Germany 2020 A trip down Memory Lane
Following lockdown from Coronavirus we were hopeful that we might get away. Our initial plans for this year had been a return trip to Scotland and a trip to the Alps.
Just before lockdown was announced, we had intended self-isolating in the highlands of Scotland but it soon became clear that this was being discouraged.
Last year we had supported our son, together with over 40 other riders on a sponsored cycle ride starting near Innsbruck, Austria and ending in Morzine, France. We wanted to retrace the route, this time taking it leisurely and enjoying it! We shall have to postpone that until another year.
We took a short break on the Sandringham Estate (Camping and Caravanning Club Site) to check everything was working okay on the motorhome. Had a lovely walk through the Sandringham Estate to Wolferton village with its beautiful old church, old farmhouses and the Royal Station, then past the old sea cliffs and across Dersingham Bog.
Following lockdown from Coronavirus we were hopeful that we might get away. Our initial plans for this year had been a return trip to Scotland and a trip to the Alps.
Just before lockdown was announced, we had intended self-isolating in the highlands of Scotland but it soon became clear that this was being discouraged.
Last year we had supported our son, together with over 40 other riders on a sponsored cycle ride starting near Innsbruck, Austria and ending in Morzine, France. We wanted to retrace the route, this time taking it leisurely and enjoying it! We shall have to postpone that until another year.
We took a short break on the Sandringham Estate (Camping and Caravanning Club Site) to check everything was working okay on the motorhome. Had a lovely walk through the Sandringham Estate to Wolferton village with its beautiful old church, old farmhouses and the Royal Station, then past the old sea cliffs and across Dersingham Bog.
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Tuesday 22nd September A very hectic morning packing the van. Obviously we were aware that we might have to quarantine in the Netherlands and then again on arrival in Germany so we took enough tinned and package food to last us a fortnight.
A diet of corned beef, tuna, pasta, rice, smash and baked beans might not be what we wanted but we needed to be prepared for what might be! We had lots of books, magazines and puzzles to keep us amused. Our only requirements would be to fill up with water and empty the toilet! We would be isolated and safe in our own little bubble.
After lunch we headed off to catch the night sailing from Harwich to Hook of Holland. We had treated ourselves to a very luxurious Captain’s Cabin.
A diet of corned beef, tuna, pasta, rice, smash and baked beans might not be what we wanted but we needed to be prepared for what might be! We had lots of books, magazines and puzzles to keep us amused. Our only requirements would be to fill up with water and empty the toilet! We would be isolated and safe in our own little bubble.
After lunch we headed off to catch the night sailing from Harwich to Hook of Holland. We had treated ourselves to a very luxurious Captain’s Cabin.
Wednesday 23rd September A 5.30am wake-up call was a little too early for our liking but it proved well worthwhile getting up then in order to see a glorious sunrise and to do justice to the excellent “eat all you can” breakfast. We were called down to the vehicle deck just before 7am and on the road not long after. Customs officials only wanted to see our passports, there were no check for Coronavirus or mention of quarantine.
It was a long drive, often with a lot of traffic, across the Netherlands – we had a rest halt but didn’t get out of the motorhome. We reached the German border by lunchtime and again there were no border checks or suggestion that we needed to quarantine.
Overnight on the car park of Cloppenburg Open Air Museum.
It was a long drive, often with a lot of traffic, across the Netherlands – we had a rest halt but didn’t get out of the motorhome. We reached the German border by lunchtime and again there were no border checks or suggestion that we needed to quarantine.
Overnight on the car park of Cloppenburg Open Air Museum.
Thursday 24th September
After a very quiet night we set off in the direction of Ost Friesland with the aim to follow the “Storks’ Route” following the coast. The small farming communities along the road were very picturesque but we failed to spot a single stork’s nest! Presumably by now the storks themselves had headed for warmer climes. Looking seawards the dyke and occasional lighthouse protected the land from the sea.
On reaching Greetsiel we decided to book into the stellplaz for the night. It was a popular place and we were glad we had arrived early. Greetsiel is a small, very picturesque port which dated back to at least 1388. The scenic harbour is lined with historic buildings, many with Dutch style gables, and there are two windmills. It was very pleasant, if a little busy, to stroll around. Lunch was a very tasty Kibbeling with fries, followed by a delicious ice cream.
After a very quiet night we set off in the direction of Ost Friesland with the aim to follow the “Storks’ Route” following the coast. The small farming communities along the road were very picturesque but we failed to spot a single stork’s nest! Presumably by now the storks themselves had headed for warmer climes. Looking seawards the dyke and occasional lighthouse protected the land from the sea.
On reaching Greetsiel we decided to book into the stellplaz for the night. It was a popular place and we were glad we had arrived early. Greetsiel is a small, very picturesque port which dated back to at least 1388. The scenic harbour is lined with historic buildings, many with Dutch style gables, and there are two windmills. It was very pleasant, if a little busy, to stroll around. Lunch was a very tasty Kibbeling with fries, followed by a delicious ice cream.
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Friday 25th September It had rained heavily rain overnight but we awoke to sunshine. Having completed the necessary motorhome tasks we continued eastward along the coast road. Dykes lined the seaward side of the road whilst farms were dotted along the landward side. Fields were regularly interspersed by drainage ditches – still no signs of stork’s nests along the "Stork Route”.
Our first stop was at the small fishing town of Bensersiel. We walked along the paths on top of the dykes which protect the area from flooding. There were fine views over the Wattenmeer to the island of Langeroog. Beach korbe lined the sea edge but none of them were in use!
Our first stop was at the small fishing town of Bensersiel. We walked along the paths on top of the dykes which protect the area from flooding. There were fine views over the Wattenmeer to the island of Langeroog. Beach korbe lined the sea edge but none of them were in use!
A little further east lies the picturesque harbour at Neuharlingersiel. There was a small market on each side of the harbour. From the dyke there were once again views of the Wattenmeer but this time to the island of Spiekeroog.
We headed inland for the night and wasted over an hour trying to find overnight rest areas in Schortans. Three were listed in our guide but we could only find two and rejected them both – one was on the side of a very narrow road, sloping into a ditch! If we had stayed there we would have likely been hit by passing traffic or slid into the ditch!!
We drove on into Wilhelmshaven and found the overnight motorhome car park on the Fliegerdyke. This was very close to where Sue used to teach at Prince Rupert School in the 1960’s. A very exposed and windy place but with stunning views across the Jadebusen.
We headed inland for the night and wasted over an hour trying to find overnight rest areas in Schortans. Three were listed in our guide but we could only find two and rejected them both – one was on the side of a very narrow road, sloping into a ditch! If we had stayed there we would have likely been hit by passing traffic or slid into the ditch!!
We drove on into Wilhelmshaven and found the overnight motorhome car park on the Fliegerdyke. This was very close to where Sue used to teach at Prince Rupert School in the 1960’s. A very exposed and windy place but with stunning views across the Jadebusen.
Saturday 26th September First thing this morning we walked along the deich top passing the former two boys’ houses of Prince Rupert School, an Army boarding school which closed in 1972. The school then moved south to become a day school in Rinteln. Sue taught at the school in Wilhelmshaven for three years.
We walked into the town centre of Wilhelmshaven passing the former site of the main school. The site has been cleared but not redeveloped. The bunker from the 2nd World War which was used as a storage space by the school was the only structure still standing.
We walked into the town centre of Wilhelmshaven passing the former site of the main school. The site has been cleared but not redeveloped. The bunker from the 2nd World War which was used as a storage space by the school was the only structure still standing.
We continued into the town centre which had dramatically changed since Sue last shopped here fifty years ago! Despite our initial reluctance to go shopping in a town centre on Saturday morning, we were rewarded by almost deserted streets and empty shops.
Late morning we headed off for a long drive to Luneburg Heath, an area Sue and I used to visit regularly. We had two long hold-ups due to roadworks on the autobahn so as a consequence we didn’t arrive at our destination Undeloh until late afternoon. Despite threatening weather, we took a short walk around the village and managed to get back to our motorhome just before the heavy rain arrived. We remembered exactly the same thing happening the last time we were there!
We continued into the town centre which had dramatically changed since Sue last shopped here fifty years ago! Despite our initial reluctance to go shopping in a town centre on Saturday morning, we were rewarded by almost deserted streets and empty shops.
Late morning we headed off for a long drive to Luneburg Heath, an area Sue and I used to visit regularly. We had two long hold-ups due to roadworks on the autobahn so as a consequence we didn’t arrive at our destination Undeloh until late afternoon. Despite threatening weather, we took a short walk around the village and managed to get back to our motorhome just before the heavy rain arrived. We remembered exactly the same thing happening the last time we were there!
Sunday 27th September
Fortunately the heavy rain of yesterday evening had stopped in time to give us a quiet night’s sleep.
There were only a few motorhomes parked in the overnight area and the day parking was still empty when we set out on our walk, with rather a lot of trepidation. The weather was very threatening and we would be out in the open with absolutely no shelter if the rain came down as hard as yesterday.
We were very lucky, as despite being very dull and overcast, the day stayed dry apart from a few drops of rain. We had walked to the village of Wilsede many times so we took a different route this time, leaving the main track and heading into the oak forest, then across open heath dotted with juniper trees towards Wilseder Berg. From there we headed to Wilsede for a traditional lunch of bockwurst sausage soup before heading back to Undeloh for the night.
Fortunately the heavy rain of yesterday evening had stopped in time to give us a quiet night’s sleep.
There were only a few motorhomes parked in the overnight area and the day parking was still empty when we set out on our walk, with rather a lot of trepidation. The weather was very threatening and we would be out in the open with absolutely no shelter if the rain came down as hard as yesterday.
We were very lucky, as despite being very dull and overcast, the day stayed dry apart from a few drops of rain. We had walked to the village of Wilsede many times so we took a different route this time, leaving the main track and heading into the oak forest, then across open heath dotted with juniper trees towards Wilseder Berg. From there we headed to Wilsede for a traditional lunch of bockwurst sausage soup before heading back to Undeloh for the night.
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Monday 28th September
Today the weather was even worse. We had planned another walk on the heath but it started to rain even before we had finished breakfast. We decided to move on and head to our next destination – Rinteln.
It was here that Sue and I met. We were both teaching at Prince Rupert School, Sue had been there already for five years when I moved there from Malta. We married and lived in Rinteln for nine years before moving back to England. Our three children were all born there.
Rinteln is a small medieval town situated on the banks of the River Weser. The old town is still partly walled and there are many fine half-timbered buildings.
By lunchtime the weather had cleared up and we even had some sunshine. Little did we realise at this point that, apart from a couple of tiny little flashes, this would be the last time we would see the sun for four weeks!
After lunch in a small cafe, we followed an interesting town trail through the many picturesque streets. Overnight parking was beside the river.
Today the weather was even worse. We had planned another walk on the heath but it started to rain even before we had finished breakfast. We decided to move on and head to our next destination – Rinteln.
It was here that Sue and I met. We were both teaching at Prince Rupert School, Sue had been there already for five years when I moved there from Malta. We married and lived in Rinteln for nine years before moving back to England. Our three children were all born there.
Rinteln is a small medieval town situated on the banks of the River Weser. The old town is still partly walled and there are many fine half-timbered buildings.
By lunchtime the weather had cleared up and we even had some sunshine. Little did we realise at this point that, apart from a couple of tiny little flashes, this would be the last time we would see the sun for four weeks!
After lunch in a small cafe, we followed an interesting town trail through the many picturesque streets. Overnight parking was beside the river.
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Tuesday 29th September
Before leaving Rinteln we went on a tour of exploration, revisiting our past.
Prince Rupert School closed in 2014 having been a German school after the British left. Now it was abandoned, closed, derelict and overgrown. The hospital had fared better and was now an old peoples’ home. The flats were still there, recently painted and looking very smart. We stopped to talk to the lady who lived in the flat which had once been our home. The sports fields in front of the flats, where the helicopters used to land was still there – our eldest daughter’s first word was “copta”! The schnell imbiss, Cuddles, that we used was still there but unfortunately closed that day.
Before leaving Rinteln we went on a tour of exploration, revisiting our past.
Prince Rupert School closed in 2014 having been a German school after the British left. Now it was abandoned, closed, derelict and overgrown. The hospital had fared better and was now an old peoples’ home. The flats were still there, recently painted and looking very smart. We stopped to talk to the lady who lived in the flat which had once been our home. The sports fields in front of the flats, where the helicopters used to land was still there – our eldest daughter’s first word was “copta”! The schnell imbiss, Cuddles, that we used was still there but unfortunately closed that day.
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From Rinteln we drove west passing through the beautiful towns of Hameln and Bodenwerde before heading to the Harz Mountains, an area which we used to visit regularly for walking and skiing. We overnighted on a motorhome stellplatz at Hahnenklee.
Wednesday 30th September
This morning the mists were down so we had a lazy start to the day. It was an ideal time to walk into the small village of Hahnenkee, firstly to access the wifi at the Tourist Office and secondly to visit the beautiful Norwegian style stave church. Made entirely from wood, both the exterior and interior were most impressive.
Once the mist had lifted a little we set off on a seven kilometre long circular walk – Der Liebesbankweg. Along the way were 25 individually designed wooden benches dedicated to the theme of love and marriage, starting with courtship and progressing through marriage and childbirth. It was a pleasant though strenuous walk with several steep climbs followed by long downhill stretches only to have to ascend again. Although shorter than our walk on Luneberg Heath it was much tougher. The walk took us through woods and then along the valley floor passing a series of man-made lakes that were a relic of the Harz Mountains mining and industrial past. Halfway round we stopped at a café for what turned out to be rather large but delicious ice cream with cherries and cream topped off with heart shaped wafer and chocolate biscuits.
Overnight was again on the motorhome stellplatz at Hahnenklee. Unfortunately, part way through the evening, the habitation battery went flat so it was early to bed!
Wednesday 30th September
This morning the mists were down so we had a lazy start to the day. It was an ideal time to walk into the small village of Hahnenkee, firstly to access the wifi at the Tourist Office and secondly to visit the beautiful Norwegian style stave church. Made entirely from wood, both the exterior and interior were most impressive.
Once the mist had lifted a little we set off on a seven kilometre long circular walk – Der Liebesbankweg. Along the way were 25 individually designed wooden benches dedicated to the theme of love and marriage, starting with courtship and progressing through marriage and childbirth. It was a pleasant though strenuous walk with several steep climbs followed by long downhill stretches only to have to ascend again. Although shorter than our walk on Luneberg Heath it was much tougher. The walk took us through woods and then along the valley floor passing a series of man-made lakes that were a relic of the Harz Mountains mining and industrial past. Halfway round we stopped at a café for what turned out to be rather large but delicious ice cream with cherries and cream topped off with heart shaped wafer and chocolate biscuits.
Overnight was again on the motorhome stellplatz at Hahnenklee. Unfortunately, part way through the evening, the habitation battery went flat so it was early to bed!
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Thursday 1st October
First stop this morning we headed to Goslar where there was a motorhome dealer. The mechanic tested our battery and told us that it was okay. We had been staying on stellplatze without electric hook-ups and only driving short distances each day. With the long, cold evenings with lights and heater running the battery wasn’t getting enough charge. We decided that whilst the weather remained so cold we would find stellplatze with electric hook-ups from now on.
We spent the rest of the day exploring Goslar, a gem of a town founded in 922 AD. It became an Imperial City and was a member of the Hanseatic League. The old town, which was UNESCO listed in 1992, originally became important because of the nearby silver mines. Today, many timber framed buildings dating back to Medieval times, remain. Elaborate carvings decorate the frontage of these buildings. It was a joy to follow a town trail through the back streets and town squares. Our wander ended at the Imperial Palace which was built in the 11th century under the supervision of Henry III.
From Goslar we headed back into the Harz to the small village of Schulenberg for the night on a stellplatz with lovely views over the valley, reservoir and damn.
First stop this morning we headed to Goslar where there was a motorhome dealer. The mechanic tested our battery and told us that it was okay. We had been staying on stellplatze without electric hook-ups and only driving short distances each day. With the long, cold evenings with lights and heater running the battery wasn’t getting enough charge. We decided that whilst the weather remained so cold we would find stellplatze with electric hook-ups from now on.
We spent the rest of the day exploring Goslar, a gem of a town founded in 922 AD. It became an Imperial City and was a member of the Hanseatic League. The old town, which was UNESCO listed in 1992, originally became important because of the nearby silver mines. Today, many timber framed buildings dating back to Medieval times, remain. Elaborate carvings decorate the frontage of these buildings. It was a joy to follow a town trail through the back streets and town squares. Our wander ended at the Imperial Palace which was built in the 11th century under the supervision of Henry III.
From Goslar we headed back into the Harz to the small village of Schulenberg for the night on a stellplatz with lovely views over the valley, reservoir and damn.
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Friday 2nd October
After emptying waste water and toilet and filling up with fresh water we headed towards Braunlage, the main hub of this area of the Harz. We stocked up with food at an Edeka supermarket before heading to the tiny village of Elend.
We were trying to find the walk along the former east/west border which we had done many years previously. At the local tourist office we were given instructions of how to find a border walk starting from the nearby village of Sorge. There was a small Grenz Museum and an interesting 6km circular walk with relics from the time before German unification, watch towers, fences, concrete roadways, dog kennels etc., but it was not the same walk we had done before. Not surprising really as the Harz section of the Grenzweg is over 90 km long! However, it did bring back memories of when we were living in Germany during the height of the Cold War.
Overnight was in the old town of Halberstadt on the northern fringe of the Harz.
After emptying waste water and toilet and filling up with fresh water we headed towards Braunlage, the main hub of this area of the Harz. We stocked up with food at an Edeka supermarket before heading to the tiny village of Elend.
We were trying to find the walk along the former east/west border which we had done many years previously. At the local tourist office we were given instructions of how to find a border walk starting from the nearby village of Sorge. There was a small Grenz Museum and an interesting 6km circular walk with relics from the time before German unification, watch towers, fences, concrete roadways, dog kennels etc., but it was not the same walk we had done before. Not surprising really as the Harz section of the Grenzweg is over 90 km long! However, it did bring back memories of when we were living in Germany during the height of the Cold War.
Overnight was in the old town of Halberstadt on the northern fringe of the Harz.
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Saturday 3rd October
A short drive back towards the Harz mountains took us to the UNESCO listed medieval town of Quedlingburg which had been in the former East Germany.
We first visited this charming little town just after the border opened. At that time it was very run down with many of the old buildings almost derelict. It looked like it was still in the middle ages! Now, almost all the buildings have been restored.
The town was founded over a thousand years ago and was a royal palatinate and a member of the Hanseatic League. We spent several hours wandering the narrow streets lined with picturesque half-timbered houses. Although closed for restoration, we made the steep climb up to the castle and church on the top of the hill. The stunning views across the red tiled rooftops and into the distance amply renewed the effort to get there.
Overnight was on a dedicated motorhome parking area just a stone’s throw from the main town hall square – expensive but worth it for the town centre location.
A short drive back towards the Harz mountains took us to the UNESCO listed medieval town of Quedlingburg which had been in the former East Germany.
We first visited this charming little town just after the border opened. At that time it was very run down with many of the old buildings almost derelict. It looked like it was still in the middle ages! Now, almost all the buildings have been restored.
The town was founded over a thousand years ago and was a royal palatinate and a member of the Hanseatic League. We spent several hours wandering the narrow streets lined with picturesque half-timbered houses. Although closed for restoration, we made the steep climb up to the castle and church on the top of the hill. The stunning views across the red tiled rooftops and into the distance amply renewed the effort to get there.
Overnight was on a dedicated motorhome parking area just a stone’s throw from the main town hall square – expensive but worth it for the town centre location.
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Sunday 4th October
After leaving the beautiful 0ld town of Quedlingburg we headed along the southern flanks of the Harz before we reached the town of Nordhausen. Situated just to the west of the town is the Mittelbau-Dora Concentration Camp Memorial. The camp was a subcamp of the Buckenwald Concentration Camp. It was at the Dora camp that V2 rockets were assembled within a vast network of tunnels following the relocation of the works from Peenemunde on the Baltic coast. The camp was eventually liberated by the Americans in April 1945. Nowadays only a few ruins and the outline of other buildings remain but the site is still a powerful reminder of the atrocities of World War 2.
After leaving the beautiful 0ld town of Quedlingburg we headed along the southern flanks of the Harz before we reached the town of Nordhausen. Situated just to the west of the town is the Mittelbau-Dora Concentration Camp Memorial. The camp was a subcamp of the Buckenwald Concentration Camp. It was at the Dora camp that V2 rockets were assembled within a vast network of tunnels following the relocation of the works from Peenemunde on the Baltic coast. The camp was eventually liberated by the Americans in April 1945. Nowadays only a few ruins and the outline of other buildings remain but the site is still a powerful reminder of the atrocities of World War 2.
From Nordhausen we had a frustrating few hours following numerous diversions due to roadworks before arriving at the motorhome parking in Bad Lauterberg only to find it closed! We drove onto Duderstadt and spent the night there.
Monday 5th October
We walked into the old town of Duderstadt this morning. Like so many other places in Germany it has maintained many of its medieval half timbered buildings, many of which had fine carved facades.
After a traditional lunch of bratwurst mit pommes we drove a couple of miles to the Borderland Museum at Eichsfeld. We immediately recognised that this was where we had done our border walk a few years ago. The museum was closed but we retraced the 6km circular border walk which connected 24 information points depicting how the area was guarded. These included trip wires, dog runs, electric fences and watch towers, all designed to prevent citizens of the former German Democratic Republic (1961 to 1989) from escaping to the west.
We returned to Duderstadt for our overnight halt.
Monday 5th October
We walked into the old town of Duderstadt this morning. Like so many other places in Germany it has maintained many of its medieval half timbered buildings, many of which had fine carved facades.
After a traditional lunch of bratwurst mit pommes we drove a couple of miles to the Borderland Museum at Eichsfeld. We immediately recognised that this was where we had done our border walk a few years ago. The museum was closed but we retraced the 6km circular border walk which connected 24 information points depicting how the area was guarded. These included trip wires, dog runs, electric fences and watch towers, all designed to prevent citizens of the former German Democratic Republic (1961 to 1989) from escaping to the west.
We returned to Duderstadt for our overnight halt.
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Tuesday 6th October
After a disturbed night as a result of very heavy rain hammering down onto the motorhome roof, we set off to our next planned stop – the walled town of Muhlhausen. The weather was still poor with intermittent rain so our exploration of the town was brief.
Muhlhausen is still enclosed by three kilometres of medieval town wall and the motorhome overnight parking was just inside the perimeter wall. This was a pleasant surprise as often motorhome parking is a kilometre or more from the town centre. With the weather as it was we would not have wanted to walk much further! The town itself was a hotchpotch of styles and apart from a number of fine churches the only other building of note was the town hall. Unfortunately this was encased in plastic sheeting whilst restoration work took place.
After a disturbed night as a result of very heavy rain hammering down onto the motorhome roof, we set off to our next planned stop – the walled town of Muhlhausen. The weather was still poor with intermittent rain so our exploration of the town was brief.
Muhlhausen is still enclosed by three kilometres of medieval town wall and the motorhome overnight parking was just inside the perimeter wall. This was a pleasant surprise as often motorhome parking is a kilometre or more from the town centre. With the weather as it was we would not have wanted to walk much further! The town itself was a hotchpotch of styles and apart from a number of fine churches the only other building of note was the town hall. Unfortunately this was encased in plastic sheeting whilst restoration work took place.
Wednesday 7th October
We woke to a very gloomy damp day. It was as well that we had planned to drive further south through the Thuringia Forest to Eisenach, the location of Wartburg where we hoped to visit the vast hilltop castle built in 1067. But the weather was poor and parking was a long way from the castle with shuttle buses taking you to the castle. It was very busy with tourists and we would not have felt safe on a crowded bus so decided to leave it for another time.
We continued on south towards Coburg. Again, we tried to find the location of two more stellplatze listed in our guide but failed to find them. Instead we stopped in the small town of Themarwhere the designated motorhome parking was next to the old town wall and the Hexenturm (Witches’ Tower). We had a short stroll round the town before the weather once again closed in.
We woke to a very gloomy damp day. It was as well that we had planned to drive further south through the Thuringia Forest to Eisenach, the location of Wartburg where we hoped to visit the vast hilltop castle built in 1067. But the weather was poor and parking was a long way from the castle with shuttle buses taking you to the castle. It was very busy with tourists and we would not have felt safe on a crowded bus so decided to leave it for another time.
We continued on south towards Coburg. Again, we tried to find the location of two more stellplatze listed in our guide but failed to find them. Instead we stopped in the small town of Themarwhere the designated motorhome parking was next to the old town wall and the Hexenturm (Witches’ Tower). We had a short stroll round the town before the weather once again closed in.
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Thursday 8th October
Another dull and damp day. We drove the short distance to Coburg and booked into the excellent well-organised motorhome overnight parking area.
We had to walk a short distance to the town’s indoor swimming pool (closed due to Coronavirus restrictions) to book in and pay for overnight parking. The receptionist gave us a map of the town.
From there we walked the mile or so into the compact old town centre. It was a pedestrianised area so we could wander at will through the cobbled streets and alleyways. In the marktplatz, a statue of Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg stands proud to remind visitors that this town was his home before his marriage to Queen Victoria. The Schloss Ehrenburg, his ancestral home, is located nearby in the heart of the town. Both the Town Hall and the Stadthaus are two grand structures that dominate the Marktplatz.
Towering above the town is Veste Coburg, a vast medieval castle which is reached after an ever increasing very steep climb of over a kilometre through the wooded Hofgarden. The origins of the castle date back to 1056. Now it is a hotchpotch of mainly medieval buildings, many of which are used to home art collections.
Another dull and damp day. We drove the short distance to Coburg and booked into the excellent well-organised motorhome overnight parking area.
We had to walk a short distance to the town’s indoor swimming pool (closed due to Coronavirus restrictions) to book in and pay for overnight parking. The receptionist gave us a map of the town.
From there we walked the mile or so into the compact old town centre. It was a pedestrianised area so we could wander at will through the cobbled streets and alleyways. In the marktplatz, a statue of Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg stands proud to remind visitors that this town was his home before his marriage to Queen Victoria. The Schloss Ehrenburg, his ancestral home, is located nearby in the heart of the town. Both the Town Hall and the Stadthaus are two grand structures that dominate the Marktplatz.
Towering above the town is Veste Coburg, a vast medieval castle which is reached after an ever increasing very steep climb of over a kilometre through the wooded Hofgarden. The origins of the castle date back to 1056. Now it is a hotchpotch of mainly medieval buildings, many of which are used to home art collections.
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Friday 9th October
We woke to yet another grey and dismal day so first thing in the morning we set off to our next destination – Bamberg.
The motorhome parking was by the park and ride but the buses were on strike. It was a long walk into the UNESCO listed old town. Here there was a mixture of architectural styles with the lavishly painted old town hall built on a small island being the most picturesque.
We failed to find anything we fancied for lunch so we walked back alongside the river to the motorhome. The weather was worse in the afternoon with intermittent rain showers so, after a very late lunch, we spent the rest of the day relaxing.
We woke to yet another grey and dismal day so first thing in the morning we set off to our next destination – Bamberg.
The motorhome parking was by the park and ride but the buses were on strike. It was a long walk into the UNESCO listed old town. Here there was a mixture of architectural styles with the lavishly painted old town hall built on a small island being the most picturesque.
We failed to find anything we fancied for lunch so we walked back alongside the river to the motorhome. The weather was worse in the afternoon with intermittent rain showers so, after a very late lunch, we spent the rest of the day relaxing.
Saturday 10th October
Today we started to head back west. Taking the scenic route we headed to the small town of Ansbach. Here the main road through the town was being dug up and the traffic was chaotic. Our satnav was hopeless as every road was closed. We eventually managed to find a route to the motorhome parking. For some time we had been able to see it but couldn’t work out how to get there!
Sunday 11th October
A short drive brought us to the charming town of Schwabisch Hall. We had set the satnav to take us to the motorhome stellplatz and stupidly just followed “Jane’s” instructions. We really should know better by now! She took us straight into the town centre and into the old town, down narrow one way streets heading for a low bridge. Fortunately as it was a Sunday traffic was light and we were able to extract ourselves without too much disruption.
Schwabisch Hall is a beautiful old town with many half timbered houses. It is partially walled with old town gate towers and narrow cobbled streets. Wooden covered bridges criss-cross the Kocher River. Everywhere was extremely quiet, the streets were almost deserted and shops, restaurants and bars closed. We managed to find a schnell imbiss that was open for lunch. We spent the afternoon wandering the compact town centre before heading back to the motorhome.
Today we started to head back west. Taking the scenic route we headed to the small town of Ansbach. Here the main road through the town was being dug up and the traffic was chaotic. Our satnav was hopeless as every road was closed. We eventually managed to find a route to the motorhome parking. For some time we had been able to see it but couldn’t work out how to get there!
Sunday 11th October
A short drive brought us to the charming town of Schwabisch Hall. We had set the satnav to take us to the motorhome stellplatz and stupidly just followed “Jane’s” instructions. We really should know better by now! She took us straight into the town centre and into the old town, down narrow one way streets heading for a low bridge. Fortunately as it was a Sunday traffic was light and we were able to extract ourselves without too much disruption.
Schwabisch Hall is a beautiful old town with many half timbered houses. It is partially walled with old town gate towers and narrow cobbled streets. Wooden covered bridges criss-cross the Kocher River. Everywhere was extremely quiet, the streets were almost deserted and shops, restaurants and bars closed. We managed to find a schnell imbiss that was open for lunch. We spent the afternoon wandering the compact town centre before heading back to the motorhome.
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Monday 12th October
Rather a disastrous day. The weather was poor, rainy, cloudy and overcast. Our map showed a scenic road following the River Neckar but we failed to find it. On arrival at our chosen stellplatz we discovered it was on grass down by the river. The dirt road down to it was steep and muddy. It was still raining heavily and we didn’t want to get stuck so we moved on. A shame as, in better weather, it would have been a lovely spot.
We drove onto Sinsheim where we encountered our first WOMO site. We’d read about them and were not impressed. On entry to the site you have to take a card before the entry barrier allows you access. You then load your card with cash. The card has to be presented for everything, water, electricity, toilet emptying, showers (which of course were closed). Every time the machine beeps it takes another euro! When you leave you have to settle up with the machine before it will let you out!!
Tuesday 13th October
We woke to yet another overcast day with low cloud and mist hovering over us.
It was with some trepidation that we drove upto the exit barrier and presented our card. Much to our astonishment we got a refund!
Our plan for the day was to cross the busy north-south autobahn by heading towards Landau where we would join the German Wine Route. This route took us through lots of pretty little villages along very narrow roads with fortunately little traffic. On reaching our destination of Bad Durkheim our satnav tried to take us down narrow side streets to get to our overnight halt but we were having none of it this time. A sound decision as the stellplatz was on the main road at the other side of the town centre, we just had to stay on the main road!
The parking area was huge, partly on grass with some gravel and many pitches were sloping. We managed to find a flattish, not too muddy pitch and got the last electric hookup. It stayed dry enough for a short wander into the old town centre, the sun even came out for a brief moment or two, but it quickly disappeared behind thick cloud.
Rather a disastrous day. The weather was poor, rainy, cloudy and overcast. Our map showed a scenic road following the River Neckar but we failed to find it. On arrival at our chosen stellplatz we discovered it was on grass down by the river. The dirt road down to it was steep and muddy. It was still raining heavily and we didn’t want to get stuck so we moved on. A shame as, in better weather, it would have been a lovely spot.
We drove onto Sinsheim where we encountered our first WOMO site. We’d read about them and were not impressed. On entry to the site you have to take a card before the entry barrier allows you access. You then load your card with cash. The card has to be presented for everything, water, electricity, toilet emptying, showers (which of course were closed). Every time the machine beeps it takes another euro! When you leave you have to settle up with the machine before it will let you out!!
Tuesday 13th October
We woke to yet another overcast day with low cloud and mist hovering over us.
It was with some trepidation that we drove upto the exit barrier and presented our card. Much to our astonishment we got a refund!
Our plan for the day was to cross the busy north-south autobahn by heading towards Landau where we would join the German Wine Route. This route took us through lots of pretty little villages along very narrow roads with fortunately little traffic. On reaching our destination of Bad Durkheim our satnav tried to take us down narrow side streets to get to our overnight halt but we were having none of it this time. A sound decision as the stellplatz was on the main road at the other side of the town centre, we just had to stay on the main road!
The parking area was huge, partly on grass with some gravel and many pitches were sloping. We managed to find a flattish, not too muddy pitch and got the last electric hookup. It stayed dry enough for a short wander into the old town centre, the sun even came out for a brief moment or two, but it quickly disappeared behind thick cloud.
Wednesday 14th October
This morning we drove in a roughly northern direction, along a scenic road to the Rhine Valley. We by-passed Bingen to drive along the west bank of the Rhine gorge – destination Bacherach, a pretty well-preserved small fortified town, marred only by the presence of a busy railway line running between the walls and the river.
We booked into the excellent motorhome stellplatz which was situated on the river bank. After lunch we walked into the town. It was still lunch break so most of the shops were closed. As the afternoon progressed the weather once again closed in so we headed back to the motorhome for the rest of the day.
This morning we drove in a roughly northern direction, along a scenic road to the Rhine Valley. We by-passed Bingen to drive along the west bank of the Rhine gorge – destination Bacherach, a pretty well-preserved small fortified town, marred only by the presence of a busy railway line running between the walls and the river.
We booked into the excellent motorhome stellplatz which was situated on the river bank. After lunch we walked into the town. It was still lunch break so most of the shops were closed. As the afternoon progressed the weather once again closed in so we headed back to the motorhome for the rest of the day.
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Thursday 15th October
Yet again we awoke to a damp, overcast day with no glimmer of sunshine. It really has been gloomy for far too long.
We followed the course of the Rhine north to the outskirts of Koblenz before heading to the valley of the Mosselle. This area has always been a favourite of ours, but this is a very busy region so we had little choice of pitch availability. We had been aware all this trip that there were far more German motorhomers around than normal. At this time of year many would have been heading for the sun to Spain, Italy, South of France or North Africa. With the travel restrictions due to Covid 19 many more are holidaying in their own country.
Luckily there was room on a site in Ernst where we have previously stayed. The stellplatz is on a vineyard with a small grocery shop, restaurant and butchers. We paid €10 for a site with electrics and the man gave us a bottle of wine. Amazing value!
Yet again we awoke to a damp, overcast day with no glimmer of sunshine. It really has been gloomy for far too long.
We followed the course of the Rhine north to the outskirts of Koblenz before heading to the valley of the Mosselle. This area has always been a favourite of ours, but this is a very busy region so we had little choice of pitch availability. We had been aware all this trip that there were far more German motorhomers around than normal. At this time of year many would have been heading for the sun to Spain, Italy, South of France or North Africa. With the travel restrictions due to Covid 19 many more are holidaying in their own country.
Luckily there was room on a site in Ernst where we have previously stayed. The stellplatz is on a vineyard with a small grocery shop, restaurant and butchers. We paid €10 for a site with electrics and the man gave us a bottle of wine. Amazing value!
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Friday 16th October
A drive of ten miles took us to the tiny, charming village of Ediger where we were lucky to secure a riverside pitch overlooking the Mosselle. The medieval village walls are intact and at each end of the village is a large tower right next to the river. Many of the buildings are virtually unchanged since they were built in the fifteenth century. It was a delight to wander the cobbled streets.
A short walk along the river bank took us to the adjacent village of Eller, equally old and equally beautiful. We wandered the village and returned to our motorhome through the vineyards which rise steeply up the hillside bordering the river.
A drive of ten miles took us to the tiny, charming village of Ediger where we were lucky to secure a riverside pitch overlooking the Mosselle. The medieval village walls are intact and at each end of the village is a large tower right next to the river. Many of the buildings are virtually unchanged since they were built in the fifteenth century. It was a delight to wander the cobbled streets.
A short walk along the river bank took us to the adjacent village of Eller, equally old and equally beautiful. We wandered the village and returned to our motorhome through the vineyards which rise steeply up the hillside bordering the river.
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Saturday 17th October
After a leisurely start to the day we went into the village to buy bread rolls for lunch. In the afternoon we walked around the outside of the village walls and up to a higher path through the vineyards. The views across the Mosselle river were stunning. We returned to our motorhome and spent another night at Ediger.
After a leisurely start to the day we went into the village to buy bread rolls for lunch. In the afternoon we walked around the outside of the village walls and up to a higher path through the vineyards. The views across the Mosselle river were stunning. We returned to our motorhome and spent another night at Ediger.
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Sunday 18th October
We woke up to the valley shrouded in mist. The outside temperature was only 5° C. On previous visits to the Mosselle Valley in October we had had fantastic weather – wall to wall sunshine and temperatures in the 30’s. Not this trip! We were glad to be on a stellplatz with electric hookup so we could use the heater.
A drive of just 11 miles took us to Zell and a pitch on a site we have previously stayed. From there it was a walk of just over a mile to the town centre on the other side of the river. After wandering around the town we stopped for bratwurst and pommes at a little imbiss beside the river. A tramp was loitering around and we were about to buy him his lunch but the lady running the imbiss took pity on him first and fed him for free. Perhaps the one good thing that has come out of this pandemic is the sense of community that has for so long been lacking in our society.
We walked further upstream to the next bridge, a footbridge only, and returned to the motorhome.
We woke up to the valley shrouded in mist. The outside temperature was only 5° C. On previous visits to the Mosselle Valley in October we had had fantastic weather – wall to wall sunshine and temperatures in the 30’s. Not this trip! We were glad to be on a stellplatz with electric hookup so we could use the heater.
A drive of just 11 miles took us to Zell and a pitch on a site we have previously stayed. From there it was a walk of just over a mile to the town centre on the other side of the river. After wandering around the town we stopped for bratwurst and pommes at a little imbiss beside the river. A tramp was loitering around and we were about to buy him his lunch but the lady running the imbiss took pity on him first and fed him for free. Perhaps the one good thing that has come out of this pandemic is the sense of community that has for so long been lacking in our society.
We walked further upstream to the next bridge, a footbridge only, and returned to the motorhome.
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Monday 19th October
The morning started with a little sunshine and only a few patches of mist over the hills. We continued further along the valley and, after stopping to buy food, soon reached the busy tourist centre of Bernkastel. Motorhome parking there used to be for 24 hours but is now limited to daytime parking only. We met a British motorhomer there, the only one we’d seen this trip. He had just come from Bavaria where the weather had been beautiful! Apart from a handful of Dutch the only motorhomes have been German. The centre of the town has many historic buildings but it was very busy and crowded.
The morning started with a little sunshine and only a few patches of mist over the hills. We continued further along the valley and, after stopping to buy food, soon reached the busy tourist centre of Bernkastel. Motorhome parking there used to be for 24 hours but is now limited to daytime parking only. We met a British motorhomer there, the only one we’d seen this trip. He had just come from Bavaria where the weather had been beautiful! Apart from a handful of Dutch the only motorhomes have been German. The centre of the town has many historic buildings but it was very busy and crowded.
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We found a stellplatz which was very run down with old style German electric plugs. We hadn’t used one of these for ages – we had an adaptor, in the garage back home! We decided to move on and drove a short way further before stopping for the night at Brauneberg. The overnight parking there is on a terrace with beautiful views down the river and across to the terraced line of vineyards beyond.
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Tuesday 20th October
Last night the temperature dropped to just 3° C and there was no sun to warm everywhere up this morning. A short drive further along the Moselle valley took us to Trittenheim, a small village set amongst the vineyards.
After lunch we walked along the river bank and up through the vineyards. The grape harvest is over so now the vines are being pruned. The weather feels more like winter than autumn but the brilliant colours of the vine leaves are a reminder that it is only mid October.
Wednesday 21st October
It rained on and off for most of the night but this morning was sunny for the first time for a while. We made the decision to head back along the valley to the village of Brauneberg where we had stayed the night before last. Once again, by arriving early, we were lucky to get a pitch at this small but very popular, picturesque spot.
In the afternoon we strolled through the vineyards into the village where we walked along the shady river path which was lined with walnut trees. By the end of our walk we had collected enough walnuts to give us plenty for Christmas!
Thursday 22nd October
A day of rest. The stellplatz is in such a beautiful position on the edge of Brauneberg, a typical Mosselle village, that we decided to stay for another night.
During the morning we strolled along the towpath into the village and noted that this evening there was a wine and food stall open. That is supper sorted! Back at the stellplatz we chatted to our Dutch neighbours. They had escaped home where Coronavirus was worse and were intent on staying in Germany as long as they could. They were within a day’s drive of home if they had to return quickly.
Friday 23rd October
We are back in the grey, damp weather where the mist hangs low over our backcloth of vineyards – a day to move on back up the Moselle valley.
At Bernkastel we stopped to stock up on wine, beer and spirits to take back home with us. Our overnight halt was back at Zell.
Saturday 24th October
First thing this morning we completed our shopping for favourite German food and drink. We then walked along the bank of the Moselle into Zell. Here we treated ourselves to a lunch of Zigeunerschnitzel mit pommes. The afternoon was spent getting the van packed ready for the start of our journey home.
Last night the temperature dropped to just 3° C and there was no sun to warm everywhere up this morning. A short drive further along the Moselle valley took us to Trittenheim, a small village set amongst the vineyards.
After lunch we walked along the river bank and up through the vineyards. The grape harvest is over so now the vines are being pruned. The weather feels more like winter than autumn but the brilliant colours of the vine leaves are a reminder that it is only mid October.
Wednesday 21st October
It rained on and off for most of the night but this morning was sunny for the first time for a while. We made the decision to head back along the valley to the village of Brauneberg where we had stayed the night before last. Once again, by arriving early, we were lucky to get a pitch at this small but very popular, picturesque spot.
In the afternoon we strolled through the vineyards into the village where we walked along the shady river path which was lined with walnut trees. By the end of our walk we had collected enough walnuts to give us plenty for Christmas!
Thursday 22nd October
A day of rest. The stellplatz is in such a beautiful position on the edge of Brauneberg, a typical Mosselle village, that we decided to stay for another night.
During the morning we strolled along the towpath into the village and noted that this evening there was a wine and food stall open. That is supper sorted! Back at the stellplatz we chatted to our Dutch neighbours. They had escaped home where Coronavirus was worse and were intent on staying in Germany as long as they could. They were within a day’s drive of home if they had to return quickly.
Friday 23rd October
We are back in the grey, damp weather where the mist hangs low over our backcloth of vineyards – a day to move on back up the Moselle valley.
At Bernkastel we stopped to stock up on wine, beer and spirits to take back home with us. Our overnight halt was back at Zell.
Saturday 24th October
First thing this morning we completed our shopping for favourite German food and drink. We then walked along the bank of the Moselle into Zell. Here we treated ourselves to a lunch of Zigeunerschnitzel mit pommes. The afternoon was spent getting the van packed ready for the start of our journey home.
Sunday 25th October
The clocks went back an hour but as we were awake we set off before 9.30am.
We took a scenic route across the Eifel region to the town of Duren where we stopped for the night. It had turned into a wet afternoon which made us feel better about our return home.
Monday 26th October
After a prompt start we continued our journey north to the Dutch border. Fortunately the autobahns were not too busy and we reached our planned destination of Rees before lunchtime.
Rees is a charming small town located on the banks of the river Rhine. This whole area, being very close to the Dutch border, requires foreign visitors to be tested for Coronavirus on arrival. As we had spent the last five weeks in Germany we were, however, exempt.
After visiting the Tourist Office we had lunch in a local café before setting off on the Town Trail. This took us along the Rhine embankment with its many defensive towers and then through the heart of the town.
The clocks went back an hour but as we were awake we set off before 9.30am.
We took a scenic route across the Eifel region to the town of Duren where we stopped for the night. It had turned into a wet afternoon which made us feel better about our return home.
Monday 26th October
After a prompt start we continued our journey north to the Dutch border. Fortunately the autobahns were not too busy and we reached our planned destination of Rees before lunchtime.
Rees is a charming small town located on the banks of the river Rhine. This whole area, being very close to the Dutch border, requires foreign visitors to be tested for Coronavirus on arrival. As we had spent the last five weeks in Germany we were, however, exempt.
After visiting the Tourist Office we had lunch in a local café before setting off on the Town Trail. This took us along the Rhine embankment with its many defensive towers and then through the heart of the town.
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Tuesday 27th October
The last day of our holiday. The day began bright but there was a bitter wind blowing off the Rhine. We were glad we had explored Rees yesterday.
We went shopping for fresh food to take us through the first few days of our two week’s self-isolation on arrival home. Our eldest daughter Fiona had arranged an on-line food shop for us and the freezer and food cupboard were well stocked. We found what appeared to be a tiny Edika supermarket but in fact went on and on, round corners and opening into more and more sections. Being so close to the Netherlands it had lots of our favourite Dutch treats. We bought large cheeses for ourselves, our family, friends and neighbours.
Wednesday 28th October
Set off early so that we could drive across the Netherlands to the Hook of Holland, without stopping and without getting out of the motorhome. We have a day cabin booked and will stay inside on our own for the crossing.
On arrival in Harwich we will drive straight home and start our two weeks quarantine.
The weather had been pretty awful but we had had a wonderful trip, visiting lots of our old haunts and reliving lots of memories. Most of all, we had managed to get away and we had completed a motorhome trip despite the pandemic. We had remained safe inside our own little bubble and enjoyed some lovely walks in the fresh air, exploring charming little villages as well as heath, forests and mountains.
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The last day of our holiday. The day began bright but there was a bitter wind blowing off the Rhine. We were glad we had explored Rees yesterday.
We went shopping for fresh food to take us through the first few days of our two week’s self-isolation on arrival home. Our eldest daughter Fiona had arranged an on-line food shop for us and the freezer and food cupboard were well stocked. We found what appeared to be a tiny Edika supermarket but in fact went on and on, round corners and opening into more and more sections. Being so close to the Netherlands it had lots of our favourite Dutch treats. We bought large cheeses for ourselves, our family, friends and neighbours.
Wednesday 28th October
Set off early so that we could drive across the Netherlands to the Hook of Holland, without stopping and without getting out of the motorhome. We have a day cabin booked and will stay inside on our own for the crossing.
On arrival in Harwich we will drive straight home and start our two weeks quarantine.
The weather had been pretty awful but we had had a wonderful trip, visiting lots of our old haunts and reliving lots of memories. Most of all, we had managed to get away and we had completed a motorhome trip despite the pandemic. We had remained safe inside our own little bubble and enjoyed some lovely walks in the fresh air, exploring charming little villages as well as heath, forests and mountains.
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