Nova Scotia
Sunday 12th August
Still dull and as the day progressed so the rain became heavier. We crossed back to the mainland by the bridge – it was poor visibility so the ferry ride wasn’t worth the extra it would have cost.
All shops were closed until noon on PEI so we headed first to Amherst in Nova Scotia for a supermarket. Walmart staff said we could park there but signs in the carpark stated otherwise so we decided to head on. The sat-nav mapping of this area is poor so we missed the road to the coast and ended up taking much longer in reaching the main coast road near Pugwash. From there we headed east and in Wallace found a layby on the coast – our overnight spot.
Monday 13th August
Another damp and humid day. We stopped at the Tourist Centre in Tatamagouche, a pretty little town on the southern shores of the Northumberland Strait. Here we filled the water containers and viewed the interesting display about Anna Swan, a 7ft 11in giantess who was a local girl.
We continued along the shore road but there was only a glimpse of the sea – scenery was not particularly inspiring. At Pictou we stopped to explore the Hector Heritage Centre. A replica of the ship “Hector “ was at anchor and a very well presented museum gave detailed descriptions about the early pioneers’ journey to the New World and the founding of New Scotland (Nova Scotia). Saw two motorhomes, one German one Swiss with stickers indicating they were driving the PanAmerica Highway but we didn’t see the owners so were not able to exchange travel notes.
Overnight at Walmart, New Glasgow.
Tuesday 14th August
Today we took the main road east to the Canso Causeway and onto Cape Breton Island. Scenery was mostly forest.
On reaching Cape Breton Island we headed into Port Hawkesbury to find a laundromat.
It was a hot and humid day again so we stopped at a look out parking area overlooking the sea. A local man in a pickup visited, said he owned the farm all around. His mother had given the land to the community for the picnic area and viewpoint. He said it was okay for us to park there overnight.
Another damp and humid day. We stopped at the Tourist Centre in Tatamagouche, a pretty little town on the southern shores of the Northumberland Strait. Here we filled the water containers and viewed the interesting display about Anna Swan, a 7ft 11in giantess who was a local girl.
We continued along the shore road but there was only a glimpse of the sea – scenery was not particularly inspiring. At Pictou we stopped to explore the Hector Heritage Centre. A replica of the ship “Hector “ was at anchor and a very well presented museum gave detailed descriptions about the early pioneers’ journey to the New World and the founding of New Scotland (Nova Scotia). Saw two motorhomes, one German one Swiss with stickers indicating they were driving the PanAmerica Highway but we didn’t see the owners so were not able to exchange travel notes.
Overnight at Walmart, New Glasgow.
Tuesday 14th August
Today we took the main road east to the Canso Causeway and onto Cape Breton Island. Scenery was mostly forest.
On reaching Cape Breton Island we headed into Port Hawkesbury to find a laundromat.
It was a hot and humid day again so we stopped at a look out parking area overlooking the sea. A local man in a pickup visited, said he owned the farm all around. His mother had given the land to the community for the picnic area and viewpoint. He said it was okay for us to park there overnight.
|
|
Wednesday 15th August
This morning we drove part of the Ceildh Trail up the western coast of Cape Breton Island. Much of the drive was inland through mainly forested regions. The beaches, when accessible, were sandy and picturesque, but parking was limited and there were no showers, toilets etc.
As we were nearing the National Park, we decided to stop early. We found beach parking at Margaree Harbour – a pleasant spot.
Thursday 16th August
Today we joined the Cabot Trail – a road round the northern tip of Cape Breton Island. It is one of the great drives of the world. Unfortunately we found it rather tame compared to other drives we have done. We had to pay to go into the National Park north of Cheticamp. The short section of coastal road was spectacular but much of the drive was over a high, eroded plateau, split by deep gorges and covered in spruce.
The weather deteriorated during the day, rain and strong winds, so we stopped by the harbour at Bay St. Lawrence for the night.
Wednesday 15th August
This morning we drove part of the Ceildh Trail up the western coast of Cape Breton Island. Much of the drive was inland through mainly forested regions. The beaches, when accessible, were sandy and picturesque, but parking was limited and there were no showers, toilets etc.
As we were nearing the National Park, we decided to stop early. We found beach parking at Margaree Harbour – a pleasant spot.
Thursday 16th August
Today we joined the Cabot Trail – a road round the northern tip of Cape Breton Island. It is one of the great drives of the world. Unfortunately we found it rather tame compared to other drives we have done. We had to pay to go into the National Park north of Cheticamp. The short section of coastal road was spectacular but much of the drive was over a high, eroded plateau, split by deep gorges and covered in spruce.
The weather deteriorated during the day, rain and strong winds, so we stopped by the harbour at Bay St. Lawrence for the night.
|
|
|
Friday 17th August
A very wild and windy overnight with heavy rain – we didn’t sleep at all well. When we woke the clouds were right down and it was still raining. Thankfully the wind had eased slightly.
We spent the morning dozing and being lazy. Later we went out to buy food for the day, then, as the weather was still poor, we stayed put on the harbour side for the rest of the day and night.
Saturday 18th August
A much brighter start to the day so we headed along a dirt track to picturesque Meat Cove perched on a ledge above the Atlantic – no room for us to park.
On our way back to the route of the Cabot Trail, we stopped at the supposed landing site in the New World, of John Cabot in 1497 – an exposed, windswept beach. Just before lunch we found a “Comfort” area with showers in the village of New Haven. The coastal scenery and settlements here were enchanting.
The remainder of the Cabot Trail drive was rather a disappointment – nowhere to stop for even a rest. Eventually we found a layby on the main road leading to Sydney – noisy and not ideal.
|
|
Sunday 19th August
A short drive this morning to Sydney, the largest town on Cape Breton Island. We spent the day doing jobs around the motorhome and shopping.
Overnight at Walmart, Sydney.
Monday 20th August
We woke to heavy rain, followed by a prolonged period of torrential rain – flooding and roads awash. A lazy morning – and afternoon was the result. We caught up on emails and texts. Later, a local couple came to chat with us – they want to ship a vehicle to Europe!
Overnight at Walmart, Sydney.
Tuesday 21st August
A much better day so we headed to the Fortress at Louisbourg, a Canadian National Historic Site. The site has been authentically re-constructed and, with the help of costumed guides, depicts life there in 1744. The site is large and only a small part of it has been excavated. A number of buildings are open to view and guides or audio tapes tell of the life of the inhabitants. Soldiers and guards roam the streets and children play games – it was all very well done but there was too much to see in just a day.
Overnight beside a tiny harbour at little Lorraine.
|
|
Wednesday 22nd August
Today we followed the Marconi Trail – it passed through some delightful fishing villages before reaching the town of Glace Bay. At Glace Bay we visited the Marconi National Historic Site, the place where he sent the first transatlantic message – very helpful staff. We spent the afternoon sat on a low cliff overlooking Dominion Bay – restful.
Overnight at Walmart, Sydney.
Thursday 23rd August
We spent most of today at the Highland Village Museum at Iona. It occupied a site overlooking the Bras d’Or Lake – beautiful views. The village buildings depict life in 1770s Gaelic Scotland, through the first settlements in Nova Scotia to the building of communities in the mid 1800s. In each house, a costumed guide explained how (they) lived at the time – a walk through the history of the settlement of the Gaelic pioneers from Barra, Outer Hebrides, Scotland.
We took a short ferry from the island back to the main road and overnighted on a river bank at Wagmatcook.
We spent most of today at the Highland Village Museum at Iona. It occupied a site overlooking the Bras d’Or Lake – beautiful views. The village buildings depict life in 1770s Gaelic Scotland, through the first settlements in Nova Scotia to the building of communities in the mid 1800s. In each house, a costumed guide explained how (they) lived at the time – a walk through the history of the settlement of the Gaelic pioneers from Barra, Outer Hebrides, Scotland.
We took a short ferry from the island back to the main road and overnighted on a river bank at Wagmatcook.
|
|
Friday 24th August
All this morning we spent at the Alexander Graham Bell museum at Baddeck – it was well laid out, well detailed and most interesting. From Baddeck we headed south, back to the Canso Causeway linking Cape Breton with the rest of Nova Scotia, stopping on route to see the canal and lock across the causeway. We then started to follow the Marine Drive along the east coast of Nova Scotia. Overnight at a lookout point – Prince Henry Sinclair Monument – at Halfway Cove.
Saturday 25th August
Today we took a leisurely drive further along the Marine Drive. Despite poor roads, it was a beautiful drive along or near to the seashore and passing through pretty fishing facilities. We passed only one shop all day and that one had no fresh food, so it is a camp meal tonight!
We stopped at a pretty beach and walked down to the sands. Overnight by a beach at Port Hilford.
Sunday 26th August
We spent the morning at Sherbrooke village. When the village population declined after a mini gold rush in the 1860s, many buildings fell into decline. These have now been restored and depict a typical Nova Scotia village in the 19th century. Costumed guides, many working on typical craft projects, explained each building.
All this morning we spent at the Alexander Graham Bell museum at Baddeck – it was well laid out, well detailed and most interesting. From Baddeck we headed south, back to the Canso Causeway linking Cape Breton with the rest of Nova Scotia, stopping on route to see the canal and lock across the causeway. We then started to follow the Marine Drive along the east coast of Nova Scotia. Overnight at a lookout point – Prince Henry Sinclair Monument – at Halfway Cove.
Saturday 25th August
Today we took a leisurely drive further along the Marine Drive. Despite poor roads, it was a beautiful drive along or near to the seashore and passing through pretty fishing facilities. We passed only one shop all day and that one had no fresh food, so it is a camp meal tonight!
We stopped at a pretty beach and walked down to the sands. Overnight by a beach at Port Hilford.
Sunday 26th August
We spent the morning at Sherbrooke village. When the village population declined after a mini gold rush in the 1860s, many buildings fell into decline. These have now been restored and depict a typical Nova Scotia village in the 19th century. Costumed guides, many working on typical craft projects, explained each building.
|
|
In the afternoon we headed nearer to Halifax, still following the coast road. Overnight in a layby at Spry Harbour.
Monday 27th August
Continued along the Marine Drive towards Halifax. Stopped at Lawrencetown Beach – paddled, then had a cold shower – a busy surfing area.
Overnight beside beach there.
Tuesday 28th August
A very wet day. We drove a short distance along the Marine Drive to Eastern Passage and Fisherman’s Cove – a restored 200 year old fishing village – quite interesting.
|
|
Next we headed into Dartmouth to book a time to clean the gas cylinder. Overnight at Walmart, Dartmouth.
Wednesday 29th August
We visited Fairview Cemetery in Halifax this morning – burial site of a number of Titanic victims – all very moving especially the grave of an unknown child (now identified through DNA).
|
|
After lunch we walked along the waterfront broadwalk – World Junior Volleyball Matches were taking place. Much warmer than when we were last here!
Overnight at Walmart, Halifax.
Thursday 30th August
In the morning we headed to Peggy’s Cove, stopping on route at Terence Bay at the “SS Atlantic” Heritage Centre. This told the story of the sinking of the ship. The landscape around Peggy’s Cove was very different to elsewhere – large granite boulders and little vegetation. Peggy’s Cove was very picturesque – harbour and lighthouse plus a smattering of houses circled around the harbour – a lovely place to wander.
|
|
Nearby we stopped at the memorial to the Swissair flight that crashed just off shore.
We met Kevin’s legs when we came back from shopping – he was underneath Nicolle inspecting her! By now we were well used to comments such as “Hey, what a cute little camper”, “Hey buddy, they put your steering wheel on the wrong side” and “Gee, it’s got a stickshift!”
But we also had many people who wanted to buy Nicolle, especially when we told them our fuel consumption – we often heard “Gee, my RV only does 8 mpg”.
Kevin reckoned we must be going home soon and he was keen that we should leave Nicolle with him. He invited us back to his home and introduced us to his wife Donna. He said we could park overnight on their land.
His house and grounds were huge. He'd wanted to buy his parents' house but they'd sold it before they died. So, when the house next door came on the market, he bought that, later buying an adjacent empty plot. A few years later he bought and moved into his parents' old house. He and Donna were surrounded by wilderness. Kevin was trying to tame it but he was clearly fighting a loosing battle!
He found us a suitable spot and fetched his chain saw to cut down a few trees to make more room for us! We had a swim in their pool which was very welcome.
Friday 31st August
Breakfast with Kevin and Donna. Donna had been busy baking bread, muffins and cookies for her WI group and was keen to receive comments on her efforts. We were even keener to respond! After breakfast we took a stroll to the sea, across a dirt track and down to their own private beach.
We then drove a short distance, still following the coast, until we found a layby at Blandford – stayed there overnight.
Saturday 1st September
We continued our coastal drive to Lunenburg .
At Mahone Bay we took a “postcard” picture of the three churches. Lunenburg was a much smaller place than I had imagined. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site that was originally planned on a rectangular grid pattern by the British who then invited German and Swiss Protestants who were facing persecution, to settle there.
The wooden buildings have a very distinctive architectural style and are brightly painted.
We strolled along the waterfront and through the historic streets.
We continued our coastal drive to Lunenburg .
At Mahone Bay we took a “postcard” picture of the three churches. Lunenburg was a much smaller place than I had imagined. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site that was originally planned on a rectangular grid pattern by the British who then invited German and Swiss Protestants who were facing persecution, to settle there.
The wooden buildings have a very distinctive architectural style and are brightly painted.
We strolled along the waterfront and through the historic streets.
|
|
Overnight by the water at Blue Rocks.
|
|
Sunday 2nd September
A rather late start as a British Cosmos tour group arrived by our overnight spot – some of the group were interested as to how we got here and stopped for a chat.
We returned to Lunenburg to wander through more of the lovely streets – visited the Knaut-Rhuland House Museum – a lot of very clear information about the house and development of the town plus information from the guide – an excellent visit.
We had lunch in a restaurant overlooking the harbour then went to view the restoration of “Blue Nose II”, a traditional schooner which was used as a racing yacht as well as for off-shore fishing.
We then went to the other side of the harbour for the “traditional postcard view” of Lunenburg.
We then went to the other side of the harbour for the “traditional postcard view” of Lunenburg.
|
|
We visited Blue Rocks Harbour then returned to our overnight stop back at Blue Rocks.
|
|
Monday 3rd September
We returned to Lunenburg to shower and fill our water containers. Our guide from the Knaut-Rhuland House Museum saw us there and came over to bring us some homemade cookies – delicious and very kind of her!
We then started to get Nicolle ready for shipping – emptied the gas cylinder – we had only bought one fillup and still had quite a lot of gas left!
We drove back to Mahone Bay and had a short walk there – nothing really to see.
Returned to layby at Blandford for overnight.
Tuesday 4th September
An hour’s drive back to Halifax, stopping at Pier 21 to try and buy Halifax and Titanic thimbles. When we were last there they hadn’t got the new stock in, now they’ve sold out! Very busy here today as the Disney ship was in.
Spent the rest of the day packing and cleaning the inside of the van.
Overnight at Walmart, Dartmouth.
Wednesday 5th September
A very, very wet day. We went to Canada Dream depot to have our gas bottle cleaned out - $100!
We then booked on to the Shubie Campground for the night. After completing our packing we took the two big bags to the airport. Spent the rest of the day tidying the van.
Thursday 6th September
Up early so we could do the last minute tasks to get Nicolle ready for shipping. First stop was the shipping office before heading for the docks – all went smoothly. We shared a taxi to the airport with a couple from the Netherlands, then a long, long wait until our flight at 23.45.
A delay of 1 hour meant that it was the next day before we actually left Canada!
[click] to travel to Our Adventures
[click] to return to Home page