fortress situated dramatically above the river Maine, were you allowed to park a motorhome. So we beat a retreat and headed towards Steinau an dear Strasse and the start of our journey along the Deutsche Märchenstraße.
[click] to continue our trip along the Deutsche Märchenstraße.
[click] to return to Home page